65 Old School Build on a Budget

[protrash64]

I believe you can do it either way. If you are getting rid of the engine, you could clean up the 84 front end and have it ready. Pull the engine and then get rid of your factory x-member, then reverse for assembly. You can also just bolt on the a-arms, too.

Im not sure about the 6-lug disc interchange; maybe info in the disk conversion sticky......Ive never read thru the whole thing.

Sway bar should work by adding frame mounts and using the factory mounts on the a-arms.

[TimE]

On the discs, just buy the 6 lug replacements that are used in the kits from one of the aftermarket suppliers.

[Captainfab]

I like to use the later suspension, crossmember and all. Partly because the newer lower control arm U bolts are bigger.....I've had the stock '66 ones on my Suburban break....twice! Yes the sway bar will work, just use the brackets from the '84 frame on your frame. You can also use the newer style motor mounts....I like them better as well. You can buy 6 lug rotors for the '84 spindles from CPP for one.

[Old School Kid]

Thanks for all the good info guys...

Started tearing apart the front end and am having trouble getting the lower ball joint out... I'm going to stay with the 65 a arm and use the 84 spindles and new upper and lower control arms.... got everything apart and ready just having trouble getting the 65 lower ball joint out... Heated, wacked and wacked some more, no luck..

Any suggestions would be great. I'm going to be back at it in the morning...Help! Got a long list to do and not enough time.....

[19GMC63]

I had the same troubles with my lower ball joints... a scissor-jack made quick work of mine. Just leave the castle nut on the threads so things don't go flying everywhere when it breaks loose.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by Old School Kid

Thanks for all the good info guys...

Started tearing apart the front end and am having trouble getting the lower ball joint out... I'm going to stay with the 65 a arm and use the 84 spindles and new upper and lower control arms.... got everything apart and ready just having trouble getting the 65 lower ball joint out... Heated, wacked and wacked some more, no luck..

Any suggestions would be great. I'm going to be back at it in the morning...Help! Got a long list to do and not enough time.....

They are pressed in. Call autozone and see if they have a ball joint service kit that they will rent. They used to rent tools. If you have the a arm out of the truck I would at least temporarily mount it back on the crossmember. Unless you have someone that will help you hold it while your trying to press it out and in. I pressed my new ones in while out of the truck it was a PITA. Here is a LINKY to what the tool looks like. I just checked autozone does still rent tools here is the LINK

Do you mean ball joints where I high lited in red in your message?

[Alan's Classic]

Just checking to make sure you are that you are trying to get the ball joint out of the a arm. I might have miss read your post. Maybe your trying to the ball joint out of the spindle.

[Old School Kid]

Thanks Alan, Yes I was refering to the ball joint... Trying to get it out of the lower control arm on the 65, I'm going to use the existing A arms.. Thnaks for the info I will go check the store for the kit today..

I hit it hard Yesterday, pulled the front clip, motor, spindles off the 84, sway bar off the 84 and steering linkage off the 84 then started to take apart the existing a arms... Alll by myself. My new motor is ready and I'm trying to get the newer brakes mounted, newer 2 piston master cylinder and brake lines so I can drop it in..

Pictures will come thanks for the help..

[Old School Kid]

I forgot to confirm, JUST WANT TO MAKE SURE THAT I DO REMOVE THE REAR MOTOR MOUNT SUPPORT WHEN GONG TO A 350 WITH AUTOMATIC? CAN I REMOVE JUST THE CENTER SECTION OR DO I NEED TO REMOVE ALL OF IT, SINCE THE RIVETS ON THE UPPER SIDES ARE GOING TO BE A HARD TO IMPOSSIBLE TO GET TO?

Also can I , do I move the motor mount to the forward hole ( drill new for lower hole on bracket) to allow for more room at distributor? (using a long water pump, if that matters)

Thanks y'all, you are the only sounding board I have. Im a newbie at this.. Hopefully today will be as productive as yesterday..

[Captainfab]

I would remove the entire bellhousing crossmember if at all possible. It's not absolutely necessary for the trans to fit, but it just looks nicer. If however it just isn't possible for you to accomplish, try to cut it as close to the frame as you can. The motor mount brackets can stay in that position for the V8.....that's where they had them for the factory installation of the V8. The distributor to firewall clearance is just fine with an HEI.

[Old School Kid]

Thanks Alan, that tool is great, Advanced had a set that I bought/rented.. Thanks for that I would probally be still out there beating them..

Captianfab great info, one less thing that I have to move(motor mounts)...

Power steering will have to be down the road, next is the task of brake lines(yikes)

1st question.. Does CPP actually make a set of rotors that fit my 84 spindles with 6 lug (2wd)??

2nd Question... Brakes.. I mounted the 2 chamber(?) master cylinder, now I have to run new brakes lines... Do I need to use a proportioning valve??, feeling a little overwhelmed with the brakes lines and ALL that I have to figure out.. What is the easiest,cheapest, safest, no brainerest,etc way to do this?

I'm just a carport mechanic? Help ME please!

[protrash64]

O/S/K......guess who???? .......look at my pic on page 4 of your thread. The black box near my ms/cyl is a rear bias valve from Wilwood. You dont have to run one of the stock contraptions if you dont have one. Ive seen these valves for 40-50 bucks. It varies pressure to the rear, fronts are all on. Dont know if manual or power brakes are different.

Also, Cap'nfab was correct, but you can move up the engine to the forward position if you want...nobody seems to do it, but it works. You would have to lengthen your driveshaft, however.

[Captainfab]

Don't get overwhelmed with the brake lines they're not that complicated. Are you using the master cylinder off of the '84 you got? do you have the proportioning valve and lines from the '84 also? If so just follow the layout of the factory '84 lines. I've seen guys use the newer lines on the older trucks and it doesn't look bad. You may need to add a bracket underneath the radiator crossmember to bolt the prop valve to.

If you don't have the '84 prop valve then just do as protrash64 suggested and just run an adjustable prop valve in the rear line. The writeup that Chiefrocka did on the brake lines is really good and should answer most questions for you, if not we're here for ya.

[Old School Kid]

Little updated......... Looked at the brakes and made a little bit of a plan, doesn't seem like it will be toooo bad... Just need to take my time... I just want it to look perfect!!

of course my next problem are the wheels... Being that I now have the 5 lug up front, my six lug set up will no work... Called CPP and they only offer 6 lug rotors for the HEAVY DUTY rotors (1 1/4" thick)... and of course mine are the 7/8-1" version. This is something that I wish I had known when looking for my donor... So my next question is... Does anyone know where to get 6 lug rotors for light duty 84 spindles? I sure hope so!

I started to research different wheels (BUDGET), I thought and would be perfectlly happy with running the same wheel up front but with a five lug. Just not that easy.... This is the onl;y thing that I could come up with, just too many slots on the outside ring... What do you all think? Any wheels out there just like the red ones but 5 lug? Thanks for you hjelp I need to get this thing rolling again..

[MikeN]

Taylor, there's a place over on South Cobb Drive called Metro Wheels that may be able to help. I bought some 15 X 7 and 15 X 8 reproduction Rally wheels from them for my Chevelle (see photo) and the prices were reasonable, like $57 per wheel. They can tell you if what you are looking for is available. They are on South Cobb between Atlanta Rd. and Austell Rd.



There's also a place about a 1/2 mile down South Cobb Drive from Metro Wheels that has a huge inventory of used wheels. The place is called Hubcap Annie. I have bought from them before as well.

[Captainfab]

What about just swapping the spindles for the ones for the 1 1/4" rotors? Or is that easier said than done where you're located? There is another option for 6 lug front discs using '88-'98 parts, but it requires changing more than just spindles. I'm going to be doing this to my Burb this summer. Here is a link to the thread about it.
http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...ad.php?t=35042

[Old School Kid]

Great Mike, I don't know why I didn't think of Hub Cap Annie... I bought a rim from them a few years ago... I'll check them out and then make it down to metro wheels... Thanks Car looks great....

Captianfab, I saw that thread just last night... I just am so far into this set up... I have everything mounted except disks and calipers... (new ball joints)

Just finished the brake lines. Not perfect, but it will have to do for now..... Couple more coats of flat black and I would even see all the inperfections... Yup! I do have clearence for the front-end, also have a little room to tweak them if need be.... Thanks for all the input and help!!!

[Captainfab]

Looks like that ought to work.....good job

[ceruzziracing]

Did you come up with a solution/answer to your headers? Getting ready to drop in a 350/TH400 combo, need the same question answered. Think I'm going to get lucky with the brakes and keeping 6 lugs, my donor vehicle is a C20. Thanks, looks like your ride is coming along nicely.

[64c20crewcab]

Read through the yer whole build tonight. Pretty sweet and nice work!

[isdeleon]

its looks awesome, and we couldn't tell it was on a budget unless you told us. it simply looks great!!!

[Old School Kid]

A little update, progress is being made but it never can be as fast as one would like..

Update... Thanks mike headed over to Metro wheels and they hooked me up with a very close set of 5 lug... $50 each not bad.. Thanks again..

ceruzziracing... Haven't been on in a while and just saw your post.. I again took MikeN suggestion and went with the Hooker Headers, called up Summit and they were at my door the next day,, Just told them the year and motor. The fitment is great and quality is very nice, they are a lkong tube header, but really dont hang too low below the frame rail. If your going to lay frame these would be a good option...

Well its back together and I fired it up, did the break in, shut it down and then tried to restart for a little tuning and timing, dead battery ( alt check out fine... off to the parts store for a new battery tom... always something!)

Tried to make a little video, hope it works..... Plan is to time, tune a little.. Then its off to get exhaust... I have a set of black flowmaster 44s waiting just need a little pipe work done... currentlly headers only

As always thanks for all your help, I read and read and read everyones input. The forum search button is getting a workout!!!!

YouTube - 1965 Chevy pick-up (Old School Kid) 1

[protrash64]

Looking really good!!!!!!!!!!!!

[MikeN]

Lookiing good Taylor. Glad Metro Wheels was able to help, and glad the Hookers worked out. I'm sure we'll hook up at a cruise or something this summer, would love to see your truck in person.

[Old School Kid]

Thanks all for your help and commetns... Its been a little while since an update.. Just workin out the bugs!

I do have a question that I hope someone can help me with..

I replaced the spindles with 84 light duty spindles and rotors, new calipers, new pads and the existing rotors looked good so I left them alone for now..... used the prop valve from the 84 c-10 and the master cylinder for the Hell Camino with no booster......

The problem that I am having is that is stops terrible, so bad that I'm afraid to drive it anywhere.. I had this idea that it was going to lock up the fronts when I really got on them ( I currentlly don't have the rears hooked up due that I am waiting on parts for the rear brakes) What in the setup might be causing the problem??

Need brakes... Any input as always would be helpful, I want to drive this thing Badd!!!