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Old 10-01-2002, 08:10 PM   #1
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COBALT's Avatar
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Seattle, WA, USA
Posts: 5,817
Thumbs up Rust-o-leum vs. Hammerite

I've recently used a lot of two of the most basic "out-of-the-can" rust prevention coatings. So far here's my opinion:

1. Prep work:

Hammerite. As long as the loose stuff is off you actually should just paint right onto the rust. It's made to bond better that way. Rust-o-leum there's a TON of prep work to do. You have to make sure you have a clean surface, and if possible remove as much rust as possible. That's tough when you have old coils that are covered in rust and grime. Wire brushing will run you out of energy.

2. Ease of application:

Rust-o-leum. I think it's thinner so it was easier to apply provided that I was in a breeze-free room.

3. Consistency:

Hammerite hands down. After shaking it up for 3 minutes it sprayed and coated evenly. Rust-o-leum was not consistent, and the distance from the part had to be varied from 10" to 16" depending on the condition of the can and the paint. Every can of Hammerite sprayed exactly the same, and the paint coated the same. I ended up getting a bad can of Rust-o-leum that somehow got moisture in it, and didn't see until I'd done a complete coat on a control arm. It's going to look like crap up close, but it won't come off.

4. Drying Time:

Rust-o-leum won this one. Hammerite is so thick, and pliable by nature it took FOREVER for a coat to dry. They say if you don't apply the 2nd coat within an hour you have to wait for 48 hours! Screw that.

5. Overall finished look:

Rust-o-leum. Actually depends on the application. On the sway bar I used Hammerite, and that's ok because it was a pitted surface. On the control arms that's a different story. I wanted them to look nice and glossy without that spider-web of silvery fleck.

6. Finish Options:

Again, Rust-o-leum. They had a metalic fleck silver paint that's making my coils look absolutely bad-a$$. A little more work removing rust, but it's worth it.

7. Price:

Rust-o-leum: About $1.50 cheaper per spray can retail.

Therefore, I think you know my conclusion. Ultimately it will come down to personal preference, and most may just decide the powder coater is preferable, but I don't have access to anyone who can coat these parts for me. I also can't justify buying my own just yet.
'69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400
'69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual
'99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe
Seattle, WA.

Last edited by N2TRUX; 08-13-2013 at 10:55 AM.
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