Re Restoration 71 C10

[cj847]

I guess I'll start a thread to document a few things and hopefully help some folks out.

Here is my recently purchased 71 C10. It looks great from 20'. But, I didn't want a show truck. As I document my work you will see little change in the looks.






History: This truck was built by some guy who got sick and died "when it was almost finished". It was built from parts off of several trucks he had. Then a guy bought it to "help the family out". The guy who bought it was not a mechanical guy, so every time something went wrong he had to pay to have it fixed, and was tired of it...lol. Anyway, we worked out a trade for a vehicle I had.

Specs: 350 crate engine that sounds good and is supposed to be low mileage; 350 automatic; tach dash; non tilt; PS, PB, non working factory air.

[cornerstone]

Congratulations on what looks to be a really nice 71! I'll be watching

[1971Stepside]

Great looking truck from here. Can't wait to see where you are headed with it.

[cj847]

I started this thread to highlight some issues that we all have with old vehicles. The first thing we want to do is the big stuff that makes a difference in looks or performance.
This truck was driven over 50 miles to my house without issue......so, let the modifications begin. Well, not so fast. An in depth inspections shows:

-The tires have tons of tread but are over 10 years old.
-No neutral safety switch.
-Brake hoses look cracked and tired.
-There is a massive oil leak underneath (more on that later).
-The passenger header is pushed against the starter. I can't even wedge DEI header tape between.
-The exhaust sounds great but is some kind of weird. Out of the header it goes outside the framerail all the way to the back. (That is what likely pushed the headers into the starter).
-driver window regulator is bad.
-Headlights don't work.
-Turn signals don't cancel.
-No coolant overflow tank.
-No windshield washers.
-The A/C Compressor and condenser were missing.
-There is significant bondo under a really nice paint job.
The cab is virtually rust free except for the cab supports that look like Swiss cheese.

Most of this I noticed at purchase and got fair concessions on price due to them.

The point is - all of this needs to be fixed before modifications to make the truck safe, reliable and comfortable.

First I''l tackle the NSS. Here are the tools needed - a 1/4" drive ratchet and 1/4" socket. The 3/8 adapter is just to make it easier to turn by hand when starting the bolts.



Here are the old and new NSS.



This is how the NSS was bypassed. Fairly common on old vehicles. But, come on, it's only a $20 part.



Here is where it's mounted. On the steering column near the firewall. It is a pain to get to but is possible. It is hell on an old guy like me.



Last step is to adjust it. The mounting is slotted so that it can be moved. Be sure that it will only start in Park or Neutral. Also check your back up lights are on when in reverse.

[cj847]

Here is the last picture showing the mounting position. I can't figure out how to add an attachment in the edit feature.

[cj847]

I got really lucky. The truck had a massive oil leak which I found strange for a low mile crate engine. I cleaned the block and went for a test drive. The bottom of the engine was coated (thinking rear main $$$$), then I noticed that the starter was coated with oil.
So, I pulled the valve covers hoping they were bad and indeed they were warped and had bad gaskets. Fixed that and washed the motor again.
Went on another test drive. Motor was again coated in oil, but the starter was coated. I pulled the inspection cover off the flex plate......dry as a bone.
Hmmmm.....I studied up on crate engines. Since they are designed to ft several years of vehicles they are set up for a dipstick on either side. Yep, the plug for the dipstick tube had fallen out or was never put in. So, I got a passenger side dipstick (because I could not get a plug in the hole). Now I have two dipsticks and no leaks!

[LT7A]

That's a great-looking truck! It'll be cool to watch as you improve how it drives and make it safe. You are more thorough than I am on your new project assessment and list-making. Two of my truck projects started out as parts rigs and so I didn't check drivability items at first (eventually). Glad to see you are putting this one to rights.

[cj847]

Did a few things recently. Keeping with my dependability theme>>

I pulled the crappy headers and exhaust for new exhaust manifolds and flowmaster pipes. I don't have any before pics. I got the manifolds from 1A auto ~$110 and painted them with cast iron color paint from VHT (including cooking the paint on in my backyard BBQ). I bought just the flowmaster exhaust pipes (not the whole system) ~$150. I was very impressed with the fit.

[cj847]

My truck did not have a coolant overflow or a windshield wash system.

I bought a coolant tank for < $10 from Walmart.com
I bought a windshield wash tank with pump for about $14 from amazon.

The coolant tank was good. The only issue was the input on it was 5/16 and the outlet on the radiator was 3/8. Here is a good summary on expansion vs overflow vs catch can tanks depending on what you want/need.

http://blog.cantonracingproducts.com...20the%20system.





The windshield wash kit was a steal. It came with tank, pump, and a button to operate it.

[cj847]

Keeping with my safe and reliable first theme, I had to fix the cab supports. It always amazes me the way vehicles rust. Every one I have had has had some odd point of rust. In this case, the cab floor and inner rockers were fine, but the cab supports were rusted out.





I used the overlay type mounts, didn't go to the effort to cut ut and use oem replacement. I hired this done as I am not a welder.



After pics

[cj847]

Discovering more little frustrating things. It seems like the truck didn't have appropriate power for the engine/trans combo. Turns out both the throttle bracket and the trans kick down bracket were incorrect. I bought a cheap replacement, installed an adjusted it. It is so much better. You can actually punch it and it has passing gear. And i can achieve WOT.....

Before



After

[cj847]

Added a comfort item this week. Only about $50.

[Katrina/10]

I bought one of those Rampage consoles from Amazon, like it very much.

[cj847]

I had some warm start issues so I have added one of these insulators under the carb.

[cj847]

When closed the hood this happened.





I ordered a new set of hinges. More to come.

[cornerstone]

Originally Posted by cj847

When closed the hood this happened.

Possibly from dry pivot points?

[cj847]

I haven't posted in a while as I have been driving the C10 and enjoying it. Recently had to have the rear end rebuilt, so I took the opportunity to upgrade to a Detroit locker and 3.73 gears. It's awesome.

I needed some tunes. I was using a blue tooth speaker and my cell phone. I would have been OK with that except for the volume control being on the phone instead of the dash.

My truck had been previously butchered by someone putting in a single din radio. But the hack job was so bad it wasn't usable.

Fortunately, someone made an aluminum plate to cover the area and allow for a radio mount. But when I tried to cut it, I didn't have the correct tools.


So, I made a couple of options.



I chose the black ABS as it matched my instrument cluster almost perfectly.



Now I have AM/FM/Bluetooth, etc. The radio was about $40 from Walmart and amazon. The hidden antenna was $10 off ebay. The speakers were a couple of cheap kick panel speakers that came with the truck. They sound terrible, but my exhaust is so loud it doesn't matter.

[cj847]

Finally got around to ordering letters and installing them. I was too cheap to order the correct Cheyenne tailgate piece.

[cj847]

I added a toolbox to the truck against the advise of friends who pointed out "it's the old man look". However, I am an old man, it's a long bed that I actually use to do stuff, and most importantly, there is no space in the cab for the stuff I need to carry with me.

[Getter-Done]

Toolbox looks good

If it was a true (Old Man's) toolbox

It would have lids on each side,
And stick upwards of the bed about 6"

[68Gold/white]

Originally Posted by Getter-Done

Toolbox looks good

If it was a true (Old Man's) toolbox

It would have lids on each side,
And stick upwards of the bed about 6"

And weigh twice as much as that one, and would have rust on it.

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by 68gold/white

and weigh twice as much as that one, and would have rust on it.

.


.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by cj847

I used the overlay type mounts, didn't go to the effort to cut ut and use oem replacement. I hired this done as I am not a welder.

not being rude, love the progress but being a horrible welder myself, ha ha I know shady work when I see it, and if you hired someone to weld these in, that means they were a pro, and these welds look horrible

[cj847]

Yes they suck. I am going to have them redone. I had them done at a "hot rod" shop that has a good reputation.....apparently the good reviews are only for paint work or other. I won't be back to that shop. I have found a real appreciation for someone who can admit "I am really not the right person to do that....you should go to xxxx for that work."