Dana 60 swap done!

[Yukon Jack]

Truck looks great as always and more strength - can't beat it. I'm glad to see you are using the raised steering block as I need to do something about my steering issue with my swapped in D60 - I'm using an adjustable dropped drag link and it made the steering pretty sloppy when I put in the D60. I read about the raised steering block but heard they sheering problem was a reason to stay away from them. Seeing your post and you using them made me look at ORD's site. Good to see they offer ARP hardware. I think this gets placed on my Christmas wish list. Did you replace your drag link with new hardware? IF so, purchased locally or online?

[ryanroo]

You could look into a dodge steering arm if you want to avoid the block. they kick up instead of down. they just need to be re-reamed.

Ryan

[DirtyLarry]

Thanks Yukon Jack!

Yeah, I used to have one of those adjustable S shaped drag links too and hated it as every time I got back from an off-road trip where the suspension got flexed it came home with the steering wheel crooked. That was on the D44 even with a raised steering arm. Just late this summer I got rid of that and just went with a stock straight drag link with fresh joints from Napa. That was the end of the steering wheel constantly being crooked. Too soon to say how things will work with the D60 along with the ORD raised steering block. The new drag link joints used on the D44 also fit the D60 that you can see in the pictures above. Funny, I don't feel as much of the Detroit locker rear torque steer push now either and don't know why added unsprung weight would help with that. Must be in my mind

The next big trip isn’t unit March when we leave for a week of cruising the back country of the Mojave Rd and Death Valley in California. Probably get at least one mountain trip in by then to test things out before leaving on a couple thousand mile trip but I suspect the steering wheel issue will be fixed now. I still need to raise up the rear of the truck to match the front now too. Man, I can't believe how much better it drives now with the added unsprung weight. It just drives better and rides better.

This is the steering drag link I ran from around 2007 to a few months ago. I hated this thing! Don't ever use one of these

[Yukon Jack]

Is installing the steering block as straight forward as it looks - just removing the four bolts, putting in the studs and then the block and stock arm or is there more to it?

[DirtyLarry]

Originally Posted by Yukon Jack

Is installing the steering block as straight forward as it looks - just removing the four bolts, putting in the studs and then the block and stock arm or is there more to it?

Yeah, it is very straight forward. Just take care in tapping the aluminum block over the king pin spring with a rubber mallet then regrease it when assembled. I added gasket sealer on both sides of the aluminum block to prevent any grease leaks. It does take a lot of grease to fill up the aluminum block before the ball joint gets grease so plan on having a fresh tube of grease in the gun. Too soon to say how well this set up will work but it looks plenty durable. Actually, I can’t say I am disappointed in anything I’ve ever gotten from ORD other than their U-bolts. IMHO they need to find a better supplier of U-bolts.

[Big Tex]

Larry-
That's great news about y'all being pregnant! I saw it mentioned in a post in another forum, but didn't know if you'd mentioned it, or if it was public knowledge.

They are a lot of fun. You're on the right track trying to get all your projects squared away before they arrive. Hold on a second.....

"Hey, make sure you're torquing those....."

[DirtyLarry]

Originally Posted by Big Tex

Larry-
That's great news about y'all being pregnant! I saw it mentioned in a post in another forum, but didn't know if you'd mentioned it, or if it was public knowledge.

They are a lot of fun. You're on the right track trying to get all your projects squared away before they arrive. Hold on a second.....

"Hey, make sure you're torquing those....."

That is great! Yeah, good help is hard to find. You have to keep your eyes on them constantly. Looks like he has it under control though.

Thanks BigTex!

[DirtyLarry]

Got the rear ORD Zero rate blocks installation wrapped up this evening to level the truck after the front D60 swap raised the front. I find it easier to just pop the spring packs out to work on them on the floor.

Seems like I’ve had these damn springs out of this truck 100 times in the last few years trying to get this thing to sit level. Once I got it level Mosesburb made me install a D60 and screw up my leveling where I had to start all over again.


After installing the block on the passenger’s side spring


Driver’s side


View of how the zero rate blocks allows for the axle to be pushed back by using 1 of the 3 positioning options built into the block. I used the provision to move the axle back 1”


A hole must be made in the spring plate to reposition the center pin locations. Got lucky on this side and got the hole deadnuts in the right spot. Passenger’s side not so much.


Level devil


Rear wheels look more centered in the wheel wells now too




Before zero rate block


After zero rate block install


That’s all for the K10 for a while. Got lots of plans for the Polar Bear Burb in the next few weeks

[martindc1]

Awesome. You do good work and documentation. I'm not much a fan of the higher in the front look.

[duallyjams]

much better

[Chevrolado]

Originally Posted by DirtyLarry

Superwinch hubs. I love these… ¼ turn to lock or unlock, durable and cost much less than Warn hubs.

When I was playing with my truck this weekend I noticed what hubs the PO put on mine... Superwinch. Kinda looking forward to given them a shot whenever the thing is running again.

[Chevymaniac]

How do you like those superwinch hubs? Thinking of buying a set for my Dana 60. Are they the 30 spline?

[DirtyLarry]

Originally Posted by Chevymaniac

How do you like those superwinch hubs? Thinking of buying a set for my Dana 60. Are they the 30 spline?

I really like Superwinch hubs. I have not had a chance to actually use these D60 hubs off-road yet but they lock and unlock nice with only a ¼ turn. My buddies and I all run Superwinch hubs on D44 axles and never had an ounce of issues. One friend is even running a fully ARB locked front axle with his SW hubs. Yes, these are the typical D60 30 spline hubs.

[Yukon Jack]

My steering block and stud kit came in this week so hope to get some free time in the next day or two to install it. Got to hit the parts store for fresh drag link parts. Do I just get a press in zerk fitting for the block?

[DirtyLarry]

Originally Posted by Yukon Jack

My steering block and stud kit came in this week so hope to get some free time in the next day or two to install it. Got to hit the parts store for fresh drag link parts. Do I just get a press in zerk fitting for the block?

Nah, the grease zirk in the steering arm/upper king pin cap should already have a grease zirk in it. Providing it is in good shape you just grease the block through that zirk. That zirk is a screw type and can easily be replaced if it needed. It will take a lot of grease, so have a fresh tube handy! Remember to use gasket material to both sides of the block when installing it to avoid king pin grease leaks.

I like Tough Stuff for jobs like that. Autozone stocks this stuff

[Yukon Jack]

When I go to pulling the steering arm/upper king pin cap do I just use a mallet to strike the sides to break it free or does it take more persuasion to get it loose?

I assume I just put two nuts on the existing studs to back them out?

Neither of my caps have grease zerks in them - I'm afraid they must have came out and the holes got covered with dirt and grime causing me to not recognize they were missing when I swapped in the axle. I'll have to get the holes cleared out and zerks installed.

[ryanroo]

Originally Posted by Yukon Jack

When I go to pulling the steering arm/upper king pin cap do I just use a mallet to strike the sides to break it free or does it take more persuasion to get it loose?

I assume I just put two nuts on the existing studs to back them out?

Neither of my caps have grease zerks in them - I'm afraid they must have came out and the holes got covered with dirt and grime causing me to not recognize they were missing when I swapped in the axle. I'll have to get the holes cleared out and zerks installed.

you can double nut the studs, or use a stud remover. if you are lucky, they will back out instead of the nuts coming off. if you tap on the drag link end of the arm gently with a rubber mallet up, down, repeat, it should come off. the stud clearance is pretty close so you have to take small bites or it gets twisted on the studs and becomes wedged. i would get some new tapered nuts for the re-install if the kit did not come with them. they are 12"-20 threads and have a 60 degree taper. 78 f-350 lug nuts(and many other applications i am sure) are the correct thread and taper. i have a box laying around because it seems the threads get rough every time you disassemble an older axle and they are pretty cheap to replace.

the zerks are easy to snap off when moving an axle or just in general use over time. you may want to check out the nylon cone bushing in the kingpin while you are in there if its been a while without grease it could be pretty beat. there should be zerks in the bottom bearing caps as well, and if they are gone i would be sure to replace them and get things greasy again. the bearing in the bottom will probably be fine since there isn't a lot of movement there, but i wouldnt want them going dry
Ryan

[Projectutah]

what should i do keep stock steering or crossover? its a k10 with a 10bolt im have trouble finding out whats best. im making an overland rig

[Redcap]

Originally Posted by Projectutah

what should i do keep stock steering or crossover? its a k10 with a 10bolt im have trouble finding out whats best. im making an overland rig

Why bother doing crossover on a weak axle like a 10bolt?

[Projectutah]

Weak 10bolt? Never had a problem... With 37, it has chromoly axle shafts and ARB locker and it's lighter then D60 also stronger then jeep axles and they run bigger tires then me.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Mr. 250r]

I ran a stock 10b under my suburban with 38.5s and it worked great even ramped it and it still held up, i would go back to it in a heart beat but i got a good price on a D60 so i put that under it but at the end of the day the D60 will be considered king that i cannot argue but i cannot knock the 10b because it did way more than i thought it would

[24s]

Hello DirtyLarry Im new here and tommorrow i am picking up a dana 60 king pin to put in my 1990 2500 burb. The guy that i am buying it from does not know the year. So my question is it need brakes and im going to napa but dont know what year the Dana is. What year and truck did they come from?

[jjzepplin]

This is the first time I've seen your trucks and what a nice job you have done sir!
I have the block on my 60 and you will be fine. I did put a double stabilizer on and no death wobble ever again!
I have to ask though...What camper is that and do you like it? I have been considering one and have no one to ask opinion.
I am a little strapped(aren't we all) so I cannot afford to make a "Bad" Purchase.
Oh and congratulations!!!!

[DirtyLarry]

Originally Posted by 24s

Hello DirtyLarry Im new here and tommorrow i am picking up a dana 60 king pin to put in my 1990 2500 burb. The guy that i am buying it from does not know the year. So my question is it need brakes and im going to napa but dont know what year the Dana is. What year and truck did they come from?

The difference over the years of brake hoses is more related to the banjo bolt thread in the caliper, 7/16 vs. 10 mm. You need to figure out which thread is in your calipers in order to know what brake hoses to use. I would recommend using a set of the ORD brake hoses if you are running any lift at all. If your Dana 60 is a CUCV axle like mine you can count on it having the 10 MM banjo bolts.

Originally Posted by jjzepplin

This is the first time I've seen your trucks and what a nice job you have done sir!
I have the block on my 60 and you will be fine. I did put a double stabilizer on and no death wobble ever again!
I have to ask though...What camper is that and do you like it? I have been considering one and have no one to ask opinion.
I am a little strapped(aren't we all) so I cannot afford to make a "Bad" Purchase.
Oh and congratulations!!!!

Thank you sir. The camper is a 2011 Phoenix popup. I am on my 3rd season with it and it has been great. It’s been bounced, shaken, twisted, baked and frozen with no issues. Phoenix campers are custom made to the owners specs so no two are alike however, you might find a similar Four Wheel Camper available used. A new camper like this will cost more than twice what the truck cost new in 1978.

A few pictures from a 9-day trip to the Mohave Desert and Death Valley earlier this year.

[24s]

Originally Posted by DirtyLarry

The difference over the years of brake hoses is more related to the banjo bolt thread in the caliper, 7/16 vs. 10 mm. You need to figure out which thread is in your calipers in order to know what brake hoses to use. I would recommend using a set of the ORD brake hoses if you are running any lift at all. If your Dana 60 is a CUCV axle like mine you can count on it having the 10 MM banjo bolts.



Thank you sir. The camper is a 2011 Phoenix popup. I am on my 3rd season with it and it has been great. It’s been bounced, shaken, twisted, baked and frozen with no issues. Phoenix campers are custom made to the owners specs so no two are alike however, you might find a similar Four Wheel Camper available used. A new camper like this will cost more than twice what the truck cost new in 1978.

A few pictures from a 9-day trip to the Mohave Desert and Death Valley earlier this year.

Thanks so much for info and great looking truck!!!