Newb Questions on Primer and Paint

[truckster]

After seven years of being without my Blazer, I'm finally getting it back on the road. New engine, wiring harness, cooling system, body mount bushings, etc.

When I took the front clip off, I intended to paint the whole truck, but I don't want to take the time to do that right now. I have two replacement fenders that someone else sandblasted - the surface is pretty rough - and a hood that just need spot filler where the usual rock chips are.

I've been told I need a high-build primer. What's best for a newb to use, and will I be wasting my time trying to make the sandblasted sheet metal smooth? I want the paint to be as simple as I can make it. I'm going to match the tub color (dark yellow 519) and I'm just planning on spraying the fenders and hood; any extra I'll put on the body where it needs it most. So, single-stage urethane?

There is a National Coatings and Supplies store, a Sherwin-Williams automotive paint store, an independent chain (Jones Paint and Glass) and a discount auto paint store all within a short distance. Is there any particular one that I should go to or a particular one to avoid? Is there anything else I need to know before I buy the materials? I have a decent compressor, a CH HVLP gun, and a line dryer.

I'm open to any help here, and very appreciative of it. I'm looking for a 20-footer, not a show finish, so it doesn't need to be perfect. Thanks for your input.

[mongocanfly]

When you say the fenders are ruff, are you talking about the feel of the surface or damage done by the blasting ?...
If they've been sandblasted then you def need epoxy on the bare metal after all the rust is removed..
Then take care of any body work that needs adressed..i like the evercoat line of body filler...then your higbuild..then when it's to your satisfaction, paint..
It may be hard to get new paint to match old..keep that in mind...
Dont use parts store paint...it took 3 times but I learned my lesson about that
I'm using sherwin William's auto motive on mine...using single stage...I'm happy with the results..
Make sure you have a good regulator at the gun
You'll need several size tips for the gun...1.7 for primers and 1.3 for paint is what I'm using
I've had operator errors to overcome on mine, but I'm satisfied.

[truckster]

Yes, the fenders are straight but the surface is rough.

I know I won't get a perfect match on the paint. The tub has been partially repainted some time in the past, so it's not a perfect match anyway. A really nice paint job is a future project. Right now I want to get it on the road, so I'm trying not to let "perfect" be the enemy of "good".

[mongocanfly]

As long as there isnt any rust on your fenders ,then ruff is what you want...that gives the primer some tooth to bite into..if there is no bodywork needed I would spray with epoxy and the next day shoot it with highbuild while your still in the recoat window...thatll save you some sanding...by the time you get all your primer on it will be slick..

[lupo]

If you looking for Longevity apply 2 coats of Permanent rust sealer followed by 2 coats of the surfacing primer. Be sure to use the aluminum pigmented formulation as this is the one that's airtight that's designed as a primer. Block sand the surfacing primer and then apply your color. This will give you maximum corrosion resistance.

[Foot Stomper]

The ONLY thing to put on bare steel is Epoxy Primer. Period! Anything else is nothing more than a cheap excuse to not use Epoxy Primer and will not give you the long term rust prevention and prevent "rust creep".

As far a which brand to buy, go to the stores in your area and ask the counter staff for help. The ones that give you the time and instruction are the one(s) to support. They will see you through thick and thin... the brands they sell will do well as there are many many good brands available!

[lupo]

Epoxy primer does not stop rust creep. The most powerful primer for corrosion protection is the aluminum pigmented moisture cured primer. This is the only type of primer that is airtight. Epoxy is not. And I base this information on 32 years of industrial coatings experience.

[Foot Stomper]

Originally Posted by lupo

Epoxy primer does not stop rust creep. The most powerful primer for corrosion protection is the aluminum pigmented moisture cured primer. This is the only type of primer that is airtight. Epoxy is not. And I base this information on 32 years of industrial coatings experience.

What brand(s) offer this chemical make up?
Where can they be purchased?
Are they available to the retail market?
Is there a Technical Data Sheet that you can post on this thread?

[lupo]

Originally Posted by Foot Stomper

What brand(s) offer this chemical make up?
Where can they be purchased?
Are they available to the retail market?
Is there a Technical Data Sheet that you can post on this thread?

If you go to the Mastercoat USA.com website all that information is available. There are other brands of moisture cured's and I don't know what type of aluminum pigment they're using. The non-leafing version is the primer. The leafing version is the topcoat which I wouldn't recommend trying to paint over. The non-leafing version dries toothyFor paint adhesion.This is used as your base primer and then use a surfacing primer over it. A lot of restoration shops use this system to prevent comebacks. SILVER DATA (2).pdf

[Foot Stomper]

Originally Posted by lupo

If you go to the Mastercoat USA.com website all that information is available. There are other brands of moisture cured's and I don't know what type of aluminum pigment they're using. The non-leafing version is the primer. The leafing version is the topcoat which I wouldn't recommend trying to paint over. The non-leafing version dries toothyFor paint adhesion.This is used as your base primer and then use a surfacing primer over it. A lot of restoration shops use this system to prevent comebacks. Attachment 2028033

Took some time and went to the website. Spent time reading and looking things over pretty closely... the Technical Data Sheets too.

I spent many years vetting new products for distribution for the auto body/collision repair industry and would not consider this product. It's a spin off of similar more popular products like Por 15 and Chassis Saver who both claim to have something unique but at the end of the day, it's moisture cured urethane.

Epoxy primer is offered by every single paint manufacturer for a number of reasons. SOme of them are:

• ease of application
• proven technology
• long shelf life
• rust prevention - prevents rust creep
• thin film build - not 8ml!
• accepts top coats easily
• can be reduced with standard urethane grade reducer if desired
• many many more reasons

If someone wants to use Master Coat products, they must do so acknowledging they are using a product that has not met the stringent testing and production protocols of a large paint manufacturer and therefore must be willing to accept that the science used is not commonly accepted in the coatings industries and will be taking some risk in doing so.

Maybe if Jay Leno bought the company it would sell like gang busters...or maybe that's what Master Coat is hoping....that some big company will buy the technology... except that'll never happen because they already know the technology and have decided not to pursue it as a rust prevention coating...otherwise they'd market it too.

Maybe Master Coat does more than claimed and I'm missing out on something fabulous ... but I wouldn't risk it. Epoxy primer is proven so I'll stick with that, regardless of brand.

[lupo]

You have it backwards aluminum pigmented moisture cured urethane through Mo Bay chemical was the father of por 15. The rest of them copied por 15 to the letter. When Mo Bay created this primer it only came in one color silver, not pink black purple or yellow. The aluminum flake is critical to cut off the oxygen making it a true rust preventative. This coating system does 20 years outdoors which is something your production body shop is not interested in. Epoxy primer like DP 40 with 7 coats of paint over it will run 500 to a thousand hours of salt spray before deteriorates. As for ease of application. Single component no mixing. Hi film build, application temperatures as low as 35°.This primer is been around since the late seventies has a proven track record. If you go to the blog section you'll see the history of these other products came to be. I personally witnessed the formation these companies

[nsb29]

You two crack me up you are talking 500 hours of salt spray what do you plan on doing parking at on the beach Or driving on salt LMAO. Stumper was recommending paint over rust bridge primer last year at last he is recommending epoxy now. Maybe there’s hope yet and he will learn about slick sand
SPI epoxy and slick sand for your high build!! Don’t buy shop line paints spend the extra For there better paint what ever brand you choose. I prefer PPG Concept

[lupo]

Everybody has their own way of doing things. I've learned more on this message board about paint from all the experts than I have in the last 30 years

[projectking]

Lmao

[nsb29]

Originally Posted by lupo

Everybody has their own way of doing things. I've learned more on this message board about paint from all the experts than I have in the last 30 years

Thanks

[lupo]

[ATTACH][/ATTACH] |This is a car I rebuilt between 1974 in 1978. It's primed with a zinc rich vinyl primer from Martin Senior. No body filler at all on the entire car. This car right now is for sale . It is 1940 LaSalle model 50 coupe for sale in New Jersey..The seller Is advertising this car completely original.. asking 30,000

I painted probably 20 cars I don't own mastercoat or getting money from it. Some people you can educate some you cant Have a nice day

[projectking]

Not everyone wants an education on the times before automotive grade epoxy and you insult us with your “experts” BS...20 cars puts you at hobbyist status. Get with the times or ease up on here.

[lupo]

I did this in 2006 when you were a teenager. This is Mipa epoxy primer over the silver. So dont tell tell me I don't know anything about epoxy. Let's see what you've done

[projectking]

I have nothing to prove to you. Your attitude and butthurt nonsense is old...not as old as you thought. I wasn’t a teenager in ‘06 your math is lousy.

[lupo]

This is what it looks like 13 years later. No rust bubbles anywhere on the car. Paint is still show quality.The only thing I replaced on this car was the hood, both front fenders one door skin, inner and outer rockers on both sides in the trunk. The lower quarter panels And also the front floors. This car was a rust bucket

[Liz]

Lupo.. project king...this ongoing feud ends now or we will have to start taking further action. If you have a valid reason for trolling each other let me know. Otherwise take this as both of your final warning.
Thanks