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Old 02-17-2015, 02:04 PM   #1
geiser
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bell crank z-bar stud issue

Hello guys,

I have done lots of research here and have found some solutions to my needs, but would like some guidance on the things I couldn't find.

I have a 68 c10 (longbed). It came from factory with the 6 and a 3 on the tree.

PO put in a '75 350 in the rear position (6 cylinder). It still has stock bellhousing. The setup for the ball stud was the bracket between the 2 bosses on the block style with stud in middle.

I swapped it to a saginaw 4 speed and put in new clutch etc 2 years ago. ran fine.

I have completed an engine swap to a 70 350. Spun rod and the old 350 and it leaked everywhere needed redone. Easier to start fresh.

I am putting on headers now and am trying to relocate the ball stud to the rear most boss on engine and thread is different from the one I got from Inline tube (INL10936).

It is close but only gets into boss about 1 thread. when forced hard I can get another 1/2 rotation. I tried the ball stud in old block. same deal. any advice? I'm guessing metric stud and need to track down the old receipt check part numbers etc.

Has anyone ran into this before or is stud different through the years?

I also will have to notch the frame side stud mount and change lengths on the clutch rods. If anyone had details or pics on what they had to do I would appreciate.

Thanks,
Jay

Last edited by geiser; 02-17-2015 at 02:10 PM.
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Old 02-17-2015, 09:11 PM   #2
crazy longhorn
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Re: bell crank z-bar stud issue

The block should be threaded as 1/2"/13 NC...you might try screwing a 1/2" coarse thread nut on the onto the ball stud, see if it binds also? longhorn
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Old 02-17-2015, 10:41 PM   #3
marvgarr68
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Re: bell crank z-bar stud issue

On the 74 350 I first put in my 71 the holes were fine thread I think I used flywheel bolts in it at the time. There is a bracket that bolted to the block that had the ball stud welded to it. This was what was in my 71 and it was in the front holes not 6 position.
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1976 k20, 350 built, 44/14 axles
1968 c10 6.5 turbo diesel,t5 trans
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Old 02-18-2015, 07:45 PM   #4
crazy longhorn
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Re: bell crank z-bar stud issue

Quote:
Originally Posted by marvgarr68 View Post
On the 74 350 I first put in my 71 the holes were fine thread I think I used flywheel bolts in it at the time. There is a bracket that bolted to the block that had the ball stud welded to it. This was what was in my 71 and it was in the front holes not 6 position.
Not here to argue, but on a gen I small block, I have never seen a fine thread block pivot ball .....in the last 40yrs of playing? The V8 sb , mounted with 2 holes /bracket, & set the pivot ball tween the 2 bolts (67-72). In I 6 position, [I] prefer to run all of the sb clutch linkage[, but run a screw in pivot ball in the forward hole....adjust as needed? Longhorn
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Old 02-19-2015, 12:50 AM   #5
marvgarr68
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Re: bell crank z-bar stud issue

I know its strange but I just checked it again as it is in another truck that's automatic and they are fine thread. I have never found another like it that is why I thought the op had the same thing his is a 75. This is a car block not a truck.
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1976 k20, 350 built, 44/14 axles
1968 c10 6.5 turbo diesel,t5 trans
1977 gmc c3500 dually, crew, 4-53t, 5&3 trans
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=591188
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Old 02-19-2015, 01:15 AM   #6
crazy longhorn
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Re: bell crank z-bar stud issue

Quote:
Originally Posted by marvgarr68 View Post
I know its strange but I just checked it again as it is in another truck that's automatic and they are fine thread. I have never found another like it that is why I thought the op had the same thing his is a 75. This is a car block not a truck.
I should not say 'always, or never"....but here is a thought!? Some of the blocks had the bosses, but were not drilled....perhaps @ 1 point somebody drilled /tapped the bosses, & that could be what you are seeing? Any of the factory blocks, that I have been involved with (62-82 on the yrs), car or truck, have been 1/2 coarse thread on the block pivot ball. To the original poster, I would clean the threaded holes with a rifle brush, & shoot a little brake clean in em, as they may be plugged with grime/crud? Longhorn
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Old 02-19-2015, 08:20 AM   #7
homemade87
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Re: bell crank z-bar stud issue

I agree with longhorn . I have run 4 speeds for the last 50 years . Cars and trucks and have never seen a fine thread on a gm engine . Sounds like some one made do . Don't know where you would fine a pivot ball fine thread anyway .
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Old 02-19-2015, 10:28 PM   #8
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Re: bell crank z-bar stud issue

Quote:
Originally Posted by crazy longhorn View Post
I should not say 'always, or never"....but here is a thought!? Some of the blocks had the bosses, but were not drilled....perhaps @ 1 point somebody drilled /tapped the bosses, & that could be what you are seeing? Any of the factory blocks, that I have been involved with (62-82 on the yrs), car or truck, have been 1/2 coarse thread on the block pivot ball. To the original poster, I would clean the threaded holes with a rifle brush, & shoot a little brake clean in em, as they may be plugged with grime/crud? Longhorn
This is possible.
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1976 k20, 350 built, 44/14 axles
1968 c10 6.5 turbo diesel,t5 trans
1977 gmc c3500 dually, crew, 4-53t, 5&3 trans
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=591188
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Old 02-19-2015, 10:31 PM   #9
marvgarr68
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Re: bell crank z-bar stud issue

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Originally Posted by homemade87 View Post
I agree with longhorn . I have run 4 speeds for the last 50 years . Cars and trucks and have never seen a fine thread on a gm engine . Sounds like some one made do . Don't know where you would fine a pivot ball fine thread anyway .
You don't need a fine thread pivot ball if engine is in v8 position. The pivot ball is on a bracket and is held to the block with two bolts.
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1976 k20, 350 built, 44/14 axles
1968 c10 6.5 turbo diesel,t5 trans
1977 gmc c3500 dually, crew, 4-53t, 5&3 trans
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=591188
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Old 02-19-2015, 11:02 PM   #10
geiser
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Re: bell crank z-bar stud issue

well, again this is a brand new pivot ball and it will not thread into either of 2 engine blocks. I tried front and rear holes where the bracket attached. 1 1?2 threads.

threads on both engines and pivot ball look good (clean).

I guess i need to get a new pivot ball to be sure.

not a fine thread to be seen in all 4 holes and 1 pivot ball either.
this is why i thought it might be metric etc.

inline tube says its the right one.

going to napa to buy this tomorrow.
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...197_0373960421

Last edited by geiser; 02-19-2015 at 11:28 PM.
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