$2K for this engine? *time sensitive*

[Jahloha]

Team:

1970 C20 2WD here...

I was browsing KSL (Utah's equivalent to CL) and found a guy selling this crate engine for $2K (probably can talk him down a bit more too):

http://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Perf...oductId=749874

Has 0 miles and was dropped into his project car, but has to pull the plug on it.

I know he's asking for half the price of the list price, so its a good deal in that regard, but I just want to make sure I am a smart buyer, not a foolish one. Your input would help me in this department.

I am not a engine guru, so looking for experienced input.

Mahalo!

[leddzepp]

I assume that any engine I can't hear run is a boat anchor. My .02

[Jahloha]

Originally Posted by leddzepp

I assume that any engine I can't hear run is a boat anchor. My .02

I have set up a time to go check it out and hear it start up this weekend, if thats what you were referring to. But, if that all checked out, is this an engine you would consider LZ? Although unfamiliar with what parts I would need, I do know I would need to buy some additional parts for this engine to work; but seeing as I might get away with it at half the price, that would be 6s. Hope that makes sense. I see you all over our forum and I appreciate your insight.

[69moneypit]

Can't comment on the motor you're looking at but one of my trucks has a 350 crate 330 horsepower . Plenty of fun . I'm satisfied with it.

[cdowns]

alot of money to spend on a motor with no wannenty from an unknown seller with no history

[bigmac73]

if it sounds good and does not smoke, go for it , you need to ask him if he did the proper break in run on it ,and paperwork, get all the paperwork for the warranty ect ect.

[Jahloha]

Originally Posted by cdowns

alot of money to spend on a motor with no wannenty from an unknown seller with no history

Yeah tell me about C...he just bought the engine and installed it. The car is at his sisters home, in her garage, but he has since moved out of state. So it sounds like his sister is forcing the sale, especially since were into the cold months.

What would make you comfortable to buy an engine under this circumstance?

Originally Posted by bigmac73

if it sounds good and does not smoke, go for it , you need to ask him if he did the proper break in run on it ,and paperwork, get all the paperwork for the warranty ect ect.

BigMac...do you know if these warranties can transfer names?

[Evaded]

Well I dont know about Utah, but here in Texas id say watch your ass. Down here you have to be really careful not to get robbed. Id take at least two buddies with you and tell him your not bringing cash with you. Thats my advice. As far as the motor, if it runs and doesnt smoke no knocks or leaks, buy it.

Eric (Evaded)

[Jahloha]

Originally Posted by Evaded

Well I dont know about Utah, but here in Texas id say watch your ass. Down here you have to be really careful not to get robbed. Id take at least two buddies with you and tell him your not bringing cash with you. Thats my advice. As far as the motor, if it runs and doesnt smoke no knocks or leaks, buy it.

Eric (Evaded)

Haha! I know what you mean; this is when it pays to be the smallest in my family at 6'4" and 280 lbs. We turn heads for sure. But i agree, safety first

[In The Ten Ring]

Speaking of a possible robbery, you might want to remember that friend on your side and no I'm not talking about your cell phone. Then again, if one has to be reminded of that, they probably don't have such friends.

[geezer#99]

Originally Posted by Jahloha

Yeah tell me about C...he just bought the engine and installed it. The car is at his sisters home, in her garage, but he has since moved out of state. So it sounds like his sister is forcing the sale,

So he's out of state and his sister is selling it. Does it even belong to her?
Keep your money in your pocket, buy one with a warranty like this one from Summit. Add your own intake, carb etc and you'll be money ahead.
You can use your stock stuff now and upgrade later too.
http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...7353/overview/

[davepl]

Any engine that you cannot test while running, do a leakdown and compression test on is worth about $250, which is the scrap price for cast iron.

The motor as a product is fine, and would be good for your truck. I just think the whole deal looks a little shaky.

Don't rush. The motor's not going anywhere in a hurry.

[Bigdav160]

Can you get the original receipt? I bet the engine has a warranty that would be honored at a Chevrolet dealership.

The engine the OP linked to is way better than the other engine link. $2K doesn't sound bad if it's legit.

[CastIron]

I bought a 300hp crate motor (different heads than the one shown) around 1998 and it's been a great engine. I'm pretty sure I paid about $2000 for it from the local Chevrolet dealer. It was a long block only, no intake or distributor. If the engine was like new, I wouldn't hesitate to buy another one.
The other motor linked above is just a base model 350. (the old Targetmaster, made in Mexico I believe) They aren't a bad engine, and they do run on 87 octane. They aren't really a high performance engine, but fine for a daily driver. The 330 hp 350 runs on premium only. Anything less and it will ping. The 330 hp engine also has a 1 piece rear main seal, and center bolt valve covers, both of which means they are less likely to leak oil. They do require a different flexplate/flywheel, so if you buy from this guy make sure you get that too.

[bbcmudtruck]

IDK man. I don't think I'd give that kind of money for that little of a motor. If its truly brand new and never been fired, I'd go no more than 1500. But I'm hard pressed on spending that kind of money on a crate motor, especially one that small. For 2k you could easily rebuild your motor and know exactly what you have. Assuming your heads are good, you have an intake and carb, you could build a budget 383 for right at 2k. On the other hand, I'm a big block guy and would go with a 496 every day of the week over spending money on a 350 rebuild!

[ulakovic22]

So 2K for a complete running motor, air filter to pan with accessories? That's a decent deal if everything checks out. The only reason I would be concerned is because you are not mechanically inclined and cracking open a used motor to check it out doesn't sound like something you would be comfortable doing. Ultimately buying a used motor is a crap shoot. What motor do you have now and why aren't you rebuilding it?

[Jahloha]

Originally Posted by davepl

Any engine that you cannot test while running, do a leakdown and compression test on is worth about $250, which is the scrap price for cast iron.

The motor as a product is fine, and would be good for your truck. I just think the whole deal looks a little shaky.

Don't rush. The motor's not going anywhere in a hurry.

Good solid advice, something my Gramps would give me. Thats a compliment to you sir.

Originally Posted by Bigdav160

Can you get the original receipt? I bet the engine has a warranty that would be honored at a Chevrolet dealership.

The engine the OP linked to is way better than the other engine link. $2K doesn't sound bad if it's legit.

I had asked him that, he gets back in town this weekend and will look for receipt. If Chevy would honor the warranty, it would better the deal.

Originally Posted by CastIron

I bought a 300hp crate motor (different heads than the one shown) around 1998 and it's been a great engine. I'm pretty sure I paid about $2000 for it from the local Chevrolet dealer. It was a long block only, no intake or distributor. If the engine was like new, I wouldn't hesitate to buy another one.
The other motor linked above is just a base model 350. (the old Targetmaster, made in Mexico I believe) They aren't a bad engine, and they do run on 87 octane. They aren't really a high performance engine, but fine for a daily driver. The 330 hp 350 runs on premium only. Anything less and it will ping. The 330 hp engine also has a 1 piece rear main seal, and center bolt valve covers, both of which means they are less likely to leak oil. They do require a different flexplate/flywheel, so if you buy from this guy make sure you get that too.

Yeah, we are on the same page with the flexplate/flywheel. He has it in a Chevy car, would these two items be the same for our trucks?

Originally Posted by bbcmudtruck

IDK man. I don't think I'd give that kind of money for that little of a motor. If its truly brand new and never been fired, I'd go no more than 1500. But I'm hard pressed on spending that kind of money on a crate motor, especially one that small. For 2k you could easily rebuild your motor and know exactly what you have. Assuming your heads are good, you have an intake and carb, you could build a budget 383 for right at 2k. On the other hand, I'm a big block guy and would go with a 496 every day of the week over spending money on a 350 rebuild!

Yeah, I am sending the original motor (over 500k miles, with only one overhaul) to the machinist this week. I definitely would be inclined to build up a 383 for the added torque, although my 4.10 rearend does just fine in that department.

Originally Posted by ulakovic22

So 2K for a complete running motor, air filter to pan with accessories? That's a decent deal if everything checks out. The only reason I would be concerned is because you are not mechanically inclined and cracking open a used motor to check it out doesn't sound like something you would be comfortable doing. Ultimately buying a used motor is a crap shoot. What motor do you have now and why aren't you rebuilding it?

Yeah, I am new to engines. I can tear one down and piece it together, but not saavy enough to see something and be able to see warning signs. Thats why I am taking a good mechanic friend to check it out.

My main concern is, if the machinist says I cant rebuild on my current block, I want to have some backup plans; but that also is making things worse haha. I am studying up on crate engines, building up a 350 to 383, etc.

[bigmac73]

Originally Posted by Jahloha

Yeah tell me about C...he just bought the engine and installed it. The car is at his sisters home, in her garage, but he has since moved out of state. So it sounds like his sister is forcing the sale, especially since were into the cold months.

What would make you comfortable to buy an engine under this circumstance?



BigMac...do you know if these warranties can transfer names?

usually the sellers like (summit or jegs) have nothing to do with the warranty, you have to go back to the manufacture, and register with them , so if he never did that then the warranty has not be activated. I know with blueprint you have to register on line, summit does not get involved with warranty issues, they just sale the product

[CC69Rat]

I have been burned by the GMPP warranty situation personally. As it turns out the engines are not warrantied unless they are installed by a GM Dealer and an ASE certified mechanic.

http://static.speedwaymotors.com/pdf...e-Warranty.pdf


Not saying they haven't been serviced or warrantied anywhere in the past, I am just saying the guy I had to deal with knew about the loop hole in the warranty and it wasn't honored.

350/290hp long block, bad valve seals with about 200 miles on the engine. Apparently the OC in the plant didn't notice the fact they had used 4.3L V6 seals in this engine. There was a bad batch of them years ago and I guess I happened to get one. (of course)

.. just bringing it to light, the warranty is not all it's cracked up to be.

[67ChevyRedneck]

Originally Posted by CC69Rat

I have been burned by the GMPP warranty situation personally. As it turns out the engines are not warrantied unless they are installed by a GM Dealer and an ASE certified mechanic.

http://static.speedwaymotors.com/pdf...e-Warranty.pdf


Not saying they haven't been serviced or warrantied anywhere in the past, I am just saying the guy I had to deal with knew about the loop hole in the warranty and it wasn't honored.

350/290hp long block, bad valve seals with about 200 miles on the engine. Apparently the OC in the plant didn't notice the fact they had used 4.3L V6 seals in this engine. There was a bad batch of them years ago and I guess I happened to get one. (of course)

.. just bringing it to light, the warranty is not all it's cracked up to be.

This has been brought up before. If YOU do the install at home, it's highly recommended you have the install inspected by a local GM dealer. They should be able to verify that the engine runs well and at what mileage it was installed. Then just keep your oil change receipts until the warranty is up.

Sorry for the bad luck. I plan on buying one of these somewhat soon. Honestly, I don't blame GM for that, there are a lot of people out that there that think they know what they're doing, but they don't. Sucks for the rest of us.

THIS WARRANTY DOES NOT COVER:
• Damage due to improper installation, negligence, alteration, accident, improper use, or any use related
to racing, track or competition. Proper vehicle use is discussed in the vehicle Owner’s Manual. In
addition, coverage does not apply if the odometer has been disconnected or the mileage reading has
been altered.
• Damage caused by lack of proper maintenance as described in the vehicle’s original Owner’s Manual/
Maintenance Schedule, failure to follow Maintenance Schedule intervals, or failure to use or maintain
proper type and levels of fluid, fuel, oil, and lubricants recommended in the Owner’s Manual/
Maintenance Schedule. Proof of proper maintenance is the owner’s responsibility.

[CC69Rat]

Just the way my luck goes I guess. 9 million engines in a whse at Summit, 1 bad one. that's the one I'll get every time. I'd buy another one though. Just saying, have all your ducks in a row and maybe a buddy at the local GM dealership that will sign off for the warranty.

The 290 HP engine ($1700 or so if you shop around) is pretty stout and it hit a pretty good lick .. but it just had 4.3 valve seals in it. Bizarre error at the plant. I bet the 330HP is a nasty little crate motor.

[Jahloha]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

This has been brought up before. If YOU do the install at home, it's highly recommended you have the install inspected by a local GM dealer. They should be able to verify that the engine runs well and at what mileage it was installed. Then just keep your oil change receipts until the warranty is up.

Sorry for the bad luck. I plan on buying one of these somewhat soon. Honestly, I don't blame GM for that, there are a lot of people out that there that think they know what they're doing, but they don't. Sucks for the rest of us.

Yeah, I have been made aware of the GM warranty qualifications. I called GMPP and they said it cannot transfer names, once the engine is installed. So that is a deal breaker, unless I get it for sub $1K. But even then, I feel safer just buying my own, and new.

Originally Posted by CC69Rat

I have been burned by the GMPP warranty situation personally. As it turns out the engines are not warrantied unless they are installed by a GM Dealer and an ASE certified mechanic.

http://static.speedwaymotors.com/pdf...e-Warranty.pdf


Not saying they haven't been serviced or warrantied anywhere in the past, I am just saying the guy I had to deal with knew about the loop hole in the warranty and it wasn't honored.

350/290hp long block, bad valve seals with about 200 miles on the engine. Apparently the OC in the plant didn't notice the fact they had used 4.3L V6 seals in this engine. There was a bad batch of them years ago and I guess I happened to get one. (of course)

.. just bringing it to light, the warranty is not all it's cracked up to be.

Sorry to hear your story, that sucks. But a positive sign youd still buy another GM.

[67ChevyRedneck]

Originally Posted by Jahloha

Yeah, I have been made aware of the GM warranty qualifications. I called GMPP and they said it cannot transfer names, once the engine is installed. So that is a deal breaker, unless I get it for sub $1K. But even then, I feel safer just buying my own, and new.

Not according to their own warranty info?

DOCUMENTATION REQUIREMENTS:
The GM dealer or independent service center must be furnished with the purchaser’s original repair order
or sales slip (or dealer’s photo copy). This warranty is transferable to subsequent owners by providing
the above required documents to any purchaser of the vehicle in which the assembly/component was
originally installed.

[GASoline71]

Funny thing is... a 350 can be built for a tad under 2 grand and make 1hp per cubic inch or more.

Gary

[Hook'em]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

Not according to their own warranty info?

Yeah, but he's not buying the vehicle - just the engine.