Pre-Start Concerns... Gen 5 sat dormant for 3+ years

[bigmoe]

Is that where you are mounting the ECU? Doesn't look like you have very much for length with the harness but could you spin it 180 degrees to mount further forward and down more out of site?

[cornerstone]

Originally Posted by bigmoe

Is that where you are mounting the ECU? Doesn't look like you have very much for length with the harness but could you spin it 180 degrees to mount further forward and down more out of site?

Hey bigmoe, I was just setting it there while I got all the connections made. I did consider placing it in that general vicinity. Tonight I think I found the spot. What do you think about something like this? At the moment it’s just kinda held in place with zip ties, but I can make a bracket if needed. Do guys use any sort of insulators to reduce vibrations to the computer? Thanks for your response.
Brian

[cornerstone]

I ordered and installed the ICT 6L80e transmission line adapter to convert the connections to -6AN. I had hoped it not would not only solve the issue with fittings but also be thinner so as to give more clearance for my O2 sensor. It is a thinner piece than the stock thermostat housing, but now I have a different problem. The lower fitting is directly aimed toward the O2 sensor. I guess a 90 degree angled -6AN fitting will work.

[cornerstone]

ORiellys let me shop the back wall of radiator hoses. I found the perfect hose for the top and found a section of one that I could splice to the donor truck hose for the lower hose. One less thing to solve.

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by cornerstone

I ordered and installed the ICT 6L80e transmission line adapter to convert the connections to -6AN. I had hoped it not would not only solve the issue with fittings but also be thinner so as to give more clearance for my O2 sensor. It is a thinner piece than the stock thermostat housing, but now I have a different problem. The lower fitting is directly aimed toward the O2 sensor. I guess a 90 degree angled -6AN fitting will work.

Hey man, if that 90° works, great, but thinking of maintenance in the future, if you can't get that O2 sensor removed without having to remove the trans lines first, you may want to move the bung now while it's an easy task vs later. Just a thought...

I know how it gets man, your anxious to get it done

[cornerstone]

Originally Posted by TA_C10

Hey man, if that 90° works, great, but thinking of maintenance in the future, if you can't get that O2 sensor removed without having to remove the trans lines first, you may want to move the bung now while it's an easy task vs later. Just a thought...

I know how it gets man, your anxious to get it done

Ain't that the truth... A new bung is on the way, the weld in version. That is the best permanent solution. I think I can add gas and start her up today. Is it mandatory to have the O2 sensor in for grounding purposes? I guess I'll find out shortly!

thanks

Brian

[TA_C10]

Nope, o2 doesn't have to be plugged in.

[sprint_9]

I like the new location of the ecm alot better, looks like it belongs there.

Not sure if you have thought about it or not but one thing to watch out for would be headlight clearance and getting to the turn signal plug with the ecm mounted. The turn signal plug isnt a high use item but something to just be aware of.

[87chevy.com]

If you need to weld in a new bung and can do it yourself, an option that prob will work is just cut the collector tube and rotate it.. if you got the means to do so

[cornerstone]

No luck.

I had spark.

I had air. (After I took off the plastic bag off the air filter.) I didn't want a red air filter anyways. I thought I would be smart and try to keep it clean....It shriveled up like cold shower after a few cranks.

I did not have fuel in the cylinders. I had pressure at the rails so I figured the injectors are clogged, maybe even the runners are dirty from the valve coking situation that can happen with gasoline directed injected engines. Sure enough, when I took the fuel rails off I smelled bad gas, so I took the intake off and saw some of what sprint_9 had going on in his daily driver. It was almost as gunked up as his and needs attention and a catch can before it gets put into service.

I didn't really expect it to fire off without a hitch. It was still an excellent Thanksgiving day, they seem to get better with age. About 6:00 my brother in law and family came over, and he helped me with a second set of eyes when I tried to start the truck. After we determined the situation we went back in the house and played some guitar, bass and drums while we worked on some songs. We've got some talented folks in the bunch, it's all kinds of fun.

Thanks for the help and responses! I love your idea of cutting the collector tube and rotating it Clint. I'll have to review how TA_C10 welded stainless with his MIG. I do have a 3 in 1 combo Plasma/ TIG/ Arc welder now, but I'd rather not learn on my new full length headers, it could get ugly.

Would it matter if I moved the bung location back about another 6-8 inches? If I install it in the reducer it will be zero thought involved since it's just aluminized steel. I don't know if it's important for the sensors to be the same distance from the exhaust port.

Brian

[87chevy.com]

Do you have hp tuners?

As far as welding stainless with mig.. theres L408 I think is for welding mild to stainless... but I just weld it with regular mild steel wire and paint. It does get Crystal's on the inside but that can be ground out. They also make shielding paste to reduce and prevent that from happening.
As far as moving it back another 8 inches, maybe cause problems?? Not sure but ifyou did, I'd move both sensors so they are the same.

Clint

[cornerstone]

Originally Posted by 87chevy.com

Do you have hp tuners?

As far as welding stainless with mig.. theres L408 I think is for welding mild to stainless... but I just weld it with regular mild steel wire and paint. It does get Crystal's on the inside but that can be ground out. They also make shielding paste to reduce and prevent that from happening.
As far as moving it back another 8 inches, maybe cause problems?? Not sure but ifyou did, I'd move both sensors so they are the same.

Clint

I don’t have HP tuners. I probably should look into that, it’d be nice to make adjustments and try different tunes.

I think I’ll cut, rotate and weld the collector, like you suggested. That should be as easy as the other alternatives. I’m sure I have some scrap stainless I can practice on first.

Brian

[87chevy.com]

Originally Posted by cornerstone

I don’t have HP tuners. I probably should look into that, it’d be nice to make adjustments and try different tunes.

I think I’ll cut, rotate and weld the collector, like you suggested. That should be as easy as the other alternatives. I’m sure I have some scrap stainless I can practice on first.

Brian

Reason I ask about hp tuners is to make sure vats 1 and 2 are disabled before looking into replacing injectors.

[cornerstone]

Originally Posted by 87chevy.com

Reason I ask about hp tuners is to make sure vats 1 and 2 are disabled before looking into replacing injectors.

Supposedly that was taken care of when I had the computer modified.

Since I discovered the valve coking issue I will go ahead and clean up the runners and the valves. While they are soaking in cleaner, I'll look into the fuel rails and injectors that still had 4 year old gas in them that smelled like varnish.

I'm fairly confident their was no fuel getting into the cylinders since there was no smell of raw fuel from the exhaust.

Brian

[87chevy.com]

Ah.. did the fuel pump prime when you tried to start? If you only have 1 vats, and its disabled, it will not run. It doesn't turn on fuel pump module. (If your using the module). Had to flash a 2014 OS to it that had vats1 and vats2. Fired right up.. I wonder if you could ask your tuner to pull the tune file up and check while your soaking the ports.

[cornerstone]

I’m not using a PWM pump but I did have fuel 58 lbs. to the rail. I don’t have a tuner yet, do you have any recommendations in the DFW area?

[87chevy.com]

Stock gen5 pedal works fine with an adapter bracket. Got another gen5 swap with a 96 style diesel pedal that I was going to try but didnt know about it at the time of my purchase.
Clint

What regulator are you using?

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by cornerstone

I’m not using a PWM pump but I did have fuel 58 lbs. to the rail. I don’t have a tuner yet, do you have any recommendations in the DFW area?

Tuner. Check out LSX Unlimited south of ft worth. Those guys are great and they know everybody from where to take your driveshaft to where to find a part. They put my starter tune on my truck and I figure I will all them best place to get Dyno done.

[cornerstone]

Originally Posted by 87chevy.com

Stock gen5 pedal works fine with an adapter bracket. Got another gen5 swap with a 96 style diesel pedal that I was going to try but didnt know about it at the time of my purchase.
Clint

What regulator are you using?

I'll have a gen 5 gas pedal from a silverado you're welcome to if you want it. I needed a pedal with no offset so I got one from a 2012 Malibu and will make an adapter bracket.
I'm using a corvette style regulator. Its cheap, maintains 58 psi and sends the rest back to the tank.

Originally Posted by TA_C10

Tuner. Check out LSX Unlimited south of ft worth. Those guys are great and they know everybody from where to take your driveshaft to where to find a part. They put my starter tube on my truck and I figure I will all them best place to get Dyno done.

Thanks man, once I get it running I'll check them out!

[GerhardH]

Good Job Brian,
Very interesting to read, and never give up.

[mcmlxix]

Originally Posted by cornerstone

Tonight I think I found the spot. What do you think about something like this? At the moment it’s just kinda held in place with zip ties, but I can make a bracket if needed. Do guys use any sort of insulators to reduce vibrations to the computer? Thanks for your response.
Brian

Mitch from Swap Time in local to me.... I have a GEN IV LQ9 and decided to place my ECM in the same spot... I have a plastic ECM mount for it.

[cornerstone]

mcmlxix... When you had Mitch rework your computer, were the VATS disabled?

I'd love to see your mount design, can you post a picture or 2?

[mcmlxix]

Originally Posted by cornerstone

mcmlxix... When you had Mitch rework your computer, were the VATS disabled?

I'd love to see your mount design, can you post a picture or 2?

Mitch didn't build the original harness. It was from Motech before Mitch worked for Robbie. I need some adjustments in length and position... VATS was supposed to be disabled... haven't tried anything yet... still trying to get it all together...
The picture is sideways for some reason...

[cornerstone]

Ok, lets try this again... Since Thanksgiving I've been on all kinds of other projects and almost no truck time... Now that the world is in full freak out mode and my business is apparently "non-essential", I have some extra time available.

I picked up where I left off. I cleaned the crap off of the intake valves and runners, then installed a used set of stock GM injectors in that were sonic cleaned and flow tested. I do have spark, but still no start. My ground wire was on the thin side and started to melt after about 10 seconds of cranking, so I quit there for the night. I'll get a more appropriate gauge ground wire and try again tomorrow. I'm hoping that it didn't crank long enough to get fuel to the injectors. If that doesn't work I'll be clueless on what to do next...

Is the pedal supposed to actuate the throttle body before it starts? When I power up the system and depress the accelerator pedal I don't hear anything happening in the TB.

Is there a guru in the house?

[bigmoe]

You do have a heavy main ground from the batt - to the head? All grounds on the engine harness hooked up?