Going to look at a Jimmy

[hevy_chevy67]

Hey all, I'm possibly going to look a 70 Jimmy this weekend. Owner claims it is very rust free and original but I'm planning on doing a good look over but I'm not very familiar with them. Any problem areas I should look over really good? Problem areas on the top? Thanks in advance.

[Southcity]

I am no expert on these trucks but I love them. Try to bring someone with you that has as much if not more knowledge than you to provide a second set of eyes. Perhaps bring a magnet to place on the body in any known rust areas or anywhere on the body really. Take lot's of pics so you can view them after seeing the truck in person. Maybe ask to see what kind of documentation the owner has (if any). Keep us posted and good luck!

[Thealien]

You can see a lot of the trouble areas without a lot of trouble.

Even with carpet you can pull it up by the kick panel on both sides. They tend to rot/rust right where the floor meets the kick panel.

If they will let you unscrew the sill plates and carpet strips, the recess behind the sill plate is one of the places that rust.

Can you see the door seams or are they covered in bondo?

What does the bottom of the tailgate look like?

Stick your head and a flash light in the rear wheel well and look forward, you can see most of the inside front rear quarter and B pillar looking forward.

Behind the rear wheel you can see the back of the quarter.

Under battery radiator support, fender bottom, and wheel well

From underneath check the torque boxes, the bottom of the rear floor, top of the shock mounts, all the crossmembers where the seats are mounted.

If all those areas look good I would be happy. If some of those area are bad or look hacked you have to decide if you are willing to accept or fix.

Good luck

[Southcity]

It's folks like "Thealien" that make this forum great!

[lks dcvn]

Lots to check for if you are looking at the truck 'in person' - as I don't normally have that luxury and have bought trucks from across the country:

Working front to back:

• lower front fender cups - these rust out at the lowest part
• front frame horns - check to see if the bolt holes/horns tweaked as these rigs have a tendency of being beat up a bit
• battery tray area - under this the acid rots the core support
• inner front fenders - these rust out around the holes and where it bolts to the core support
• firewall - check near the heater/AC box - as these can rust out from moisture/junk in the cowl
• windshield frame outside/inside - they DO NOT make replacement windshield frames so this area is critical
• kick panels/lower A-pillar/front floor - check for weak metal or signs of patching
• inner/outer floor area - including exterior rocker
• torsion box (area under door jam) - this is a key structural area of the truck
• B-pillar - this is the most prone to rust as you have 7 parts that come together here.
• Lower bedside - Just behind the door on both sides is where the rust will show on the body - this is a pain and $$$ to fix correctly
• cargo floor - rust near the rear wheel tubs and floor or inner bedside - also near where the floor and tailgate meet (due to poorly sealing hatch)
• rear splash shields - found behind the rear tires- these take a beating from water/dirt/rocks/etc.
• tailgate - bottom where it meets cargo floor
• hatch - check to see if it opens and can lock/hold itself up
• hatch - check to see if it can close/latch and not rattle
• top - check for large cracks, holes, chipped material - these trucks are not water tight - so keep that in mind if you are storing it outside

Good luck - I've learned a LOT by looking at the build threads in the Blazer section - if you want to see where rust can hide - feel free to review a prior build post of mine here from a few years ago.

You can easily overpay for a rusty truck if you don't know where to look and then get it home to make 'quick fixes' and find surprises (that usually are the tip of the iceberg).

[jaros44sr]

Make sure the numbers match the title and the ID plate is held on with rosset rivets
And all of the above along with a compression test if possible

[DeadheadNM]

If possible, post up any photos you presently have of the Jimmy so we can eyeball any potential issues beforehand.

Also, bring a thin, flexible refrigerator magnet and run it across the sheet metal to identify areas of body filler where the magnet won’t adhere.

[hevy_chevy67]

Thanks for the suggestions everyone.

I'm kind of on the fence of going to look at it because its a fair drive, but damn do I ever want a Blazer or Jimmy and they are impossible to find up here. The guys asking price was too high, but I got him down but he's still too high in my books. What do you think a ballpark number is? I don't have a SPID sheet, but it must be decently optioned. Factory tach, auto. No rear seat in it or bucket seat console. The 350 apparently runs. Rear bumper is bent. Has a winch on it that the guy says is factory but was that even an option?

[DeadheadNM]

That’s got potential. I’m seeing rust on the Rh door and outer rocker and along the lower tailgate. There’s likely more but if that’s original paint, and it looks like it could be, the rust is relatively not bad imo and not a deal breaker (obviously there could be a lot more that’s not apparent).

Front hubs look like faded red correct optional oem examples. No K5 option for a winch that I’m aware of (some pickups did receive a factory winch but those may be fleet ordered examples) but that could be a period Hickey piece. It’s a Custom level trim Jimmy.

I’d look at that if it were close to me. Value? Depends on what’s there and where you want to go with a build but on the low end at least $5-6k USD on this side of the border. Here’s a non running comparison presently on eBay but a 72 and a Highlander: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1972-Chevro...IAAOSw3tNfZBr6

[hevy_chevy67]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

That’s got potential. I’m seeing rust on the Rh door and outer rocker and along the lower tailgate. There’s likely more but if that’s original paint, and it looks like it could be, the rust is relatively not bad imo and not a deal breaker (obviously there could be a lot more that’s not apparent).

Front hubs look like faded red correct optional oem examples. No K5 option for a winch that I’m aware of (some pickups did receive a factory winch but those may be fleet ordered examples) but that could be a period Hickey piece. It’s a Custom level trim Jimmy.

I’d look at that if it were close to me. Value? Depends on what’s there and where you want to go with a build but on the low end at least $5-6k USD on this side of the border. Here’s a non running comparison presently on eBay but a 72 and a Highlander: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1972-Chevro...IAAOSw3tNfZBr6

I was thinking $10K USD is probably hitting the max on it's market value. But that still puts the me and the seller a ways off on what he is wanting. I guess worse case scenario I go up and look and I'm out my time and some gas. I need to think on it some more.

[truckster]

I love my Blazer, and I would love to pick up another one, or a Jimmy, but $10k for a truck that's not in driving condition seems too high to me.

[hevy_chevy67]

Originally Posted by truckster

I love my Blazer, and I would love to pick up another one, or a Jimmy, but $10k for a truck that's not in driving condition seems too high to me.

I agree, it's high. Just up here you never see them come up for sale. But regardless I don't think I can get him to even that price so likely going to pass on this one unfortunately.

[DeadheadNM]

You never know. If you do look I wish you luck - would be great if the seller gets reasonable.

[bhemingson]

mine was complete with some rust but not horrible. Not running. I paid $15k Canadian or $11,200 USD. I hadn't seen one under $30k running and I wanted to do the work so I know what I have.

[Classics Fan]

I can’t believe the amount of money these rigs go for in some parts of the country! I found my 1971 Jimmy in eastern Oregon in December 2017 and paid $11,000 for it in the same basic condition as shown in this picture. I have less than $13,000 in it now. 114,700 miles when purchased (118,000 now), rebuilt original 350 and THM350. I got a great deal, but still...!

[hevy_chevy67]

Originally Posted by Classics Fan

I can’t believe the amount of money these rigs go for in some parts of the country! I found my 1971 Jimmy in eastern Oregon in December 2017 and paid $11,000 for it in the same basic condition as shown in this picture. I have less than $13,000 in it now. 114,700 miles when purchased (118,000 now), rebuilt original 350 and THM350. I got a great deal, but still...!

Wow, you got a nice looking Jimmy for that price!

Yeah, I didn't end up going to look. It would be a 5 + hour drive one way and I was sent some interior pics before going and they were a let down. Firewall had yellow paint coming through on it, so some red flags were popping up. He said he is likely going to keep it and do a resto over the winter. Who knows, maybe it will be for sale again in the spring at a more reasonable price.