2 piece drive shaft front section removal

[rockyrivermark]

So I'm cutting my frame down to a short bed this weekend using the Brothers template kit.
How does the front section of a 2 piece drive shaft with a carrier bearing come off.
For those who can done it do I have to disassemble the U joint bearing by the carrier bearing?
any tricks or tips appreciated.
thanks, Mark

[kwmech]

The front section is what the carrier spindle is welded to. Unbolt the complete shaft all the way to the diff.

[randy500]

Remove the entire driveshaft and send it out for shortening and balance. You probably have the carrier bearing with the bolts inline front to rear of truck, those bolts point down and thread in to the carrier bearing metal support, put your hand up there and you can feel 2 bolts, I think they are 7/16 diameter bolts with a 5/8 wrench head.

[Racer382D]

I'm a little concerned that your attempting to shorten a frame but can't remove a driveshaft.... no offense but you may be in a little over your head.

[Wrenchbender Ret]

I think Rocky is trying to separate the front shaft from the rear. The original way is to disassemble the U-joint. I have gone in with a thin 3/4 in open end wrench & back the bolt out.

[randy500]

Originally Posted by Racer382D

I'm a little concerned that your attempting to shorten a frame but can't remove a driveshaft.... no offense but you may be in a little over your head.

I like this comment and was going to make the same one...

I guess this is why people buy the kit from Brothers...I wonder what the instructions say about the driveshaft.

[randy500]

Originally Posted by Wrenchbender Ret

I think Rocky is trying to separate the front shaft from the rear. The original way is to disassemble the U-joint. I have gone in with a thin 3/4 in open end wrench & back the bolt out.

I thought about telling him how to disassemble the driveshaft but once I noticed he bought the Brothers kit I knew there was no way the kit explained how to shorten the driveshaft. I am sure he is having trouble removing the driveshaft (the hidden bolts)

[rockyrivermark]

listen... I haven't even started to remove the shaft yet just asking the question so easy on the criticism on my skill set. I was guessing I would have to remove the U-joints but again just asked in case there is a easier way. This is the first 2 piece I've worked on.
I will be sending out the front portion of the shaft to a local shop be cut and balanced.
I got the info I needed. thanks randy400
thanks
RRM

[Racer382D]

Originally Posted by rockyrivermark

listen... I haven't even started to remove the shaft yet just asking the question so easy on the criticism on my skill set. I was guessing I would have to remove the U-joints but again just asked in case there is a easier way. This is the first 2 piece I've worked on.
I will be sending out the front portion of the shaft to a local shop be cut and balanced.
I got the info I needed. thanks randy400
thanks
RRM

I tried to be as polite as possible, I just had to take it for the info I had..... and what I got out of it sounded a little scary..... for all I know your a nuke welder and master fabricator and can do this in your sleep.

Good Luck and post pics.

[randy500]

Originally Posted by rockyrivermark

listen... I haven't even started to remove the shaft yet just asking the question so easy on the criticism on my skill set. I was guessing I would have to remove the U-joints but again just asked in case there is a easier way. This is the first 2 piece I've worked on.
I will be sending out the front portion of the shaft to a local shop be cut and balanced.
I got the info I needed. thanks randy400
thanks
RRM

I was trying to help too, I just couldn't leave it alone when the comments started, let me know if you need any advice I have been cutting these things down since the 1990's....

Check my build thread and you can see how I handled the fuel lines. I don't describe it but there are pictures.
For the brake line, I remove it from behind the front crossmember at the coupler, its one piece to almost the rear end, I shorten it and double flare it and reinstall, usually cut at the front, its real easy.
For the emergency brake cable, I shorten it and use a steel cable stop on one side or the other at the rear end cable connector.
Use this one...Dorman part number 03339

Can you post the instructions for that kit, I would like to read it.

[Myoldtruck]

make sure you mark both drive shaft ends at the carrier bearing so they stay in phase when you put them back together. I had mine balanced this summer, but they did them together, not just the front one.

[rockyrivermark]

Originally Posted by randy500

I was trying to help too, I just couldn't leave it alone when the comments started, let me know if you need any advice I have been cutting these things down since the 1990's....

Check my build thread and you can see how I handled the fuel lines. I don't describe it but there are pictures.
For the brake line, I remove it from behind the front crossmember at the coupler, its one piece to almost the rear end, I shorten it and double flare it and reinstall, usually cut at the front, its real easy.
For the emergency brake cable, I shorten it and use a steel cable stop on one side or the other at the rear end cable connector.
Use this one...Dorman part number 03339

Can you post the instructions for that kit, I would like to read it.

Thanks for info. The kit comes with brake lines and emergency cable. The instructions are on the brothers website. I do have a flaring tool if needed. It takes all guess work out of re process so for me it was well worth the dough. Plus with 4 kids and full time business you have to ask yourself what is my time worth.
Im a cabinet maker by trade so if the toughest part is cutting a straight line along a template with a saw zall I will be fine.
Like many in this forum I'm a hobbiest/ backyard mechanic and thrilled to finally have a '70 c10. I already finished the engine work and it's solid truck.
I restored a work truck I owned for 20 years and re painted it along with a few other projects. The '92 gmc fell prey to the peeling factory white paint problem GM had. Those were practice for this project. I hope to have her on the road by May
Mark
www.cbcabinets.com
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[randy500]

Looks like a nice truck. There was a thread a month or so ago about that kit, a fee guys said it cost too much etc. I said if it gives you the confidence to make the project happens then it's worth it. You confirmed that. Good luck with it.

BTW, your driveshaft guy will probably want the whole shaft to get it phased right

[brad_man_72]

The driveshaft shop will need all of the driveshaft assembled to PROPERLY balance the shaft. This will include the rear section. This is what I do all day every day. If your driveshaft shop says otherwise, slowly turn around and walk out the door with your driveshaft and find a real driveshaft shop. They will also need a tailshaft to center of carrier bearing and center of carrier bearing to center of rear ujoint measurement from YOUR truck. Unless you have adjustable suspension don't fall for the hype of the billet/poly carrier bearing that also requires a slip and stubin your rear shaft. Now would be a great time to get some spicer 5-1310 non greaseable ujoints as well.
Assuming you have a light duty carrier bearing setup....

[rockyrivermark]

Originally Posted by brad_man_72

The driveshaft shop will need all of the driveshaft assembled to PROPERLY balance the shaft. This will include the rear section. This is what I do all day every day. If your driveshaft shop says otherwise, slowly turn around and walk out the door with your driveshaft and find a real driveshaft shop. They will also need a tailshaft to center of carrier bearing and center of carrier bearing to center of rear ujoint measurement from YOUR truck. Unless you have adjustable suspension don't fall for the hype of the billet/poly carrier bearing that also requires a slip and stubin your rear shaft. Now would be a great time to get some spicer 5-1310 non greaseable ujoints as well.
Assuming you have a light duty carrier bearing setup....

ok.. thanks for the good info!
RRM

[rockyrivermark]

The short bed conversion went well. The kit is definitely pricey but makes the process pretty darn easy.
2 small things if someone here uses the kit.
Leave bolts loose on backer plate so you can slide it back together easier with some wiggle room
The kit relocated the rear cab mounts 12 3/8". Should have been 12" and bolt was slight angle to get in. I questioned this but drilled exactly where template showed. Worked out anyway. Ur they have thau part a bit off.
RRM
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[rockyrivermark]

I got the driveshaft cut and balance and reinstalled.
12" comes out of the front section of the drive shaft. Went together well.
Bought hugger orange and white today and hope to be in the booth next month. I'll post pics when she's all done.
Thanks for all the great info on this forum.
Awesome resource.
RRM


QUOTE=rockyrivermark;7863662]The short bed conversion went well. The kit is definitely pricey but makes the process pretty darn easy.
2 small things if someone here uses the kit.
Leave bolts loose on backer plate so you can slide it back together easier with some wiggle room
The kit relocated the rear cab mounts 12 3/8". Should have been 12" and bolt was slight angle to get in. I questioned this but drilled exactly where template showed. Worked out anyway. Ur they have thau part a bit off.
RRM
Posted via Mobile Device[/QUOTE]
Posted via Mobile Device

[rockyrivermark]

Originally Posted by rockyrivermark

I got the driveshaft cut and balance and reinstalled.
12" comes out of the front section of the drive shaft. Went together well.
Bought hugger orange and white today and hope to be in the booth next month. I'll post pics when she's all done.
Thanks for all the great info on this forum.
Awesome resource.
RRM


QUOTE=rockyrivermark;7863662]The short bed conversion went well. The kit is definitely pricey but makes the process pretty darn easy.
2 small things if someone here uses the kit.
Leave bolts loose on backer plate so you can slide it back together easier with some wiggle room
The kit relocated the rear cab mounts 12 3/8". Should have been 12" and bolt was slight angle to get in. I questioned this but drilled exactly where template showed. Worked out anyway. Ur they have thau part a bit off.
RRM
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Posted via Mobile Device[/QUOTE]
Posted via Mobile Device

[rockyrivermark]

Dam iPhone pics rotate when. Put online.
Urgh.