Cutting Springs? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

72c10lover16 · 03-11-2009, 12:33 PM

Anyone have any advice on cutting springs. I kinda was thinkin bout cuttin my springs to lower my truck. im on a very limited budget and i drive this truck everyday. Any feedback or opinions would be appreciated.

72freak · 03-11-2009, 12:54 PM

You can cut the fronts but you will have to replace or heat the rears.

mr48chev · 03-11-2009, 01:02 PM

As 72Freak said you can cut the fronts although the naysayers will tell you not to. It has been since people started lowering coil spring rigs and the biggest rub will be that the truck might ride a bit harsher. You should have the alignment redone after you do it though. I'd use a cutoff wheel rather than a torch.
On the rears you are going to have to change the coils to do it right. Heating the coil is the way a lot of guys used to do it but they usually keep sagging and there is a great chance that they will break at some time or another. There are also lowering blocks to get a couple if inches of drop but I think that they come close to the price of new coils.

72c10lover16 · 03-11-2009, 01:04 PM

why is it you cant cut the rears? just curious. i beleive you i am just wondering

**LockDoc** · 03-11-2009, 01:20 PM

-
The rear coils are tapered on both ends. If you cut them you would have to have a way to re-bend them on the end. You can make some lowering blocks out of 2x2x 1/4" wall steel tubing but you would have to buy some new 2" longer "U" bolts. (about 30 bucks at a spring shop). I would not heat the springs...

LockDoc

69halfton · 03-11-2009, 01:46 PM

when you cut the springs in front, how much more harsh is the ride? i would have thought that the spring would have been softer this way, and that the truck just bottoms out a lot easier?

**LockDoc** · 03-11-2009, 02:30 PM

-
Cutting one full coil off really shouldn't change the ride all that much. One full coil should give you a 2" to 2 1/2" drop. I don't think I would cut more than one coil though.

LockDoc

Brad · 03-11-2009, 03:05 PM

and don't use a torch, use a cutoff wheel instead.

69chevybmx · 03-11-2009, 03:27 PM

I hate being the naysayer...

Springs are designed with a predetermined rate of travel and cutting them changes that rate. Springs designed for lowering are not just simply shorter, they also have increased rate to provide the ability to carry the load with the shortened amount of travel. IMO cutting springs to lower is like removing 1" from your shins instead of buying longer pants. it just doesn't seem like a good idea.

As for heating springs, you bring the possibility of continued spring sag AND it makes the metal more brittle and prone to snapping. You might save some cash by heating the springs but having one snap while doing 70+ mph would have been well worth the investment of proper springs.

When trying to save on money, your suspension is not always the best place to skimp.

69chevybmx · 03-11-2009, 03:31 PM

I hate being the naysayer...

Springs are designed with a predetermined rate of travel and cutting them changes that rate. Springs designed for lowering are not just simply shorter, they also have increased rate to provide the ability to carry the load with the shortened amount of travel. IMO cutting springs to lower is like removing 1" from your shins instead of buying longer pants. it just doesn't seem like a good idea.

As for heating springs, you bring the possibility of continued spring sag AND it makes the metal more brittle and prone to snapping. You might save some cash by heating the springs but having one snap while doing 70+ mph would have been well worth the investment of proper springs.

When trying to save on money, your suspension is not always the best place to skimp.

scrapmetalart · 03-11-2009, 04:10 PM

cut the fronts. The spring rate does go up a bit & it will ride rougher, but it is cheap. It is all in what you want to spend. 70's full size chevy cars have rear springs that will fit your truck & will lower it...

Heating them is a bad idea. They will break eventually...

I have used the torch to cut springs many times. only the very end gets hot...

38chevyhotrod · 03-11-2009, 04:24 PM

I would not recommend it at all. I just replaced my springs, the fronts where cut and constantly made snapping noises when driving slowly in to holes.

The rears where heated to lower them, but they also didn't do it well.
After putting the lowering springs on the burb, it is driving much nicer.
It did cost 200 buck but it was well worth it.

Skirkpat · 03-11-2009, 04:41 PM

Heating your springs is like letting all the air out of your tires, It will make your truck lower, but it is a really bad idea if you want to drive it.

Longhorn Man · 03-11-2009, 05:19 PM

chopping and heating has been done for 50+ years. If done right, there won't be miuch of an issue.
It isn't the best way, but it works.
I would recomend chopping and cutting, (get someone who has done this before to help, otherwise some of the bad things could well happen) and never saying anything about it on here, many will shun you for it.

lts70 · 03-11-2009, 05:36 PM

Cut them it works great and is not a safety issue if done right. I would not heat spring though as they seem to settle out over time and usually not evenly.

Bob 68327 · 03-11-2009, 05:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

chopping and heating has been done for 50+ years. If done right, there won't be miuch of an issue.
It isn't the best way, but it works.
I would recomend chopping and cutting, (get someone who has done this before to help, otherwise some of the bad things could well happen) and never saying anything about it on here, many will shun you for it.

69chevybmx · 03-11-2009, 05:49 PM

The odds of a brittle spring snapping and blowing out a tire causing the truck to careen out of control and burst into flames are slim to none. Fatalities (or accidents for that matter) caused by improperly lowered vehicles are probably about as common as lottery winners.

That being said, if there are players, somebody has to win.

Having a spring crack or sag though regardless of any safety risk is going to put you right back in the boat of needing a new spring anyway. You can always sell the OE springs to get back a few bucks.

Not here to shun anyone, my own father has cut the springs on every truck and hotrod he has built and never had a safety problem. They just ride like a hay wagon afterward.

mexgrhd68 · 03-11-2009, 06:03 PM

1 coil=2in. lower stance, go from there. You might also want to trim your bump stop a little lower, to give that much more ride before it bottoms out.

AlienYouth · 03-11-2009, 06:10 PM

i cut 2 coils, been ridin for a year like that, not so great for weight transfer at the track, but i would do it again if i get another truck for sure

PanelDeland · 03-11-2009, 07:26 PM

I'm just going to say that you don't want to go with more than 2 in of drop with springs,unless you are replacing the control arms.Most with more than 2 in of lowering in the springs have had alignment problems due to needing more shim to align than is safe.
This is even with factory lowering springs.

allen123 · 03-11-2009, 10:31 PM

just to make it a little easier could someone post a picture of where to cut the spring?

crazy longhorn · 03-12-2009, 09:13 AM

Sorry, no pics, but if you toss the spring upside down in a 5 gallon bucket of water, then just cut 1 full ring off the bottom with your torch you will be "good to go". As already mentioned, you will need to trim the bumpstops off the lower A arms. I left a portion of the steer stop, & used traction bar snubbers (bolted right to the arms) for bumpstops. The 1 full ring gives a 2 1/2 -3 " drop, & the spring will stay seated when you jack the truck up(the ride is not bad either).....crazyL

kulturekat · 03-12-2009, 11:46 AM

im running cut springs on the front i did get it realigned but it brought it exactly where i wanted it. i did have to buy new lower springs for the rear but it works great for a static drop. i have no issues with any part of it. dont heat cut them. but cut them evenly so that they line up in the pocket on the bottom as well as in the top. i may have some pics somewhere. heating them is too untrue of a method in my opinion.

70c10 · 03-12-2009, 12:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by allen123

just to make it a little easier could someone post a picture of where to cut the spring?

Here ya go. I posted this awhile back: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...highlight=coil

texanidiot25 · 03-12-2009, 01:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PanelDeland

I'm just going to say that you don't want to go with more than 2 in of drop with springs,unless you are replacing the control arms.Most with more than 2 in of lowering in the springs have had alignment problems due to needing more shim to align than is safe.
This is even with factory lowering springs.

I've got 3in drop springs with no worried in the alignment department.

03-11-2009, 12:33 PM	#1
72c10lover16 Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Location: Laramie, Wyoming Posts: 93	Cutting Springs? Anyone have any advice on cutting springs. I kinda was thinkin bout cuttin my springs to lower my truck. im on a very limited budget and i drive this truck everyday. Any feedback or opinions would be appreciated. __________________ 68 swb 4x4 327 4 speed

03-11-2009, 12:54 PM	#2
72freak Rottenwood Garage Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Marietta, Georgia Posts: 4,321	Re: Cutting Springs? You can cut the fronts but you will have to replace or heat the rears. __________________ 2004 Chevrolet Suburban C1500 2001 Chevrolet 2500HD Crew 6.0 1999 Harley Davidson Electra Glide 1972 Chevrolet C-20 Custom Camper "Dump Truck" 1972 Chevrolet C-20 Suburban "Big Green" 1969 Chevrolet C-50 Wedge Hauler "Leonidis" 1966 C-10 2x4 short fleet 327 4 speed "Race Truck" 1952 Plymouth Cranbrook "Rican" (my grandfathers) 1931 Ford Model A Coupe "Black Beauty" 1930 Ford Model A truck "Club Cab" 4x4 Rottenwood Garage and Speed Shop.....where everything must be racy! *It's not just a hobby..It's a LIFESTYLE!!!* Thanks for nothing Barrett-Jackson You cant fix stupid or teach accountability! Time wasters, looky Lous and tire kickers are everywhere!

03-11-2009, 01:02 PM	#3
mr48chev Registered User Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Toppenish, WA Posts: 15,387	Re: Cutting Springs? As 72Freak said you can cut the fronts although the naysayers will tell you not to. It has been since people started lowering coil spring rigs and the biggest rub will be that the truck might ride a bit harsher. You should have the alignment redone after you do it though. I'd use a cutoff wheel rather than a torch. On the rears you are going to have to change the coils to do it right. Heating the coil is the way a lot of guys used to do it but they usually keep sagging and there is a great chance that they will break at some time or another. There are also lowering blocks to get a couple if inches of drop but I think that they come close to the price of new coils.

03-11-2009, 01:04 PM	#4
72c10lover16 Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Location: Laramie, Wyoming Posts: 93	Re: Cutting Springs? why is it you cant cut the rears? just curious. i beleive you i am just wondering __________________ 68 swb 4x4 327 4 speed

03-11-2009, 01:20 PM	#5
LockDoc The Older Generation Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Montezuma, Iowa Posts: 25,369	Re: Cutting Springs? - The rear coils are tapered on both ends. If you cut them you would have to have a way to re-bend them on the end. You can make some lowering blocks out of 2x2x 1/4" wall steel tubing but you would have to buy some new 2" longer "U" bolts. (about 30 bucks at a spring shop). I would not heat the springs... LockDoc __________________ Leon Locksmith, Specializing In Antique Trucks, Automobiles, & Motorcycles (My Dually Pickup Project Thread) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=829820 - Last edited by LockDoc; 03-11-2009 at 01:21 PM.

03-11-2009, 01:46 PM	#6
69halfton Registered User Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: King City, Ontario, Canada Posts: 974	Re: Cutting Springs? when you cut the springs in front, how much more harsh is the ride? i would have thought that the spring would have been softer this way, and that the truck just bottoms out a lot easier? __________________ - Jason If you can turn, Youre not going fast enough. Favorite caption: first car to 200 mph in the 1/4 mile, no parachute, drum brakes all the way around.. ..back when men were men.

03-11-2009, 02:30 PM	#7
LockDoc The Older Generation Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Montezuma, Iowa Posts: 25,369	Re: Cutting Springs? - Cutting one full coil off really shouldn't change the ride all that much. One full coil should give you a 2" to 2 1/2" drop. I don't think I would cut more than one coil though. LockDoc __________________ Leon Locksmith, Specializing In Antique Trucks, Automobiles, & Motorcycles (My Dually Pickup Project Thread) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=829820 -

03-11-2009, 03:05 PM	#8
Brad Out of the carpool lane. Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Clark Co, WA Posts: 5,673	Re: Cutting Springs? and don't use a torch, use a cutoff wheel instead. __________________ 1968 C-10 SWB, 5.7 Vortec/700R4/3.73 posi, Torch Red 1968 Camaro, 250/Powerglide, all original (No, I'm not gonna drop a 350 in it!...Jeez!) 2000 Honda VFR in the faster yellow! 2008 Husqvarna TE-610 1967 C-10 SWB 'Six Appeal'-Gone but not forgotten...

03-11-2009, 03:27 PM	#9
69chevybmx Registered User Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: South Bend, IN Posts: 83	Re: Cutting Springs? I hate being the naysayer... Springs are designed with a predetermined rate of travel and cutting them changes that rate. Springs designed for lowering are not just simply shorter, they also have increased rate to provide the ability to carry the load with the shortened amount of travel. IMO cutting springs to lower is like removing 1" from your shins instead of buying longer pants. it just doesn't seem like a good idea. As for heating springs, you bring the possibility of continued spring sag AND it makes the metal more brittle and prone to snapping. You might save some cash by heating the springs but having one snap while doing 70+ mph would have been well worth the investment of proper springs. When trying to save on money, your suspension is not always the best place to skimp.

03-11-2009, 03:31 PM	#10
69chevybmx Registered User Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: South Bend, IN Posts: 83	Re: Cutting Springs? I hate being the naysayer... Springs are designed with a predetermined rate of travel and cutting them changes that rate. Springs designed for lowering are not just simply shorter, they also have increased rate to provide the ability to carry the load with the shortened amount of travel. IMO cutting springs to lower is like removing 1" from your shins instead of buying longer pants. it just doesn't seem like a good idea. As for heating springs, you bring the possibility of continued spring sag AND it makes the metal more brittle and prone to snapping. You might save some cash by heating the springs but having one snap while doing 70+ mph would have been well worth the investment of proper springs. When trying to save on money, your suspension is not always the best place to skimp.

03-11-2009, 04:10 PM	#11
scrapmetalart Junior Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: DAYTON Posts: 505	Re: Cutting Springs? cut the fronts. The spring rate does go up a bit & it will ride rougher, but it is cheap. It is all in what you want to spend. 70's full size chevy cars have rear springs that will fit your truck & will lower it... Heating them is a bad idea. They will break eventually... I have used the torch to cut springs many times. only the very end gets hot... __________________ frontstreetcycle on Instagram

03-11-2009, 04:24 PM	#12
38chevyhotrod Registered User Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Netherlands Posts: 191	Re: Cutting Springs? I would not recommend it at all. I just replaced my springs, the fronts where cut and constantly made snapping noises when driving slowly in to holes. The rears where heated to lower them, but they also didn't do it well. After putting the lowering springs on the burb, it is driving much nicer. It did cost 200 buck but it was well worth it. __________________ Anybody can restore a classic, takes a man to cut one up..... http://www.arnoldscustoms.com

03-11-2009, 04:41 PM	#13
Skirkpat Registered User Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: K.C. Missouri Posts: 1,024	Re: Cutting Springs? Heating your springs is like letting all the air out of your tires, It will make your truck lower, but it is a really bad idea if you want to drive it.

03-11-2009, 05:19 PM	#14
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Re: Cutting Springs? chopping and heating has been done for 50+ years. If done right, there won't be miuch of an issue. It isn't the best way, but it works. I would recomend chopping and cutting, (get someone who has done this before to help, otherwise some of the bad things could well happen) and never saying anything about it on here, many will shun you for it. Last edited by Longhorn Man; 03-11-2009 at 05:19 PM.

03-11-2009, 05:36 PM	#15
lts70 1970 Daily Driver Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Glenns Ferry IDAHO Posts: 1,035	Re: Cutting Springs? Cut them it works great and is not a safety issue if done right. I would not heat spring though as they seem to settle out over time and usually not evenly. __________________ It's not truly yours if you didn't build it yourself or if you don't do your own maintenance.



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03-11-2009, 05:49 PM	#17
69chevybmx Registered User Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: South Bend, IN Posts: 83	Re: Cutting Springs? The odds of a brittle spring snapping and blowing out a tire causing the truck to careen out of control and burst into flames are slim to none. Fatalities (or accidents for that matter) caused by improperly lowered vehicles are probably about as common as lottery winners. That being said, if there are players, somebody has to win. Having a spring crack or sag though regardless of any safety risk is going to put you right back in the boat of needing a new spring anyway. You can always sell the OE springs to get back a few bucks. Not here to shun anyone, my own father has cut the springs on every truck and hotrod he has built and never had a safety problem. They just ride like a hay wagon afterward.

03-11-2009, 06:03 PM	#18
mexgrhd68 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Visalia, CA. Posts: 327	Re: Cutting Springs? 1 coil=2in. lower stance, go from there. You might also want to trim your bump stop a little lower, to give that much more ride before it bottoms out. __________________ 68 c-10 1/2 ton swb fleetside, 79 GMC Sierra Grande 1/2 ton swb fleetside, 99 Dodge Durango 4x4(wifes ride),53 and 55 chevy trucks(dads trucks ) 54 caddy 62 series 4 door(younger sons ride, aka 54caddy ) 70 caddy 2 door, 89 chevy silverado stepside(older sons rides )

03-11-2009, 06:10 PM	#19
AlienYouth Registered User Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Westminster, Maryland Posts: 411	Re: Cutting Springs? i cut 2 coils, been ridin for a year like that, not so great for weight transfer at the track, but i would do it again if i get another truck for sure __________________ Picturesss 71 C10 383/TH400 13.65 @ 99... 2.06 60' spinnin :/

03-11-2009, 07:26 PM	#20
PanelDeland I am a Referee of life. Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Greensboro N.C. Posts: 13,993	Re: Cutting Springs? I'm just going to say that you don't want to go with more than 2 in of drop with springs,unless you are replacing the control arms.Most with more than 2 in of lowering in the springs have had alignment problems due to needing more shim to align than is safe. This is even with factory lowering springs. __________________ The 47-present Chevrolet and GMC Truck Message Board Network,it's owners,moderators,members,and associates of any type should not be held responsible for my opinion. You can't fix stupid,not even with duct tape. "My appearance is due to the fact that "GOD" does punish you for having too much fun!" Barrett-Jackson has perfected alchemy,they make rust into gold! "You can lead a horse to water but you can't saddle a duck" "Cleverly disguised as a 'Responsible Adult' "Sometimes your Knight in shining armor is just a retard in tinfoil" Last edited by PanelDeland; 03-11-2009 at 07:27 PM.

03-11-2009, 10:31 PM	#21
allen123 It'll buff out Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Blanchard,Ok Posts: 1,376	Re: Cutting Springs? just to make it a little easier could someone post a picture of where to cut the spring? __________________ 1972 Chevy c10 swb 2008 CBR600RR Grafitti edition My Build Cody Allen

03-12-2009, 09:13 AM	#22
crazy longhorn Fabricate till you "puke" Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ill Posts: 9,403	Re: Cutting Springs? Sorry, no pics, but if you toss the spring upside down in a 5 gallon bucket of water, then just cut 1 full ring off the bottom with your torch you will be "good to go". As already mentioned, you will need to trim the bumpstops off the lower A arms. I left a portion of the steer stop, & used traction bar snubbers (bolted right to the arms) for bumpstops. The 1 full ring gives a 2 1/2 -3 " drop, & the spring will stay seated when you jack the truck up(the ride is not bad either).....crazyL __________________ 69 longhorn,4" chop,3/5 drop, 1/2 ton suspension/disc brakes,1 1/2" body drop,steel tilt clip, 5.3/Edelbrock rpm intake/600 carb, Hooker streetrod shorties,2 1/2" exhaust/ H pipe/50's Flows , 6 spd Richmond trans,12 bolt/ 3.40 gears.... Last edited by crazy longhorn; 03-12-2009 at 09:14 AM. Reason: more info

03-12-2009, 11:46 AM	#23
kulturekat Registered User Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: stillwater, oklahoma Posts: 566	Re: Cutting Springs? im running cut springs on the front i did get it realigned but it brought it exactly where i wanted it. i did have to buy new lower springs for the rear but it works great for a static drop. i have no issues with any part of it. dont heat cut them. but cut them evenly so that they line up in the pocket on the bottom as well as in the top. i may have some pics somewhere. heating them is too untrue of a method in my opinion.

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