power window regulators on the cheap

[ccautoupholstery]

I got mine in, no switches wired yet but they work great! I have 1 question...is there anything I can do to create a "stop" at full up and full down? When it gets to those points it makes a nasty clunk that seems like it is bc of it trying to go past where it needs to and maybe flexing?

[ccautoupholstery]

Anybody? 😁

[Peanut74]

Are you sure it is not going up and down so fast that is bang hard at the top and bottom of travel? Also, you might check to be sure your mounting bolts are tight and not rotating a bit at the end of its travel.

[ccautoupholstery]

Originally Posted by Peanut74

Are you sure it is not going up and down so fast that is bang hard at the top and bottom of travel? Also, you might check to be sure your mounting bolts are tight and not rotating a bit at the end of its travel.

I have double checked all bolts and tried to adjust the rear track the little that I can, and it happens whether I go straight up and down or I stop half way and go slow from there 😞

[kaycee]

Got all my parts except switches ,what switch kit did you guys use I should mention that I hate wiring. Some have relays some don't Motors have 2 pins. some wiring kit have 5 wires ,am I just over reacting on this or ??Dont mind a little bit of wirring
Allso a big THUMBS UP TO bonnieclyde for the HOW TO on this cheap mod

[70STOVEBOLT]

I used GM factory switches from a square body

[kaycee]

Did you use the harness allso? Thats what I would rather use

[70STOVEBOLT]

Originally Posted by kaycee

Did you use the harness allso? Thats what I would rather use

I used a Nu-Relic harness I bought from a board member, because one of the connectors was messed up on the harness that came with the switches.

[ccautoupholstery]

Has anyone had issues with binding while going up and down? My drivers side about 1/2" in before closed makes a big thunk and seems to shift, then will go up the rest of the way. My passenger side does the same but going down and about 2-3" from fully down

[Peanut74]

Well what you could do is remove the window and run the mechanism to full up and down. If it does the same thing as now you know it is not the window binding up in the track. If it operates smoothly you know it is a window/track issue.

One board member found that his window channel was to far to one side and was binding up against the window track felt.

[MARKDTN]

Originally Posted by Metaldoc

I tried to clear it up

This drawing is great! but there is still a bit of detail that is missing so I guessed at them. I have drawn this and would also like to make a dxf file so it could be cut. Does anybody who made this version know if the 3 highlighted dimensions are close or if they even matter?

[MARKDTN]

And the other version. Any ideas on the highlighted dimensions? I took a guess. I can create dxf files for both and have them as a 1:1 pdf so if printed on 11x17 they can be a pattern if I knew the dimensions were right.

[MARKDTN]

After looking carefully at the installation photos, I made some assumptions and here are the 2 different plates. For each there is (1) a pdf that is 1:1 if printed on 11x17 paper. It could be used as a pattern (2) a jpg picture that has all the dimensions.

And I have a dxf file for each. I wanted to attach but it is not a valid file type. PM me if you would like the .dxf file. For those that can use this it is scaled 1:1 and shown next to an empty "A" size border. This could be cut on plasma, laser, water jet, etc. I make no promises that either of these is right, only that these are the given dimensions with my assumptions. I show 1/8 holes for the motor. One place showed drilled and tapped 1/4-20 so that is what the drawing shows. Looks like most drill these out and use bolts with nylock nuts. The holes shown give you a place to drill based on what the other drawings show. If you want to do these holes all yourself, whoever uses the dxf can pretty easily remove these before cutting.

[Jason Banks]

Nice work! Have you got any cut yet? How do they fit?

Not sure if it works on this message board, but I've seen people rename files to get them to upload something like REGPLATETYPE2DXF.pdf basically change the filename where the guy that downloads it needs to change the filename to get it to work.

[MARKDTN]

Originally Posted by Jason Banks

Nice work! Have you got any cut yet? How do they fit?

Not sure if it works on this message board, but I've seen people rename files to get them to upload something like REGPLATETYPE2DXF.pdf basically change the filename where the guy that downloads it needs to change the filename to get it to work.

This is a down-the-road project. I had a little down time and saw these and thought, I could create these. I also realized after I posted that the Type 1 could be dimensioned more simply if it was turned. Still the same pdf pattern and dxf. If someone tries one of them before I get to this, and it needs a tweak, just let me know.

[BigBird05]

If you start to make them let us know so we can buy them from you.

[Jason Banks]

I was checking what thickness these were made out of. I think the original one say they were cut from 1/8 and I notice your drawing has 3/16.

Can anyone comment on 1/8 vs 3/16?

I have had the original drawing saved since it was first posted. Not sure why it fascinates me so much. I don't really want power(only) windows. But, always thought I 'd build a set.

[70STOVEBOLT]

I made mine out of 1/8” thick plate steel.

[Peanut74]

For those of you looking for the window motors at your local puul a part yard:
Dorman 742-142 and 742-143
They were used on '84 -'09 GM and '96-'00 '05-'08 Isuzu

[70STOVEBOLT]

I believe any motor with a 9-tooth gear should work.

[Peanut74]

70Stovebolt,
Not sure about the 9 tooth motor. I just was going by what bonnieclyde100 did to make his work. I did have some Toyota window motors that I tried to use. The issue I ran into was that the motor gear was not tall enough to engage the window arm gear. So that is where I think the difference lies and the ones he used have a taller motor gear.

I'm also working on making some window switches using the old window crank handle. I think I have it all worked out and will be posting a DIY once I make sure everything works the way it is suppose to.

[70STOVEBOLT]

Originally Posted by Peanut74

70Stovebolt,
Not sure about the 9 tooth motor. I just was going by what bonnieclyde100 did to make his work. I did have some Toyota window motors that I tried to use. The issue I ran into was that the motor gear was not tall enough to engage the window arm gear. So that is where I think the difference lies and the ones he used have a taller motor gear.

I'm also working on making some window switches using the old window crank handle. I think I have it all worked out and will be posting a DIY once I make sure everything works the way it is suppose to.

I don't remember the part number of the motors I used, they were new GM motors, I just remember they had a 9-tooth drive gear. If I can find the part numbers, I will post them. Looking forward to the DIY on the switches.

[Peanut74]

One question I have is when you assemble the motor to the regulator arm is it at a direct 90 degrees or is there a different angle I should shoot for?

[70STOVEBOLT]

I made mine using a 90 degree angle.

[Peanut74]

Thanks, looking at the pictures that is what thought but wanted to be sure. Second question, when you weld the motor plate to the assembly did you weld it inline with the arms pivot point or is it offset some?
Thanks