Installing a T-56

[smoky02]

I did a search and didn't really find a thread specifically talking about this so i thought I would start one. I just bought a T-56 transmission it came out of a '96 Camaro Z28. My truck was a 3 speed on the tree when i first got it, I converted it to an auto. What all am I going to need to make the T-56 work other than cutting a hole in the floor and re-installing the clutch pedal assembly.

Thank you in advance,

Brandon

[john]

You might have already read this post by brad on his T5 install, if not there might be some useful parts on your T-56 install.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=313954

[Custom 68]

I have one I have thought about installing also but I think without relocating the shifter it will be very far back? You might check that and see. I did see a post on here (I think) on relocating to the center access cover.
I will keep watching as I am thinking this direction also.
Dave

[smoky02]

Thanks so far, keep em coming please.

[Ackattack]

Probably have to convert to a hydraulic clutch setup.
Come up with a speedo solution (electronic output on tranny)
Driveshaft shortening (probably)
Devise some sort of circuit to enable/disable the reverse lockout solenoid as well as the 1-4 shift solenoid.

Good luck.....it will be worth it if you can get through these issues.

[smoky02]

Thank you, I was hoping that i could piggie back off of someone else's glory, I know I have heard of guys running these tranny's in our trucks.

[dznucks]

Shifty might chime in....i know he has one that he plans on installing.

I am planning on installing one eventually.

i do believe that you have to go with a hydraulic clutch. and you will have to run bucket seats due to the shifter being so far back. i also think that you have to reinforce your firewall due to the clutch, i could be wrong about that. i seems like i just saw something on a different forum where a company make a bellhousing adapter plate for this install.

[smoky02]

How hard is it to convert to a hyd. clutch? Also Would I be able to run a late model (1999 and up) seat, or would those also be in the way?

[68jewel]

The T56 only comes as a hydraulic clutch setup. Yes......

1. You will have to reinforece the firewall to keep the clutch pedal from pushing thru.
2. You will have to modify your trans tunnel/hump and relocate the tranny crossmember.
3. Buy an adapter plate for the bellhousing if you don't have an LS(Gen III/IV motor)
4. Hook up a clutch pedal for the clutch.
5. Shorten your driveshaft
6. Change your rear gears, because if you don't 6th gear may be virtually unusable.
There's a few other small variables in there, but that's pretty much it.

[smoky02]

So i won't be able to run 410s? I would think that would be the perfect gear for a 6 speed, but if not plesae elaborate. I would need to cut a whole in my floor I know. But would I need to modify it to a high hump? Also please break down what you mean by reinforcing the firewall so I won't push the clutch pedal thru. And just so I'm on the same page. Will I be able to use the clutch setup that actually came in my truck? Or will I need to build and/or modify something?

[Crazyz28]

Originally Posted by smoky02

So i won't be able to run 410s?

410's would probably be a good all around gear depending on the size of tires you run. I have the T56 in my 94 Z28 and run 3.73's, but my tires are most likely smaller than a tire used on a truck. As for the Skip shift, all you have to do is leave it unplugged and it will never activate. For the reverse lockout, it's pretty easy to push past it. I never hooked mine up as I converted my Z from an auto to T56. Even with a short shifter on it, it's easy, and with an extended shifter need on our trucks, it wouldn't be bad at all. If you did want to hook it up though, I guess a properly positioned microswitch could be used so that when you go full right, it would hit the switch and allow the reverse lockout to disengage.

Crazy

[Ackattack]

Originally Posted by 68jewel

The T56 only comes as a hydraulic clutch setup. Yes......

1. You will have to reinforece the firewall to keep the clutch pedal from pushing thru.
2. You will have to modify your trans tunnel/hump and relocate the tranny crossmember.
3. Buy an adapter plate for the bellhousing if you don't have an LS(Gen III/IV motor)
4. Hook up a clutch pedal for the clutch.
5. Shorten your driveshaft
6. Change your rear gears, because if you don't 6th gear may be virtually unusable.
There's a few other small variables in there, but that's pretty much it.

Since your using an LT1 T-56 disregard #3

4.10s will be great. My F-bodies/corvette had 3.42 gears and they were fine (stock tires, a little lighter weight).

For the clutch pedal, you'll need a clutch master cylinder and come up with a way to acuated it. And then you're required to take pictures and post them to show others how you did it

[smoky02]

Originally Posted by Ackattack

Since your using an LT1 T-56 disregard #3

4.10s will be great. My F-bodies/corvette had 3.42 gears and they were fine (stock tires, a little lighter weight).

For the clutch pedal, you'll need a clutch master cylinder and come up with a way to acuated it. And then you're required to take pictures and post them to show others how you did it

Thanks...keep the info coming ya'll...

[68jewel]

Originally Posted by smoky02

So i won't be able to run 410s? I would think that would be the perfect gear for a 6 speed, but if not plesae elaborate. I would need to cut a whole in my floor I know. But would I need to modify it to a high hump? Also please break down what you mean by reinforcing the firewall so I won't push the clutch pedal thru. And just so I'm on the same page. Will I be able to use the clutch setup that actually came in my truck? Or will I need to build and/or modify something?

Sorry, I didn't know what gear you were running. 4.10's would be perfect. I'll explain what I meant by reinforcing your firewall. As I stated, the T56 is a hydraulic clutch setup. Therefore, you will have to mount the master cylinder on the firewall next to hydraulic fluid reservoir. The clutch pedal pushrod will extend from the back of the pedal through the firewall into master cylinder which acts as a pump for the hydraulic fluid. The metal on our old trucks and cars firewall is too thin to mount the master cylinder alone. Therefore, once you push on the pedal, the pressure will eventually push thru the metal and tear the master cylinders screws from the firewall and dismount it. You will have to make a bracket to place behind it to mount it for extra reinforcement. A company also sells the brackets for Camaros, Chevelles, Novas, etc. I'm not sure what the brake booster bolt pattern is on our trucks in relation to these cars but I'm sure someone makes one. Try Classic Chevy 5 Speed. Here's a pic of what the bracket that goes behind the brake booster for the master cylinder looks like and a pic of the master cylinder with fluid reservoir & hydraulic throwout bearing.

[smoky02]

Awesome. Thank you for breaking that down for me

[68jewel]

Originally Posted by smoky02

Awesome. Thank you for breaking that down for me

No problem bro. Just do us a favor and post plenty of pics when and if you decide to do this.

[smoky02]

No problem...it'll be a little while...the transmission has to be delivered and I'm pretty sure that I'm going to build a 393 in the mean time.

[faribran]

a "383"

[smoky02]

Well I was doing the math, and if a 383 bored .030 over is a 388 then wouldn't a 383 bored .060 over be a 393?

[faribran]

good question.... sounds like lots of power to me..

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by smoky02

Well I was doing the math, and if a 383 bored .030 over is a 388 then wouldn't a 383 bored .060 over be a 393?

A .060 over 350 block w/a 3.75 stroke crank is 388ci. W/an offset grind on the crank (3.8 stroke) & .060 over-bore, you'd yield 393ci.

[smoky02]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

A .060 over 350 block w/a 3.75 stroke crank is 388ci. W/an offset grind on the crank (3.8 stroke) & .060 over-bore, you'd yield 393ci.

Thanks for explaining, but I'm still confused...so .030 bore on a 350 makes it a 355 but it takes a .060 bore on a 383 to do the same?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by smoky02

Thanks for explaining, but I'm still confused...so .030 bore on a 350 makes it a 355 but it takes a .060 bore on a 383 to do the same?

4.00 x 3.48 = 350ci
4.03 x 3.48 = 355
4.06 x 3.48 = 360

4.03 x 3.75 = 383ci
4.06 x 3.75 = 388

[smoky02]

Alright, I understand. I never realized that for it to be a 383 that it should have a .030 bore. Thank you for helping me out. Alright, now back on topic. Has no one installed a T-56 in one of your trucks before?

[68jewel]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

4.00 x 3.48 = 350ci
4.03 x 3.48 = 355
4.06 x 3.48 = 360

4.03 x 3.75 = 383ci
4.06 x 3.75 = 388

Me personally, I wouldn't bore a block .60 over. You've taken the cylinder walls to it's thinnest boundaries. Therefore, heating issues become a problem as far as the amount of heat produced within the cylinder walls by the pistons and this affects the tolerances of heat in your block. I know alot of people do bore .60 over but, it's just my opinion.