How to replace frame rivits - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

ozarkhippie · 07-20-2003, 09:56 PM

Awhile back someone posted this same question, and a reply was you can still buy the rivits. Since search is down I cannot find the post. If you can still get the rivits- where can you get them-How would you smash them.

lukecp · 07-20-2003, 10:01 PM

Just replace the rivits with a grade 8 bolt and lock washers....they will work just as well as a rivit, but allow you to take it apart much easier.

Project1970 · 07-20-2003, 10:24 PM

I second the grade 8 hardware - much easier to deal with.

Longhorn Man · 07-20-2003, 11:08 PM

Actually, i would go with a grade 5.
The grade 5 is actually stronger when it comes to side loads, the grade 8 is better for clamping ability.

Sammy · 07-20-2003, 11:19 PM

Constantly on this board everyone wants back to original condition which would mean replacing the rivets..Sounds like you would need what they call at least a 9X air riveter, the proper size rivets, and of course rivet head for the gun and a good heavy bucking bar. original rivet replacement if you needed to buy the equipment would cost a person about $300..(used)
Although other sources for rivets probally exist. One way would be to get diameter of the whole you want to fill and order thru a rivet supplier from someplace like US STEEL..or a company that deals in Aviation type fastners....So probally grade 8 hardware would be the cheaper route..

68C10 · 07-20-2003, 11:30 PM

If you look in one of the factory repair manuals I think it says something about replacing them with a nut/bolt that you tighten then heat to cherry and tighten again.
Kind of forget the details but I'm pretty sure it is in the chassis manual.

ozarkhippie · 07-21-2003, 09:49 PM

Thanks for the input guys. Sammy your info. is what I'm looking for. Who ever made the post before said they replaced all thier rivits with new ones and we were wanting to know how they smashed them.

crazy longhorn · 07-21-2003, 10:16 PM

a while back, one of the guys talked about using lug studs & nylock nuts to replace the rivets(Dually ,i think). At any rate, that would give you that stock look on the outside of the frame, & should be plenty strong(much cheaper also). I have used 7/16 x 1" grade 8 bolts, & pinch lock nuts for any pcs removed /replaced on my longhorn. I would stay away from lock washers, pinch lock, or nylock nuts will keep things in place better. also a good snug fit on the bolt hole is best. Good luck,crazyL

love it loud · 07-21-2003, 10:28 PM

i used 7/16 x 1" grade 8 bolts with pinch lock nuts and washers on each side

07-20-2003, 09:56 PM	#1
ozarkhippie Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Eureka Springs AR Posts: 494	How to replace frame rivits Awhile back someone posted this same question, and a reply was you can still buy the rivits. Since search is down I cannot find the post. If you can still get the rivits- where can you get them-How would you smash them.

07-20-2003, 10:01 PM	#2
lukecp Formerly yellow72custom Join Date: May 2001 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 7,531	Just replace the rivits with a grade 8 bolt and lock washers....they will work just as well as a rivit, but allow you to take it apart much easier. __________________ '72 Chevy C10 Mild 350/TH350/3.07. Ochre/White. Old high school ride. '70 GMC C2500 '62 327 4bbl/SM465/4.56-geared Dana 60. White/White. Project or parts truck. '97 Saturn SL DD. 1.9/5-speed. 40+ highway mpg

07-20-2003, 10:24 PM	#3
Project1970 14.1 @ 96MPH Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Mesa, AZ Posts: 2,811	I second the grade 8 hardware - much easier to deal with. __________________ Project1970 - LS1 Swap Complete!

07-20-2003, 11:19 PM	#5
Sammy Registered User Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Bonne Terre, Mo Posts: 3,005	Constantly on this board everyone wants back to original condition which would mean replacing the rivets..Sounds like you would need what they call at least a 9X air riveter, the proper size rivets, and of course rivet head for the gun and a good heavy bucking bar. original rivet replacement if you needed to buy the equipment would cost a person about $300..(used) Although other sources for rivets probally exist. One way would be to get diameter of the whole you want to fill and order thru a rivet supplier from someplace like US STEEL..or a company that deals in Aviation type fastners....So probally grade 8 hardware would be the cheaper route.. __________________ '69 Chevy Long Fleet & '71 GMC Short Step & Project "ODD BALL" "You can wash a pig, soak it in most expensive perfume. In the end it is still just a pig." ODD BALL build thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=478629"

07-20-2003, 11:30 PM	#6
68C10 Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Central New Jersey, USA Posts: 328	If you look in one of the factory repair manuals I think it says something about replacing them with a nut/bolt that you tighten then heat to cherry and tighten again. Kind of forget the details but I'm pretty sure it is in the chassis manual. __________________ 68C10 1968 C10 SWB No Options but 40K original miles 1967 K20 LWB 283 4-speed South Plainfield, NJ

07-20-2003, 11:08 PM	#4
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Actually, i would go with a grade 5. The grade 5 is actually stronger when it comes to side loads, the grade 8 is better for clamping ability.

07-21-2003, 09:49 PM	#7
ozarkhippie Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Eureka Springs AR Posts: 494	Thanks for the input guys. Sammy your info. is what I'm looking for. Who ever made the post before said they replaced all thier rivits with new ones and we were wanting to know how they smashed them. __________________ Buy Sale or Trade 71 3/4 4x4 72 1/2 ton cheyenne 4x4

07-21-2003, 10:16 PM	#8
crazy longhorn Fabricate till you "puke" Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ill Posts: 9,403	a while back, one of the guys talked about using lug studs & nylock nuts to replace the rivets(Dually ,i think). At any rate, that would give you that stock look on the outside of the frame, & should be plenty strong(much cheaper also). I have used 7/16 x 1" grade 8 bolts, & pinch lock nuts for any pcs removed /replaced on my longhorn. I would stay away from lock washers, pinch lock, or nylock nuts will keep things in place better. also a good snug fit on the bolt hole is best. Good luck,crazyL __________________ 69 longhorn,4" chop,3/5 drop, 1/2 ton suspension/disc brakes,1 1/2" body drop,steel tilt clip, 5.3/Edelbrock rpm intake/600 carb, Hooker streetrod shorties,2 1/2" exhaust/ H pipe/50's Flows , 6 spd Richmond trans,12 bolt/ 3.40 gears....

07-21-2003, 10:28 PM	#9
love it loud Calibration Engineer Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Windsor, Ontario, Canada Posts: 361	i used 7/16 x 1" grade 8 bolts with pinch lock nuts and washers on each side __________________ CANADIAN CONNECTION



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