Unlock my tool box? 1970 GMC Sierra Grande

[georgieb51]

I bought my 1970 GMC 2500 Sierra Grande a few years ago on ebay. It spent its life in Phoenix Arizona but now it is in upstate NY and the rainy weather is making its way through the very thin paint. So now I am considering painting the truck (all white) and of course I need to remove the tool box. For all I know there might be a million dollars inside it. I will give half of what I find to anyone who can help me get it unlocked or give me good advice. Thanks, George

PS I previewed this thread and I cannot figure out how to get the second photo to post correctly. I have gone back to look at it in Photos 6 times and it is always upright there.

[Barnfind46]

Hopefully Lock Dock will chime in.

[LockDoc]

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You are pretty much out of luck on it if you don't have the key. Be sure and spray the inside of the lock with a good penetrating oil and try your ignition key. Insert and remove it a few times to loosen up the tumblers. If the key will slide into the lock it may work. (don't force it)

Even if you can get to the latch bolt from the back you can't retract it because the locking system has a dead latch that keeps the latch bolt from retracting until the key is turned to the unlocked position. There is a spring clip that holds the lock cylinder in the door. If you could get to that and slide it off, the lock cylinder will come out. (See picture below) If you go that route be sure and spray the clip before trying to remove it.

In the picture the lock is in the unlocked position. When locked, the tab turns and blocks the lock bolt so it can't be retracted when the handle is pulled.

[georgieb51]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

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You are pretty much out of luck on it if you don't have the key. Be sure and spray the inside of the lock with a good penetrating oil and try your ignition key. Insert and remove it a few times to loosen up the tumblers. If the key will slide into the lock it may work. (don't force it)

Even if you can get to the latch bolt from the back you can't retract it because the locking system has a dead latch that keeps the latch bolt from retracting until the key is turned to the unlocked position. There is a spring clip that holds the lock cylinder in the door. If you could get to that and slide it off, the lock cylinder will come out. (See picture below) If you go that route be sure and spray the clip before trying to remove it.

In the picture the lock is in the unlocked position. When locked, the tab turns and blocks the lock bolt so it can't be retracted when the handle is pulled.

Thanks Doc. At least I now know what I am up against. I am considering drilling a hole with a hole saw large enough to get access to the lock so I can slide that "keeper" off and remove the lock. Then I could epoxy the hole back in place. Does this sound like a plan? And can I then get a key made for it or somehow replace the lock? I am willing to listen to suggestions from anyone else. There might be a million dollars in there!

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by georgieb51

Thanks Doc. At least I now know what I am up against. I am considering drilling a hole with a hole saw large enough to get access to the lock so I can slide that "keeper" off and remove the lock. Then I could epoxy the hole back in place. Does this sound like a plan? And can I then get a key made for it or somehow replace the lock? I am willing to listen to suggestions from anyone else. There might be a million dollars in there!

If you cut a hole in the bottom of the fiberglass tub a 3/4inch one should be big enough. If there is a code number stamped into the lock cylinder you can get a key made from that. (see picture for code location) If not, the lock cylinder can be disassembled and a key made by reading the tumblers. If you can't find a locksmith in your area to make a key PM me. The lock cylinders for those are pretty hard to find.....

LockDoc

[Stocker]

Do you know anyone that works for a utility like power or telecom or cable? Contractors too, because they might be driving older trucks. Some utility trucks had similar locks on their bin doors. Keys that fit one truck might fit another truck, as if there were only so many different locks made , rather than a unique lock & key for every truck. We found that a few different keys would often open locks on several different trucks. Might be worth a try before you start drilling holes.

[68 P.O.S.]

IIOY?

[68panelman]

If you hadn't already, try the other keys from all the trucks in you Sig,
I've gotten very lucky quite a few times by rapidly moving key in&out and gently turning to the right

[BigBird05]

If your planing on replacing the lock anyway, just drill out the lock and get a new replacement that
can be keyed to your truck key.

[Mbeef61]

Originally Posted by BigBird05

If your planing on replacing the lock anyway, just drill out the lock and get a new replacement that
can be keyed to your truck key.

Could be harder to replace the lock than to patch the hole

[68panelman]

Yep^^^, Leon, "lockdoc" mentioned that above

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by BigBird05

If your planing on replacing the lock anyway, just drill out the lock and get a new replacement that
can be keyed to your truck key.

Originally Posted by Mbeef61

Could be harder to replace the lock than to patch the hole

Originally Posted by 68panelman

Yep^^^, Leon, "lockdoc" mentioned that above

Yes, the lock cylinder for the tool box doors are not the same as the regular door locks and are not reproduced....

LockDoc

[georgieb51]

I finally got the toolbox unlocked by using the method suggested above of drilling a hole underneath the toolbox and sliding the "keeper" away from the lock. I was hoping to find a million dollars inside but all I found was a set of jumper cables and some warning reflectors. Now I need help with a key for the lock. There are no numbers on the lock. I was surprised by how little rust I found, but I could use a few new hinges.

[67/Heaven]

Home Depot or Lowes carries similar type lock sets some with the slide keeper. I just purchased some last month. You may find something that works for you

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Prime-Li...9943/100124186

[truckster]

No offense intended to LockDoc - he's the best at what he does, aside from being very helpful to all of us - but take a look at this guy:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ap9ny3-3rZ8

[Thealien]

Originally Posted by truckster

No offense intended to LockDoc - he's the best at what he does, aside from being very helpful to all of us - but take a look at this guy:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ap9ny3-3rZ8

That guy is amazing. He has taken and beat a couple of challenges.

[LockDoc]

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Master locks are not all that hard to pick unless they have mushroom pins in them (which that one obviously does not). You can even rap the padlocks open with the tension wrench and a small wooden hammer handle.....

GM door and ignition locks are much harder to pick because of their design. GM has used the same sidebar automotive locks since 1935.

I can make a key for it if you want to send it to me. It would run about $15.50 plus shipping back to you.

LockDoc

[jocko]

I guess I'll be replacing all my Master Locks

[truckster]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

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Master locks are not all that hard to pick unless they have mushroom pins in them (which that one obviously does not). You can even rap the padlocks open with the tension wrench and a small wooden hammer handle.....

Seriously, I mean no offense, because I respect your skills and opinions. That video was just what popped up today - this guy is amazing. People send him locks to challenge him and he opens them. And he's even a lawyer who seems likeable. I'd appreciate your opinion on how hard this one is, because Consumer Reports made it out to be very difficult:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XqsAFdFsQmQ&t=241s

[57taskforce]

For anyone who reads this thread in the future, take it from me. Don’t drill your tool box lock! I drilled mine and it took me 3 years to find a replacement with a working key. These are not easy to find even in the parts board here. When you do find them be prepared to pay as well and don’t wait even a second to think about it. It’ll likely be gone if you don’t buy it when you see it. I had no idea how hard these were to find when I drilled mine out. I would suggest doing as the op did, had I to do it over again I would have done the same thing.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by truckster

Seriously, I mean no offense, because I respect your skills and opinions. That video was just what popped up today - this guy is amazing. People send him locks to challenge him and he opens them. And he's even a lawyer who seems likeable. I'd appreciate your opinion on how hard this one is, because Consumer Reports made it out to be very difficult:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XqsAFdFsQmQ&t=241s

I need to take some time and watch some of his videos and do some reading about him. Problem is I don't have time to do that right now. I have picked quite a few locks in my day, but I don't consider myself a lock picking guru by any means. All I can tell you is that no one can pick a "good" high security lock that quickly, I don't care who they are or what they do.

LockDoc

[tdangle]

Georgieb51 Were the hinges on the inside or outside surface of the "box" ? That is did you have to remove the box to remove the hinges or the other way around. I seen pictures of the hinges both ways, and since yours hasn't been opened in years I assume it is original.

[57taskforce]

Originally Posted by tdangle

Georgieb51 Were the hinges on the inside or outside surface of the "box" ? That is did you have to remove the box to remove the hinges or the other way around. I seen pictures of the hinges both ways, and since yours hasn't been opened in years I assume it is original.

My bed was off a very un-molested truck and this is how it was mounted. It had been locked for a long time, it took quite a bit of penetrating oil to get the hinges to initially free up.

[Davidf]

Sorry old thread. But, I am restoring my toolbox lid...man was it in bad shape. Some repair shop used copious amounts of mud and sculpted the bottom corners from nothing. 7 individual welded in metal pieces per side later and it is starting to look good again and be rust free.

And, the key cylinder/latch was some kind of home contraption. The latch handle was broken and you open the door by turning the key which operated the latch. This made sense because it seems a door key cylinder was used. The key turns either direction and the key will inly come out in the vertical position...just like a door lock cylinder.

Anyway, anyone have a lead on the proper lock cylinder. If not, going to modify what I have to work. Basically have to leave the key in the cylinder when you unlock and open the toolbox door. Close the door and you get your key back with a locked toolbox. Good feature to ensure you don't drive away with the door open.

I estimate I will have 40 hours into the repairs getting it ready for paint.

[Flying Hamster]

Replacement locks for tool boxes are available at many box stores. They may not be "Correct" but they will work. Look for one with the same depth as the original lock. See if the "Arm" that interferes with the latch will bolt on. If not, bend the one that comes with the new lock into the same configuration. It is important that the latch be locked when the box is closed and the truck is in motion. The latch WILL bounce open without the physical interference. We had boxes like this in trucks where i worked many years ago and replaced quite a few locks this way.
Obviously, we didn't care about "Originality" as these were working trucks.