70 K10 brake upgrade

[Mav]

Would like to improve braking on my 70 K10 without going to discs. Looking at Brothers power brake conversion (KORN 772). Have 383 stroker w/4 spd., otherwise stock. Have not checked vacuum yet, just looking for info on going this route, if anybody has done similar upgrade any help/advice is appreciated. thanks,Mav

[69gmcc10]

GM made a HD rear brake for the 1/2 ton trucks in the mid 70s. They increased the shoe and drum width from 2" to 2 3/4". the conversion is easy, but you need to track down some HD backing plates in order for it to work because they recess the drum over the axle an extra 3/4". I did this to my 69 2wd GMC and it worked well, Just another idea to add to your power brakes.

[Mav]

Hey thanks, thought I would try the vacuum booster first and see how much improvement I get, if that isnt adequate will look into your suggestion. Appreciate the post Mav

[PGSigns]

Also look at putting good quality brake shoes in it it. It does make a difference. The power brakes should help a lot. If you don't have enough manifold vacuum there is also the hydro boost route.
Jimmy

[Mav]

Ok, recently put new shoes on, and there wasnt much available as far as selection, but I didnt "turn over every rock" as far as looking either. Do you know of anyplace that has more than the standard replacement? Am leaning toward the 11 in. Delco vacuum can because it would not stick out in engine compartment as much as others, do you know approx. what vacuum is needed for this setup? thanks Mav

[dennislbrooks]

Disc on front and a power brake booster ( with proportioning valve ) vaccuum or hydroboost is about the only way I found to run with the newer vehicles in traffic. About any gm 10 bolt or dana 44 from GM 71 - 87 with matching rear gear. An 88 Blazer works also.

[Mav]

Ok thanks a lot, have a Dana 44 w/3.07 gears, (if I went front disc entire front axle housing would have to be swapped?) Thought I would put booster on first and try it, then if not satisfied I could start hunting for a 3.07 disc setup. Proportioning valve is only thing I might have to buy twice, correct? thanks, appreciate reply, Mav

[dennislbrooks]

I have a 3.07 front axle - does you no good - but should not be hard to find. Swap gives you open knuckles instead of your closed ones and allows use of easier to get aftermarket oem parts. You will only need a proportioning valve if you go to disc and then not use your present shuttle valve.

I have a 88 Blazer Corporate 10 bolt in my 67 with 3.73 gears.

[Mav]

Ok , was looking at booster/mstr. cyl. and there are 3 choices (disc/disc, disc/drum, and drum/drum). Thought prop. valve was only difference, wrong?

[dennislbrooks]

Well, disc drum is a nice setup and will retain your existing emergency brake. I have disc/disc and they work fine but now only have a parking brake -uses camaro calipers on back that will not hold like a drum emrgency brake.

If I had a do over I would have kept the rear drums and spent the money on something else. I run a 9.5 14 bolt on rear but still my truck is a driver to events, not a daily driver. I run hydroboost and love it but vacuum boosted brakes work good also if you have enough vacuum.

If you get the disc/drum setup then you will need to put disc on the front. I belive that unless you want to keep a bone stocker, you will eventually go to disc on the front.

[Mav]

Yeah, not concerned about bone stock, but want to stay daily driver. Vortec iron heads maybe, but not sure there is exhaust manifold that is compatible with cross shaft for clutch. So if I got drum/drum booster and later wanted to go with disc/drum, I would need 3.07 front end from 1973 to ????, and I would have to change mstr. cyl. ? Or not? Plus get disc/drum proportioning valve? thanks Mav

[franken]

Sorry, but...
Rear brakes do ~25% braking. In OR, 73 and up to whenever D44 disc front diffs are probably all over the place. It's also a pretty much bolt in swap as well.