1952 Chevy Vette Farm Truck Build

[STOCKISH]

Looks fantastic my friend, keep at it!

[T bone]

Hi Sid,
I'm curious to know why most builders using the C4 rear opt to replace the mono leaf in favor of coil overs?
Some considerations I'm aware of include:
-better adjustability characteristics of coils
-higher replacement cost of mono if needed
-possible leaf interference with drive line elements
-leaf more easily damaged by heat and engine fluids

Are there other considerations I've missed? What were the major factors in your decision?
Thanks

[gearhead2069]

Hey buddy, your chassis looks clean! Fantastic! You have got some seriously impressive skill!

Have you figured out a fix for a rear sway/torsion bar? I think I have figured out what to do with the front and from what a lot of people have told me, due to the rear being so light, it doesn't really need a rear. I guess the more I think about it the more I get irritated. Have any ideas?

[FarmerSid]

Originally Posted by oldman3

Sid, frame looks great, sons in the shop, couldn't ask for more....Jim

Thanks Jim. Glad to have the boys out with me.

[FarmerSid]

Originally Posted by 99 to Life

looks saaawweeeett. Your doing kids right by even having them around this stuff at all, let alone actually getting their hands on it.

Thanks 99. The oldest learned how to use the chop saw to cut some 2X4 tubing for me. The sparks and loud kinda made him nervous at first but is now asking if I need anything cut.

[FarmerSid]

Originally Posted by STOCKISH

Looks fantastic my friend, keep at it!

Thanks Josh! Good to see you around. So...what are you up to now that you sold your truck?

[FarmerSid]

Originally Posted by T bone

Hi Sid,
I'm curious to know why most builders using the C4 rear opt to replace the mono leaf in favor of coil overs?
Some considerations I'm aware of include:
-better adjustability characteristics of coils
-higher replacement cost of mono if needed
-possible leaf interference with drive line elements
-leaf more easily damaged by heat and engine fluids

Are there other considerations I've missed? What were the major factors in your decision?
Thanks

I don't really know exactly why but I had some of the same considerations you did. I like the cleaner look of no leaf spring as well. That all I have for you T bone.

[FarmerSid]

Originally Posted by gearhead2069

Hey buddy, your chassis looks clean! Fantastic! You have got some seriously impressive skill!

Have you figured out a fix for a rear sway/torsion bar? I think I have figured out what to do with the front and from what a lot of people have told me, due to the rear being so light, it doesn't really need a rear. I guess the more I think about it the more I get irritated. Have any ideas?

Thanks Gearhead! What do you mean fix for the rear sway bar? I haven't put too much thought in it but the frame rail is directly above the inside portion of the bracket that is bolted to the IRS. I would have to make new end links of some sort to connect the bar to the IRS. Same with the front. Not too much room between the tie rod and coil over to install the end link. Both the front and rear end links are big and bulky.

Don't get too irritated. That's a sign to take a break. Keep it fun. I'm getting used to doing things over 2 -3 times now. LOL!

What's your idea for the front sway bar?

[FarmerSid]

I have a couple pictures to share but will post a bunch more when I get a bunch more done.


Exhaust ports







Curving the frame cross members. What a job!








Curved cross members finished with exhaust ports mocked up to see what they look like.








I've made two more exhaust ports for the front that go under the curved portion of the cross members. The transmission mount will be bolted in the curved portion. I will make a 6" ID round drive shaft port/opening at the rear to tie everything together. Don't need too big of an opening as the drive shaft will be in a stationary position.

Go ahead and critique my work and idea's as I may be over looking things. Any thoughts on brake and fuel line routing?

[gearhead2069]

Originally Posted by FarmerSid

Thanks Gearhead! What do you mean fix for the rear sway bar? I haven't put too much thought in it but the frame rail is directly above the inside portion of the bracket that is bolted to the IRS. I would have to make new end links of some sort to connect the bar to the IRS. Same with the front. Not too much room between the tie rod and coil over to install the end link. Both the front and rear end links are big and bulky.

Don't get too irritated. That's a sign to take a break. Keep it fun. I'm getting used to doing things over 2 -3 times now. LOL!

What's your idea for the front sway bar?

Flat-Out (the set up I went with as I don't think I have your skill) didn't really have a sway bar solution so I've been trying to come up with ways to fix the issue. I was searching around and I found this:

http://www.welderseries.com/blog/onl.../sway-bar-kit/

Which is pretty pricy for what it is, but I don't think it would be difficult to fabricate. I really like how Nerd Rods did theirs and I don't see why that wouldn't be feasible.





For the rear, once again, it looks like Nerd Rods has worked something out but I'm just not entirely sure how I feel about the bracket being welded to the lower trailing arm. Seems to me that mounting point would be a bit of a weak spot but maybe a modified version of that idea. I don't know, I was thinking about mounting it somewhere around where the old shock mount is. Just kind of making it an extension of the new cool over mount. Like I said... Just pondering for a solution.

[FarmerSid]

Ya, I'm going to have to come up with something the same as Nerd rods in the first picture. I don't care for the rear though. I think I should be able to put the sway bar on top of the frame and make end links to connect in the stock location. I think I'm going to add mounts to the frame front and rear so I'm ready to go if I need or decide to run them.

[gearhead2069]

Originally Posted by FarmerSid

Ya, I'm going to have to come up with something the same as Nerd rods in the first picture. I don't care for the rear though. I think I should be able to put the sway bar on top of the frame and make end links to connect in the stock location. I think I'm going to add mounts to the frame front and rear so I'm ready to go if I need or decide to run them.

Sounds good. Can't wait to see how things turn out. Keep up the good work!

[windows]

Nice fab work, Sid. Really like what you're doing.

[Advanced Design]

Great fabrication Sid. Crossmember looks really good. Can you run your brake and fuel lines just under the crossmember? An alternative is along the top if there is room. Of course that could make it more difficult to change them out in the future if needed.

[99 to Life]

very nice

[FarmerSid]

Thanks all! AD, there's 1 3/4" space there to run lines. Should be enough room using both sides.

Big change to the cross members. A buddy stopped by and thought that things would "flow" better if I curved both ends so that's what I did. I like it better but a better part of the day was spent modifying them. I'll get some pictures up soon.

[solidaxel]

The fuel lines went inside the box frame and the brake lines went outside

[FarmerSid]

Thanks solidaxel. Gave me a few idea's.

[FarmerSid]

So......as I mentioned before, a buddy convinced me to curve the rear portion of the inside cross members. Here's how they turned out. You can also see the exhaust ports tacked in place to see what things look like.

[FarmerSid]

Here's a few of where the trans mount will go and where a drive shaft loop type thing will go but mostly to tie things together and stiffen things up. The blue tape represents the approx. trans mount location. The second picture is the rear where the drive shaft loop thing will go. Anybody have any design idea's for the trans mount and loop they want to share?








Anybody see any issues that I don't?

Now I have to make two more exhaust ports for the right side now that the rear portion is angled. What do you all think of them?

[FarmerSid]

I'm really terrible at taking pictures. Here's one of the overall frame to date.

[99 to Life]

thats one clean and nice looking frame.

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by FarmerSid

Anybody have any design idea's for the trans mount and loop they want to share?

What if you used DOM tubing, maybe 1-1/2", to make both pieces. Make the trans mount a half circle, and the driveshaft loop a full circle, but the same dimensions otherwise. Weld a plate on the tubing where it lies against the upright section of the frame, and bolt through that, two bolts per side. That way you have a consistent theme, and you keep your nice smooth bends in the center section.

On second thought, maybe I should draw a sketch; I'm not sure I even understand what that says, and I wrote it!

[Chevy-49]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

The fuel lines went inside the box frame and the brake lines went outside

Looking nice, perhaps any pictures of the exhaust system?
Did you end before or after the rear axle?

[FarmerSid]

Originally Posted by JJorgensen52

What if you used DOM tubing, maybe 1-1/2", to make both pieces. Make the trans mount a half circle, and the driveshaft loop a full circle, but the same dimensions otherwise. Weld a plate on the tubing where it lies against the upright section of the frame, and bolt through that, two bolts per side. That way you have a consistent theme, and you keep your nice smooth bends in the center section.

On second thought, maybe I should draw a sketch; I'm not sure I even understand what that says, and I wrote it!

Good idea. Not too sure the round tubing would look right. Maybe....something to think about for sure.