427 tall deck???? I need HELP!!!

[boraxman]

[Fitz]

Originally Posted by boraxman

Now that is funny!

[Ronnie the Wrench]

My 2 cents worth = run the numbers and make sure its a 427 and not a 366.

[rickpilgrim]

That Miata with a 5.3 should scream. My 5.3 burban comes on strong after 3000 rpm so in a Miata with a manual ......gone
572's are not in the yard care business budget and I know nothing about them personally but if your running 10's in that truck your in the 600's of hp or better. Very nice work you have there

[1971 cheburban]

Calm down guys just a 19 year old kid asking some questions, I really appreciate you guys taking your time and looking up stuff to help me, and I understand that you're trying to save me some money, but I'm going to go for the 427 tall deck if I Can get it. I have just a couple more questions, I can use regular BBC pushrods, right? And the motor mounts.... Or should I say the outer shell pieces, Can I use 2wd big block like from a 396 or 402(same difference) to mount this beast, and it takes the big block rubber piece that mounts to the block it self. Like a small block would, right. And the rods, I need them to be the .400 longer so I can use regular BBC pistons, so what is the factory length on the rods,and why pistons should I use, just flat top, I'd like it to be around 10:1 compression ratio, where it will still run on pump gas, are flat tops the best or should I go with a little dome or a little dish? Thanks guys for wveything and hopefully some can help me with these last questions

[1972RedNeck]

Originally Posted by 1971 cheburban

Calm down guys just a 19 year old kid asking some questions, I really appreciate you guys taking your time and looking up stuff to help me, and I understand that you're trying to save me some money, but I'm going to go for the 427 tall deck if I Can get it. I have just a couple more questions, I can use regular BBC pushrods, right? And the motor mounts.... Or should I say the outer shell pieces, Can I use 2wd big block like from a 396 or 402(same difference) to mount this beast, and it takes the big block rubber piece that mounts to the block it self. Like a small block would, right. And the rods, I need them to be the .400 longer so I can use regular BBC pistons, so what is the factory length on the rods,and why pistons should I use, just flat top, I'd like it to be around 10:1 compression ratio, where it will still run on pump gas, are flat tops the best or should I go with a little dome or a little dish? Thanks guys for wveything and hopefully some can help me with these last questions

Why not use the push rods you have?

Yes the motor mount bosses are in the same place as a normal SBC or BBC.

Pistons depend on your heads; there are open and closed chamber heads. If you want to run regular I have found that compression needs to be under 9.5:1 unless you run less initial advance.

[67 cst swb]

Why are you so sold on this tall deck build?
To keep a 427 crank in a tall deck block and increase rod length to go with a std deck piston. Be sure to watch the rod ratio.
Also remember that header and distributor fitment in the vehicle may become an issue as well depending on motor location in frame.

I would be more impressed to see you turn this tall deck build into a stroked tall deck strip/race motor than go thru all the work just for a street motor.
My opinion... keeping the 427 crank in a tall deck motor is worthless. you can change all the pistons and rods around you want and your still a tall deck 427, that you yourself already heard "everybody says that they aren't a good motor".
In my opinion... the only things a 427 tall deck motor is good for are
A) using the 427 crank in a std deck block (recommended)
B) using the block to build a 500+ stroked race motor
C) using the heads and all other pieces as boat anchors

I don't think you will like the performance compared to the efforts versus what you can achieve for the same money with less effort and having some patience.
I remember being 19 once... your going to do what you want anyway, but...
Id find a 454 block and a 396 crank as mentioned above, an avoid any tall deck venture. even if it costs a couple $100 more up front to find std deck stuff, you will save it in the end.

[1971 cheburban]

I thought you would have to use different pushrods because of the regular BBC intake and heads, and the main reason I'm set on this is because a true low deck BBC are very expensive around my area, and super rare, the local junkyards are picked clean all except these tall decks, and the guy who have them want top dollar, for example a guy had a 396 that was all boogered up, different heads, a junk late 70s intake for $1500, that had basically nothing done engine wise, factory rods and a bore job, so that's why I wanted to go with a tall deck,and I've located several parts like heads, intake and all that good stuff, so I've eliminated some of the cost right off the bat, but the new rods and pistons are going to get me, unless I can get some on scratch and dent at summit.i thank you guys, all Of the help is appreciated

[67 cst swb]

call a few machine shops. see what they have for bare useable big block std deck height blocks.
If you can get the 427 tall deck for the value of a crank... then go for it.
But the other fear is. no one cares about these tall deck motors, so its probably sitting outside in the elements. what are the chances the crank will even be good?

[1971 cheburban]

it's in a wrecker right now, so it should be okay, but I won't swear to it, I have to check it still, I'm actually going today to check it out so wish me luck

[67 cst swb]

Is it being used currently in the wrecker?

[1971 cheburban]

No, this junkyard it's in is in the building that a mine bolt company used to own, and thaws two brothers bought it and have a giant building that they keep a bunch of stuff in, and the wrecker is in the building and was parked in there for some reason, but they used it like 19 years ago to move a bunch of stuff from there old yard to the new one, and use it on and off in in the last 19 years but it has sat for like 5 or so years

[Fitz]

Originally Posted by rickpilgrim

That Miata with a 5.3 should scream. My 5.3 burban comes on strong after 3000 rpm so in a Miata with a manual ......gone
572's are not in the yard care business budget and I know nothing about them personally but if your running 10's in that truck your in the 600's of hp or better. Very nice work you have there

Thank you! The 572 is not inexpensive but it IS fun. The truck hit 550 HP on a chassis dyno so GMPP did not exaggerate when they claimed 620 for it.

The Miata is still in work but should be finished this year. If you did not know, it is the same wheel track, wheelbase, length and weight as the AC Ace and we all know what a guy named Shelby made out of that car. The 6 speed came out of a 2006 GTO and I teamed it up with the rear from a Cobra R with410 gears. I can't wait to drive it!

[1971 cheburban]

Just looks at the tall deck, it looks promising, full of oil, antifreeze is fool, but..... He wants $750, but then again it runs. And that is delivered too. But I have to gather up some funds and see what I can see when I get them together, also can I use a

[1971 cheburban]

Just looks at the tall deck, it looks promising, full of oil, antifreeze is fool, but..... He wants $750, but then again it runs. And that is delivered too. But I have to gather up some funds and see what I can see when I get them together

[1971 cheburban]

Sorry for the double post, I have a couple more questions, can I use a car style water pump, and alternator and all that stuff, or do I have to use the truck stuff, it doesn't really matter, but I was just wondering, while I'm at the junkyard I can grab it, if it's better. Thanks for you help guys

[rickpilgrim]

Yes you can use any big block chevy water pump BUT- the balancer is different on the tall blocks and to make the accessories work you can either buy pulley spacers and extend the alt lower bracket but the stock ps pump and brackets work but you have to move the ps pulley out about 1/4" for belt alignment.
If you change the balancer to the car 396/402/427 one all the belts line up but you still have to modify the lower alt bracket.
If you have some loose money there is a kit available for about $140 that consists of plates that allow you to use the 4.3/5.0/5.7 serpentine belt system from the S and c/k trucks if you can find used pulleys for the 88-98 454 truck along with the car balancer. I was to cheap to buy new for my 402 based engine in my 98 so that's what I'm doing for that and yes it does fit either the regular or tall block 366 for sure so it should do 427 also
Good luck

[1971 cheburban]

I noticed the water pump on it now has a huge hose running to the lower radiator opening, that's why I was asking to make sure I can get rid of that and use a regular pump and radiator

[rickpilgrim]

Yes it will work with the biggest brass 4 row or 2 -3 row aluminum you can fit. I also run a high volume water pump on mine and kept the dual thermostat intake with 2-180 degree thermostats. On the hottest day with my aluminum 2 row diesel radiator and engine driven 7 blade fan w/shroud towing our trailer I've never exceeded 190 degrees.

[rickpilgrim]

Originally Posted by Fitz

Thank you! The 572 is not inexpensive but it IS fun. The truck hit 550 HP on a chassis dyno so GMPP did not exaggerate when they claimed 620 for it.

The Miata is still in work but should be finished this year. If you did not know, it is the same wheel track, wheelbase, length and weight as the AC Ace and we all know what a guy named Shelby made out of that car. The 6 speed came out of a 2006 GTO and I teamed it up with the rear from a Cobra R with410 gears. I can't wait to drive it!

I know the Miata is small and light but did not know how close it was to the AC Cobra small block car. Just out of curiosity why the 5.3? There are 2 or 3 Escalades in the scrap yard here with the aluminum 6.0 motor, so with a 572 truck why not a 6.0?

[1971 cheburban]

What kind of exhaust is best with these, headers or should I get BBC exhaust manifolds and use those, just curious as to which is cheaper, I know the headers are a little tricky fitting probably but sound so good. And then again the exhaust manifolds might be a little tricky too, also the truck manifolds, if I take them off will that's have some weight? It's going into a c-10 but I'll put the big block front coils under but I'm trying to save weight.

[rickpilgrim]

If your going into a 2wd truck for performance run the truck 454 headers. The heads sit higher up on a tall block but on mine there was enough room for an "s bend" exhaust pipes to lower the exhaust away from the floor. If you run manifolds you still need custom exhaust so from a fitment standpoint run the headers IMHO

[1971 cheburban]

Last question I think. What car style 4 speed will stand up behind this engine. I'm thinking cast iron like t-10 but will a muncie, I'll probably use either if I find one but have heard muncies will lock between gears in high HP settings, but then again I imagine a t-10 would to with enough wear...... Anybody have experience with either of these behind big blocks

[rickpilgrim]

I know you have an opportunity to pick up those car trans for cheap but...
If it was mine I'd find the 88 and newer 5 speed from the c1500 5.7 truck. That way you can keep your rear gearing and still maintain a lower cruise rpm, and let the torque move you, as you have no more than a 3000 rpm power band in stock form. My motors manual says 4000 rpm is when the over rev light should come on and 3750 should be max governor setting. With the 5 speed you can stay in this range, have good performance and fuel mileage and decent reliability as long as no high rpm clutch drops.
My brother ran one in his 88 half ton with a crate 383 of about 400 hp towing a 16' trailer with compact tractor and hit 289000 before it went bad, rebuilt one made another 75K and sold the truck. He was not the nicest to it and it made it but for what your doing should be ok.

[67 cst swb]

The last 2 running tall deck 427's that I have heard about were only $250.00 each.
One was in Texas and the other was here in South Dakota.
So for $750.00, he better not only deliver it, but provide a guarantee that all parts are good, such as crank will clean up at np worse than .010/.010 and the block is not cracked.

Why is the guy getting rid of a running tall deck motor?