3/4 Ton - Front end rebuild vs disc brake conversion

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by lil hoodlum

I'm fairly certain your front end that you just bought is a 1971-1972 C20. The control arm cups are different on the 1973+

Could be, I wouldn’t know. However, the guy I bought it from has a shop, they’re installing LS motors in different classics; like 1940 Chevy pickup, a really cool old Cadillac. He definitely knows what he’s doing. He told me it was from his old 1974 3/4 ton.

He also builds those little three wheeled beer cart conversions.

[Captainfab]

Sorry but no that is not a '71-'72 C20 suspension. The dust shields, brake hoses and engine mounts are '73+

Originally Posted by lil hoodlum

I'm fairly certain your front end that you just bought is a 1971-1972 C20. The control arm cups are different on the 1973+

[Asshat]

More questions...


I’m thinking I should buy new parts, so can I go to Rock Auto for these?
Power Steering gear:
I want a quicker ratio, I think the new ones are 3 to 3-1/4 turns?
Is there a better place to buy one of these?
Will I need to get a bracket to mount the steering gear, like Captain Fabs?

Pitman arm:
Will I need a special one for a quick turn steering gear, or the stock one is ok?

Power steering pump:
Some of these don’t have reservoirs, which is best?
Anything special about the PS pump and bracket for a 292 inline 6?
Hoses - ok to buy from Rock Auto?

[cwcarpenter98]

Yes, you could unbolt your current front crossmember, roll it out, then roll the new one in. You would need to figure out a way to support the engine though since you'll be taking the lower support of the engine mounts away

[lil hoodlum]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Sorry but no that is not a '71-'72 C20 suspension. The dust shields, brake hoses and engine mounts are '73+

I knew the engine mounts were the updated "clam style". After furthering reviewing the photos, I now see the flexible brake hose goes through the frame rail. I didn't catch that earlier. The '71-'72 C20 uses a hard brake line mounted on the front of the suspension crossmember.

I apologize for any confusion.

[CousinTone]

Originally Posted by Asshat

I did check if I could use my existing front end - there is a local company that will take my spindles and trun them down so I can fit rotors, etc. However, the cost is $900; that's just turning the spindles, doesn't include rotors, calipers, etc. I'm hoping I can get all the parts for 73-87 C20 (Rock Auto) to do this cheaper than that.

Hey asshat, I’m up in Placentia and looking for quality machine shop. What’s the info of the one you found down south? I can be an extra set of hands if you ever need help. Love helping other board members and an pretty good mechanical knowledge. I’ve also got C20 and having same decisions ahead. Let me know. Tony...feel free to pm me and we can talk live if you’d like.

[Asshat]

Can I remove the ball joints with the front cross member on the ground? Is a spring compressor required? Are straps ok to hold the springs?

I’m thinking I should replace the upper and lower control arm bushings too. Is this fairly easy?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Asshat

Can I remove the ball joints with the front cross member on the ground? Is a spring compressor required? Are straps ok to hold the springs?

I’m thinking I should replace the upper and lower control arm bushings too. Is this fairly easy?

You 'can' but it will add complexity for safety w/o the vehicle weight as a factor.

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

You 'can' but it will add complexity for safety w/o the vehicle weight as a factor.

So maybe wait till it’s on the truck?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Asshat

So maybe wait till it’s on the truck?

It's do-able. Disassembly for sure so you can clean & refurbish as desired. Reassembly (putting the coils back in place) is where it will become a PITA.