Battery Cables and Battery Relocation?

[wixthedog]

About to pull the trigger on ordering everything I need for the battery relocation.

My intention is to move the battery to the left side of the toolbox.

Positive will go to a battery disconnect located on the box and then run to the engine bay across the box, through the box/bed, and up the right frame rail.

Ground will run across the box, through the box/bed, and go to frame.

I plan on adding a Ford starter solenoid on the firewall as well. I have not had any issues with heat soak on the starter but it makes for cleaner wiring I think.

My plan is to run 1/O cable on all runs described above and I should have plenty of room for it. From the starter solenoid to the actual start solenoid I will likely reduce cable size to a 1AWG if I think routing the 1/O around the headers and such will be too difficult.

Thoughts? Am I crazy to run 1/O?

[Dead Parrot]

Unless there is some unstated reason for putting the battery on the driver's side of the bed, I would put it on the passenger side. That way the ground cable goes straight down through the bed to a frame ground bolt. The positive cable becomes much shorter as well. I would suggest putting the disconnect switch under the bed rail. Keeps it out of the worst of the sun and rain. From the passenger side, the cables won't be much longer then the OEM cables that run from the front fender corner. Might save the need for 1/0 cables. Just go to the next larger size from OEM.

If you go with the driver's side, get some matching lengths of 1" or 2" square tube and bolt lengthwise to the bottom of the tool box. Will let you run the cables under/behind the box. Still recommend bolting the disconnect under the bed rail. Same for running the ground straight down to the frame.

[cadillac_al]

The stock location is just so darned convenient I would be too lazy to add more cable and another solenoid/failure point.

[wixthedog]

Originally Posted by Dead Parrot

Unless there is some unstated reason for putting the battery on the driver's side of the bed, I would put it on the passenger side. That way the ground cable goes straight down through the bed to a frame ground bolt. The positive cable becomes much shorter as well. I would suggest putting the disconnect switch under the bed rail. Keeps it out of the worst of the sun and rain. From the passenger side, the cables won't be much longer then the OEM cables that run from the front fender corner. Might save the need for 1/0 cables. Just go to the next larger size from OEM.

If you go with the driver's side, get some matching lengths of 1" or 2" square tube and bolt lengthwise to the bottom of the tool box. Will let you run the cables under/behind the box. Still recommend bolting the disconnect under the bed rail. Same for running the ground straight down to the frame.

A couple reasons why my intentions were to mount the disconnect switch in the box on the drivers side: I can reach it easily as I intend on using it when I park sometimes as a theft deterrent of sorts and it will keep cables inside the box rather than departing, re-entering, and then departing.

I had some thought to running the round direct down from the drivers side to reduce length but at that size cable it would be fine running to the passenger side and I would rather keep it to one exit/entry path if possible.

I had the same plan on protecting the cables in the box! Some 1.5" aluminum square bolted inside the box will offer nice protection. I'll have to fab up some sort of dividing wall to keep items away from the battery/switch as well.

Originally Posted by cadillac_al

The stock location is just so darned convenient I would be too lazy to add more cable and another solenoid/failure point.

I've done quite a bit of work to the engine bay and my next task, after this, is to fab up some custom wheels tubs. (Check out my build thread if you like, link in signature). Non-AC truck and no battery makes for a pretty clean look - I hope.

I am still on the fence about the Ford solenoid. I think it does add some value for hot start conditions as you get more amperage to the starter. You also get to reduce wires from around the headers to just the one big one. It would be nice to connect my remote starter switch when doing engine work there instead of crawling under the truck too, but not a 'have to have' kind of thing for sure.

[SCOTI]

Your plans sound good. I relocated mine for similar reasons.

[wixthedog]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Your plans sound good. I relocated mine for similar reasons.

Did you run 1/O cable or 1AWG? I ran some V=IR numbers the easy way and found that there is not much of a difference at start up. The price difference is negligible really.

What I may do is run the 1/O to the solenoid and then the output solenoid to starter stud in 1AWG.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by wixthedog

Did you run 1/O cable or 1AWG? I ran some V=IR numbers the easy way and found that there is not much of a difference at start up. The price difference is negligible really.

What I may do is run the 1/O to the solenoid and then the output solenoid to starter stud in 1AWG.

I purchased it from NAPA so it was 1AWG because it was the biggest they had for making a custom cable. The length on my set-up is not much longer than stock though so that's different (slightly, but different). I also matched the primary ground size @ 1AWG.

All subsequent grounds (6x) were 4ga (motor to frame rails/both sides; core support to frame rails/both sides; cab to frame rails/both sides). Alt to BATT is also 4ga if I remember correctly.

[wixthedog]

Might pull the trigger on ordering everything soon, and I think I settled on 1AWG. The numbers are very close between the two in regard to conductor loss and most folks running 1/O are going from trunk forward, I'm a bit closer than that. I'm not home to measure but I figure its about a 15' run to the firewall or so.

It also keep me from ordering two different size cables for solenoid-starter.

I was planning on 6AWG for heads/cab/core support/fuel tank as well as alternator to battery.

[KQQL IT]

Your charge wire from the alternator should to be on the switched side of the disconnect.
If its switched off while running, will continue to run off the now unregulated alternator.

[wixthedog]

Originally Posted by KQQL IT

Your charge wire from the alternator should to be on the switched side of the disconnect.
If its switched off while running, will continue to run off the now unregulated alternator.

I certainly don't claim to be an expert here so I appreciate the help.

The disconnect is just a two stud switch installed in-line on the positive battery cable. I have heard of what you are talking about but most of that chatter was around race cars and whatever their classification calls for. I do not intend to use the switch as an engine shut off, only a means to kill power when I park or when I need to isolate the battery before working on something.

[rsavage]

When I relocated the battery to the trunk of my '65 Fairlane Hipo, I used welding cable. Worked well for years.

[KQQL IT]

Originally Posted by wixthedog

I certainly don't claim to be an expert here so I appreciate the help.

The disconnect is just a two stud switch installed in-line on the positive battery cable. I have heard of what you are talking about but most of that chatter was around race cars and whatever their classification calls for. I do not intend to use the switch as an engine shut off, only a means to kill power when I park or when I need to isolate the battery before working on something.

I figured it wasn't intended for a kill switch.
If it is switched off the alternator becomes unregulated.

[dagnabbitt]

Having relocated the battery to the passenger side of the bed on my Apache, I can certainly see why you'd prefer it on the driver's side. Having to walk around the truck multiple times to adjust cables or boost the battery is a pain, and I would like a kill switch that is easier to access, too.

[wixthedog]

Originally Posted by dagnabbitt

Having relocated the battery to the passenger side of the bed on my Apache, I can certainly see why you'd prefer it on the driver's side. Having to walk around the truck multiple times to adjust cables or boost the battery is a pain, and I would like a kill switch that is easier to access, too.

I'm all in now, I ordered everything I need for when I get home. Glad I like doing this stuff because it is just plain financially irresponsible!

Thank you to everyone for their input and suggestions, the ability to bounce ideas off of others is an invaluable tool.