Best $40 bucks I've spent on a tool!!! - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

jay-dawg · 11-10-2002, 10:45 PM

After a day and a half of pounding on the steering knuckles to get the lower ball joints loose, I went to Sears and bought their multi purpose separator tool. By the time I got my 30 gallon air compressor to fill, I got the 2 lower ball joints, and all the front steering components apart. (A good 10 minutes) Right tool for the right job....man it felt good. I even tried that trick in the Haynes manual but that didnt work.

BTW, the whole front suspension is off the truck and the back end (box and suspension) has been off for a month now. Next to come off is the cab, the engine and the front sheetmetal.

I'm getting there

Jay

Primer_72 · 11-10-2002, 11:38 PM

Ya mean a pickle fork? 40 bucks is an awful lot for one of those....They work good, they might f up your balljoints but its ok if youre replacing the front suspension anyway...

jay-dawg · 11-10-2002, 11:45 PM

Is that what it's called??? j/k Well, this is Hawaii. I guess it's what we pay to live in paradise.

jay

guitarman · 11-11-2002, 09:17 AM

$40.00 Whew! I guess freight is very expensive.

jay-dawg · 11-11-2002, 01:44 PM

Yeah it is. I couldve gotten the tool off of sears.com for $30 and free shipping but I couldnt wait.

You wont believe the cost to ship down a cab from the west coast either. $650 just for shipping alone. Toss in the cost of the cab with doors and I can pretty much kiss my wallet goodbye.

jay

CoryM · 11-11-2002, 06:32 PM

Most cars you can usually seperate tie rods/balljoints with just a good hammer but there are some that are just plain impossible. Most tierods just take on or two hits (in the right spot) and they will pop out. My camaro for some odd reason there was no way to remove it with a hammer, then I went to an pickle fork, then finally got mad and got out the air chisel with pickle fork on it.... That got it

. There are 2 tools for tie rods, a pickle fork and a seperator. The seperator hooks over the centre link/spindle and uses a bolt to push down onto the top of the nut to break it free.
CoryM

Primer_72 · 11-11-2002, 09:15 PM

I got one for 11 bucks and only used it as a last resort on my 72. My 99 of course all I needed was a hammer, but it took alot more on the 30 yr old ball joints on the C-10....

**COBALT** · 11-12-2002, 12:13 PM

Mine were impossible to separate. I got a picklefork set off of ebay for around $10 new. It was a tool supplier unloading inventory on ebay. Before I look for any tool I check ebay first.

ElGracho · 11-12-2002, 01:22 PM

Funny you should mention ball joints. I spent the long weekend (Veterans day and all...) working on the front end of my 84 K10. Once I got down to the ball joints, I hit the upper stud with my 2lb mini thor hammer and it popped both joints free in about 54 blows. The other side was different. I got the upper stud to pop free but the lower stud wouldn't no matter what. I tried using a separator on my air chisel, but it still wouldn't go. I finally took the snap ring off the lower ball joint, hit the upper stud a few more times and the lower ball joint pulled out of the knuckle and then I hit the lower ball joint stud and it popped right out the of housing.

I don't think I've ever successfully used a pickle fork. The hammer usually works for me.

DennyB · 11-12-2002, 01:31 PM

On all the joints I can get the pitman arm puller on, that is what I use. Just tighten it down and give it a wack. Does not damage the joint or boots if you wish to save them.

Denny

11-10-2002, 10:45 PM	#1
jay-dawg chevelito Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Honolulu, HI USA Posts: 1,609	Best $40 bucks I've spent on a tool!!! After a day and a half of pounding on the steering knuckles to get the lower ball joints loose, I went to Sears and bought their multi purpose separator tool. By the time I got my 30 gallon air compressor to fill, I got the 2 lower ball joints, and all the front steering components apart. (A good 10 minutes) Right tool for the right job....man it felt good. I even tried that trick in the Haynes manual but that didnt work. BTW, the whole front suspension is off the truck and the back end (box and suspension) has been off for a month now. Next to come off is the cab, the engine and the front sheetmetal. I'm getting there Jay __________________ New deadline...when my son can drive. Aloha from Honolulu, HI

11-10-2002, 11:38 PM	#2
Primer_72 User and Abuser Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Merry Land Posts: 1,671	Ya mean a pickle fork? 40 bucks is an awful lot for one of those....They work good, they might f up your balljoints but its ok if youre replacing the front suspension anyway... __________________ RIP.... '99 Sierra 2x '93 Sierra 4x '72 C-10 Back in business: 68 C-10 lwb

11-10-2002, 11:45 PM	#3
jay-dawg chevelito Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Honolulu, HI USA Posts: 1,609	Is that what it's called??? j/k Well, this is Hawaii. I guess it's what we pay to live in paradise. jay __________________ New deadline...when my son can drive. Aloha from Honolulu, HI

11-11-2002, 09:17 AM	#4
guitarman Do it well or don't do it Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Georgia Posts: 457	$40.00 Whew! I guess freight is very expensive. __________________ Try to be the person your dog thinks you are. Excellent paint and body site: http://www.autobody101.com/ Visit my Web Site http://home.attbi.com/~agfosteriii

11-11-2002, 01:44 PM	#5
jay-dawg chevelito Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Honolulu, HI USA Posts: 1,609	Yeah it is. I couldve gotten the tool off of sears.com for $30 and free shipping but I couldnt wait. You wont believe the cost to ship down a cab from the west coast either. $650 just for shipping alone. Toss in the cost of the cab with doors and I can pretty much kiss my wallet goodbye. jay __________________ New deadline...when my son can drive. Aloha from Honolulu, HI

11-11-2002, 06:32 PM	#6
CoryM Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Surrey, B.C. , Canada Posts: 874	Most cars you can usually seperate tie rods/balljoints with just a good hammer but there are some that are just plain impossible. Most tierods just take on or two hits (in the right spot) and they will pop out. My camaro for some odd reason there was no way to remove it with a hammer, then I went to an pickle fork, then finally got mad and got out the air chisel with pickle fork on it.... That got it . There are 2 tools for tie rods, a pickle fork and a seperator. The seperator hooks over the centre link/spindle and uses a bolt to push down onto the top of the nut to break it free. CoryM __________________ 1970 heavy duty C-10 fleetside sport truck. Vancouver B.C. Canada http://www.geocities.com/chevroletc1070 "Take up our quarrel with the foe: To you from failing hands we throw The torch; be yours to hold it high." Lieutenant Colonel John McCrae, Canadian Army

11-11-2002, 09:15 PM	#7
Primer_72 User and Abuser Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Merry Land Posts: 1,671	I got one for 11 bucks and only used it as a last resort on my 72. My 99 of course all I needed was a hammer, but it took alot more on the 30 yr old ball joints on the C-10.... __________________ RIP.... '99 Sierra 2x '93 Sierra 4x '72 C-10 Back in business: 68 C-10 lwb

11-12-2002, 12:13 PM	#8
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	Mine were impossible to separate. I got a picklefork set off of ebay for around $10 new. It was a tool supplier unloading inventory on ebay. Before I look for any tool I check ebay first. __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

11-12-2002, 01:22 PM	#9
ElGracho Gentleman Jim Driver Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Poulsbo, WA Posts: 1,550	Funny you should mention ball joints. I spent the long weekend (Veterans day and all...) working on the front end of my 84 K10. Once I got down to the ball joints, I hit the upper stud with my 2lb mini thor hammer and it popped both joints free in about 54 blows. The other side was different. I got the upper stud to pop free but the lower stud wouldn't no matter what. I tried using a separator on my air chisel, but it still wouldn't go. I finally took the snap ring off the lower ball joint, hit the upper stud a few more times and the lower ball joint pulled out of the knuckle and then I hit the lower ball joint stud and it popped right out the of housing. I don't think I've ever successfully used a pickle fork. The hammer usually works for me. __________________ Joe '75 GMC Gentleman Jim '84 Chev C10 Short Wide - Super duper plain (manual steering, manual brakes, no dome light, no cig lighter) '85 Chev C10 Short Wide - Super plain Vortec 4.8 4L60E trans also: '81 K30, '83 C30 Crew Dually, '84 M1028 CUCV, '85 M1009 CUCV, another '85 C10 SWB, '89 R3500 Flatbed

11-12-2002, 01:31 PM	#10
DennyB Led Sled! Discs R 4 ME! Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Toms River, NJ, USA (Transplanted Hoosier) Posts: 7,327	On all the joints I can get the pitman arm puller on, that is what I use. Just tighten it down and give it a wack. Does not damage the joint or boots if you wish to save them. Denny __________________ "Never ride faster than your Angel can fly" I.M.O.M,W,J&C Patriot Guard Rider



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