C10CJ: A Pro-touring '71 Stepside on a No Limit Pro-C10 Chassis

[1971_c10]

Originally Posted by nuke1

Great build so far!!!!!! loving how it is turning out.

Thanks James!

[1971_c10]

Update ...

I'm getting really close to firing this thing up. The electrical system is 99% done. A few ground wires to finish off and then testing. After testing, finish up the wire braid and get everything mounted with cushion clamps.

Over the last few days I completed the PDM.

Here it is painted up. I also added a mounting hole for my coolant recovery tank.


The back side.


Start of wiring. All metri-Pack 280 terminals so easy to assemble. Just takes time.


All wired up.


All the fuses, relays and circuit breakers installed. All in all this set of boxes houses 12 additional circuits and 6 relays, as planned. Here you can really see the amount of expansion room I've got. I could have crammed it all in one box, but I figured I'd have some expansion room. Notice I also had to go from one hole to 2 holes. Lots of big wires in the bottom hole, like several 10 ga and one 8 ga. So if I need to expand, probably wind up with a 3rd hole or make the top one a little bigger.

[1971_c10]

To feed that PDM, I needed a power feeding setup. If you recall from way back when, I mentioned I was going to install some studs so I could easily move the battery once I figure out where I want it. So here's the final solution. I still have some cleanup work to do, but this is good enough for testing and to get the engine fired up. I need to fab a new battery box/hold down as the current one over the years suffered from corrosion and was very thin in part. I wound up blowing the factory battery mount apart by drilling the spot welds out. The bottom was the only piece in bad shape. I'm currently thinking about getting one of these pre-cut units and welding it to the factory side pieces.

So here's the power feed board. There are two different power feeds here. The primary feed, which is the two large studs at the bottom, provide power to the fuse block and PDM as well as tie in the alternator. That circuit is protected by a 200 amp midi fuse. The other feed is the ECU feed. The ECU wants clean power. So to get clean power it needs to go straight to the battery. So that's the MAXI fuse up top. The MAXI provides power to the ECU and vintage air/Dakota digital controllers. It is a completely separate power circuit from everything, so the possibility of getting disrupting electrical transients should be minimized. Looks a little messy because I do plan to either paint or polish that aluminum backing plate so it will come apart shortly after I get the engine fired up. Plus found out my engine ground is too short if I put my inner fender in, but that's an easy fix.


I also got the transmission harness redone. Going to EFI, I'm letting the ECU control the bits of the trans it can control, which in this case is the torque converter clutch. But, I had to re-wire the guts and redo the harness to send the 4th gear signal to the ECU and so forth. It's also got my speedo tied in.


And the last harness to make was the fuel tank. Here it is. I may wind up dropping the tank so I can put a cable clamp down in there to keep the connector from beating itself up. Overall I'm pretty happy with how the electrical is turning out.


A couple shots just showing some more of the routing. I'm using the Painless Performance Classic Braid to cover everything up. I really like the look of it and it seems to almost look OEM like. Or maybe that's my OCD. Ha!

[nuke1]

Chris, gotta love how wiring can be so time consuming hey, I try to tell customers that is is the worst job on the entire vehicle, so tedious and time consuming just to make it all look great, hidden and accessible at the same time. Love it btw!!!!

[crakarjax]

Originally Posted by 1971_c10

Right on! Maybe we could do some code trading if you're up to it. Of course, I need to write some first. Are you switching to python b/c you're not familiar with the depths of C? In the arduino IDE, just make your own header file and include it and BAM! you've got the world of C open to you (until the compiler gets stuck). I find C much more realtime friendly and I can control memory way better with C if I need to. Or if you're running out of space in the Arduino (assuming you're using an Uno or similar?) the Teensy is an arduino conforming board but that's it. 32 bits, 96 MHz clock speed, tons of memory and I/O out the wazoo on a smaller form factor. The thing that amazes me is how fast the Teensy boots compared to my Uno. I have a simple test code for RGB pixels, and when I plug the Uno in to the USB it boots in about a second from once the USB makes initial contact. The Teensy boots and is running before I even get the USB fully plugged in. You could also check out the adafruit feather series boards as you can get wifi and bluetooth on those things. Seems you could replicate the Accuair e-level setup if you got sporty enough (and wanted to go that far). The boot time is the only thing I'd caution on the Pi. Even stripped down, the Pi still takes several seconds to boot. I digress ...

Yeah, would love to collaborate! That teensy looks awesome, I really needed more I/O ports and you're right, that thing has plenty! I'm most likely going to do a hybrid arduino/pi setup because of that startup time issue (which I hadn't though of!), the lack of many I/O ports on the pi, and the expected complexity of the codebase. I wrote a library for the arduino to do wear-leveling in the EEPROM because I was going to store ride height data in it, but after finishing that project I realized how much time I had just spent so that I could do something that is natively available on the pi... and I hope to run a ton of stuff on the pi, be able to update the code remotely via wifi, put together a bluetooth app etc..

[1971_c10]

Originally Posted by nuke1

Chris, gotta love how wiring can be so time consuming hey, I try to tell customers that is is the worst job on the entire vehicle, so tedious and time consuming just to make it all look great, hidden and accessible at the same time. Love it btw!!!!

Thanks again! Yes Sir! You know it!

[1971_c10]

Originally Posted by crakarjax

Yeah, would love to collaborate! That teensy looks awesome, I really needed more I/O ports and you're right, that thing has plenty! I'm most likely going to do a hybrid arduino/pi setup because of that startup time issue (which I hadn't though of!), the lack of many I/O ports on the pi, and the expected complexity of the codebase. I wrote a library for the arduino to do wear-leveling in the EEPROM because I was going to store ride height data in it, but after finishing that project I realized how much time I had just spent so that I could do something that is natively available on the pi... and I hope to run a ton of stuff on the pi, be able to update the code remotely via wifi, put together a bluetooth app etc..

Nice! I took a scan at the lib, you already know what I'm talking about! And I don't mean to knock the Pi. I love my Pi B v2. It ran my Christmas lights this year like a champ and is still out in the garage chugging away running a flood light until I pull it down. I'm hoping things settle down so I can tackle some of these other projects. You'll see the excitement in the next post ...

[1971_c10]

Ok all ... The electrical system is FINISHED! and TESTED!

It's been a long time since these gauges saw power. I've got all the circuits I can test before running the engine tested. I've intentionally had the fuel pump disconnected as there is no fuel in the tank and the pump would not like that.



Need to figure out where these two are going to go. That little Dakota Digital Heater/AC control is going to be awesome. Just set a temp and it adjusts the unit to maintain that temp.


Soon ... that tach will say something other than 0 RPM.


Priming the LS ... yep, it can be done. I followed some directions here loosely, and did not put a hose on the oil pan. That was why their system didn't work as it restricted the flow too much. They also used too large of a bucket so the oil pickup would come uncovered. My mods:
-3 gallon bucket
-No return tubes, just a funnel under the oil pan to catch the oil and return to the bucket
-Total cost, about $60.

The SBC oil pump is perfect. Why? because a 1/4" NPT taps goes right in to the pump output without any drilling. Seriously, I put the pump in a vise and tapped away. It was harder to install the pickup tube.

Oh, and boy was that fun at the autoparts store getting the SBC oil pump. I walked in, there were 3 of them, a younger one helped me (let's say early 20s):
Clerk:How can I help you?
Me: I need a SBC oil pump.
Clerk: What year vehicle?
Me: (holding a straight face) A 2017 Home Depot 3 gallon bucket
Clerk: (just stared at me)
The others: one started laughing, the other was dumbfounded
Me: (I finally smiled)
Clerk: Ok, seriously...
Me: I was being serious.
Clerk: (finally started laughing)
Me: It's a priming bucket for an LS
Clerk: I gotcha
Me: Let's just go with a 1972 Chevy 1/2 ton van with a 350

I'll say, this thing works great so far. I was getting around 40 psi of oil pressure as measured through the gauge/ECU. LS engines are actually a bear to prime. They can take over 15 minutes of constant priming and manual crank rotation to get all the circuits primed. Hence why many guys just pull the plugs and roll it over until they get pressure. I'm old school I guess.


The bucket just feeds right in to the plug on the driver side of the block at the oil pump.


Oh, and I did roll this thing over briefly when I checked the starter. Um, it's like a dragon stuck in a cave fighting to get out. I mean, it hit hard. I could feel EVERY.SINGLE.COMPRESSION.STROKE. Three to be exact. I don't know if my 10 yr old yellow top Optima is going to like this one.

[67cheby]

very cool build, nice work on all the details!

[1971_c10]

Originally Posted by 67cheby

very cool build, nice work on all the details!

Thank you sir! Much respect for you and your builds!

[aggie91]

Just finished checking out your build thread. Great job. Thanks for sharing the info on the PDM's. Looking back, I wish I would have done it with the parts you used. I did a quick and dirty set up that works, but just does not look as clean. I might have to redo it some day when I decide that looks are important...lol.

[1971_c10]

Originally Posted by aggie91

Just finished checking out your build thread. Great job. Thanks for sharing the info on the PDM's. Looking back, I wish I would have done it with the parts you used. I did a quick and dirty set up that works, but just does not look as clean. I might have to redo it some day when I decide that looks are important...lol.

Thanks Karl! An old quote (not mine) from back in the day seems fitting ... "Looks don't make it go and paint just make it slow" -on some dudes drag car back in the '90s at Bandimere Speedway in CO.

[1971_c10]

C10CJ is ALIVE!!!!

That Don Hardy Stroked LS fired right up the 1st try!

A major milestone for the truck.

Now setting the sites on the LMC C10 Nationals in May. Who wants to join me?

C10CJ 1st Fire Up - YouTube

[jus2qwk]

coreyjonesdesigns sells panels that go in place of the factory heater controls that fit that heater control

[gringoloco]

Beastly, congrats!

[1971_c10]

Originally Posted by jus2qwk

coreyjonesdesigns sells panels that go in place of the factory heater controls that fit that heater control

Thanks for the info! To be honest, I haven't decided where to put it as I really want it where the ash tray is located. So as part of phase 2, I'll probably (purists cringe) cut out the whole center area and make a new layout that houses a double DIN radio, the AC controller, and then blends down to the console. But that's a few years down the road at this point, but things change and a good buddy now has what he needs to make dies for his pullmax. Hence why I'm dragging my feet some.

I've never dealt with aluminide material. Can it be sanded smooth? I'll definitely keep you in mind though when I get to deciding on something for the near term.

Originally Posted by gringoloco

Beastly, congrats!

Thanks Chris!

[jus2qwk]

thats cool brother. just thought Id pass along some info. yes it can. its super easy to sand.

[1971_c10]

Originally Posted by jus2qwk

thats cool brother. just thought Id pass along some info. yes it can. its super easy to sand.

Thanks again! If I stick to the "stock" location you're at the top of the list for sure!

[1971_c10]

Hey all ... I tossed together a short video on that priming bucket in case you have some interest in seeing a few more details.

LS Oil Prime Bucket - YouTube

[crakarjax]

Originally Posted by 1971_c10

Ok, back to seriousness. Here's the PDM parts list

Just re-read this and wanted to say that you saved me like 5 evening of research with that post, I'm always unfortunately becoming an expert on mods I make and that takes up most of the time in my build. So thanks, that level of detail is much appreciated!

[1971_c10]

Originally Posted by crakarjax

Just re-read this and wanted to say that you saved me like 5 evening of research with that post, I'm always unfortunately becoming an expert on mods I make and that takes up most of the time in my build. So thanks, that level of detail is much appreciated!

No Problem! Glad to help!

[1971_c10]

Ok Guys! It's Official!! C10CJ is signed up for the C10 Nationals May 4-5 @ Texas Motor Speedway. The first major goal has been set!

[Ramjet51]

Originally Posted by 1971_c10

C10CJ is ALIVE!!!!

That Don Hardy Stroked LS fired right up the 1st try!

A major milestone for the truck.

Now setting the sites on the LMC C10 Nationals in May. Who wants to join me?

C10CJ 1st Fire Up - YouTube

Fan-damn-tastic Chris!!! You had to be just trembling when that happened! This is one prime truck and we appreciate all the great information, I wish you speed in making that May date....you’re giving me ideas for a trip! Received my Waytek order the other day.....going to be fun! Thanks a million...

[crakarjax]

Originally Posted by kxmotox247

Do you remember what your overall rear end width was with your brakes? I ordered mine a little more narrow than stock to get maximum backspace.

Out of curiosity, why would you want maximum backspace? I know on the front you'd want a backspace that minimized scrub radius if possible but I've never given the rear much thought.

[knomadd]

Originally Posted by 1971_c10

Ok Guys! It's Official!! C10CJ is signed up for the C10 Nationals May 4-5 @ Texas Motor Speedway. The first major goal has been set!

Congratulations Chris! That's a great milestone achievement!

Originally Posted by crakarjax

Out of curiosity, why would you want maximum backspace? I know on the front you'd want a backspace that minimized scrub radius if possible but I've never given the rear much thought.

I'm guessing here, but since he said he ordered a slightly narrower than stock rearend, I think he meant minimum backspacing to get a bigger wheel lip.