Drag racing

[Hayden Buck]

Originally Posted by trac209

Ok guys this is obviously a joke,built from ground up and can't tune it??? Sorry but this thread is no win situation. Runs 10s lmao.

I tuned and timed the truck myself. And I'm no joker. I might be young but I have mechaned on old chevys since I was 9. So I know a lot in how to do these things. And here's your pics y'all wanted.
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[Hayden Buck]

Originally Posted by trac209

Ok guys this is obviously a joke,built from ground up and can't tune it??? Sorry but this thread is no win situation. Runs 10s lmao.

I tuned the carb and timed it myself. And I am no joker.
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[Hayden Buck]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

Your in High school and I'm sure your having fun with it so don't pay any mind to us old guys ! we're just ribbing you a little for fun . As long as your happy with it that's all that matters . there are a lot of guys in here that can give you more information than you'll ever want about these old trucks so make use of it . Some of us grew up driving these 67-72 trucks when they were brand new . My son was born before your truck was built .

Ok. Did my images go on the page?
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[Hayden Buck]

Originally Posted by Hayden Buck

Ok. Did my images go on the page?
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[Grumpy old man]

no pictures ?

[Hayden Buck]

I can't get them to go on
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[Grumpy old man]

Originally Posted by Hayden Buck

I can't get them to go on
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use a computer ,

[Hayden Buck]

I don't have one
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[trac209]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

no pictures ?

Hmm I can see them,it's like every other 10 second iron headed sbc full size truck,its invisible lol

[Hayden Buck]

I don't understand. Can u see them or can't you se the pictures?
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[Drew3]

10sec 60 ft time? 😂 Big square steel box+ iron SBC= 10sec??????????
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[Hayden Buck]

It blew its motor so now it will take about 15 seconds in the quarter mile. I worked it to hard.
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[Marine-58]

There are a lot of people on this board that know way more than I do about these trucks not mention engines and drivetrains. So guys please keep me honest here.

From a mathematical (physics) standpoint, the absolute best that 330hp can run a 1/4 mile is low 12's. That is making a lot of assumptions that the 330 is at the rear tires, all variables are perfect like reaction time, no trans slip, Torque converter perfect hook up, no tire slip, shifting time is zero, etc... Professional Top Fuel teams cannot get there. Oh, yeah don't forget the drag coefficient on these trucks. I could go through the calculations on here but no-one would be interested in that and I'm not going to spend the time doing it.

Once you plug all the variable info into the calculations, at best you will run a 15 second 1/4 mile, give or take 1/2 second. (estimated and without a blown engine..

A real life example - 72 C10 with a 383 with a dyno'd 465hp assuming 14% drivetrain loss gives me 399.9hp at the rear wheels. Only took it to the strip once and made 5 runs. Best time was 13.96. Although I am very rusty.

While I'm thinking about it, I know of absolutely ant dragstrip in this country that will allow a 10 second vehicle with only seatbelts, on at track.

After reading through all the post's and your insistance for this and lack of ability to describe a simple hesitation problem or any substantial details, I can only conclude that either you are a kid that just doesn't know better or some guy that just wants to goof around with everyone.

If you are a kid and willing to learn, own up to it and there are many very knowledgeable people on here that will give great advice. (Like Grumpy Old Man said much earlier). If not then just keep mesing with everyone, but understand we are on to you.

When my boy's were teenagers, my favorite saying was "hire a teenager while they still know everything"...

[Hayden Buck]

I'm a kid and I want to learn from y'all. I'm sorry if I'm not good at giving details. It is a 350 that is bored to a 355 it makes 325 horse at the wheels. It runs the quarter in 14.26. It runs the 1/8 mile in under 10. I would like to learn all I can from y'all.
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[Hayden Buck]

I also put nitrous into it which gives it the 325
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[Grumpy old man]

You don't have to be fast to win at bracket racing , many times the slowest guy will win his class simply by being consistent and not breaking out . I used to watch a man in a 4 door Caddy sedan win his bracket every weekend and he ran like 22.0 everytime he left the line , No burn out ,no expensive car/engine just very consistent and he would laugh like hell taking the trophy and cash home every week .

it was funny as hell watching him leave the line and be 3/4 of the way down the track before his 10.0 competition would even leave the line to try to chase him down usually red lighting while watching him drive away at 60 mph

[Marine-58]

Sounds better... Thanks for being honest. So let's move on from here...

First important question is what is your end goal for this truck? Makes a big difference if you want a daily driver or something high performance. Dependable daily driver can be expensive depending on what you start with. High performance is much more expensive.

Old saying "speed is expensive, how fast do you want to go?"

Can you provide some details on the current engine build? 355 ci says it was bored .030. Any info on cam, intake, exhaust, etc... Trans, rear end? Be as specific as you can. Lot's of questions just to establish where you are today. I would strongly caution against using any nitrous if the bottom end isn't strong enough to take it. IF you do have it and use it, make sure there is plenty fuel available and the gas solenoid has enough supply and works correctly, it only takes about a second to melt a hole in a piston if it is too lean...

[Marine-58]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

You don't have to be fast to win at bracket racing , many times the slowest guy will win his class simply by being consistent and not breaking out . I used to watch a man in a 4 door Caddy sedan win his bracket every weekend and he ran like 22.0 everytime he left the line , No burn out ,no expensive car/engine just very consistent and he would laugh like hell taking the trophy and cash home every week .

it was funny as hell watching him leave the line and be 3/4 of the way down the track before his 10.0 competition would even leave the line to try to chase him down usually red lighting while watching him drive away at 60 mph

Ain't that the truth!! Age and expeirence will win out over youth and entusiasm every time...

Excuse the typo's, working off a tablet...

[Hayden Buck]

Originally Posted by Marine-58

Sounds better... Thanks for being honest. So let's move on from here...

First important question is what is your end goal for this truck? Makes a big difference if you want a daily driver or something high performance. Dependable daily driver can be expensive depending on what you start with. High performance is much more expensive.

Old saying "speed is expensive, how fast do you want to go?"

Can you provide some details on the current engine build? 355 ci says it was bored .030. Any info on cam, intake, exhaust, etc... Trans, rear end? Be as specific as you can. Lot's of questions just to establish where you are today. I would strongly caution against using any nitrous if the bottom end isn't strong enough to take it. IF you do have it and use it, make sure there is plenty fuel available and the gas solenoid has enough supply and works correctly, it only takes about a second to melt a hole in a piston if it is too lean...

I want to have a high performance race truck. It has the original cam for a 350. The manifold is a N/A. The eahaust is a high speed low torque header. The trans is a thr400. The rear end is a 4.10 gear and 1/2 ton axle. I would like to make this a freaky fast race truck
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[Hayden Buck]

I would like to make this a high end job for me and my dad
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[Marine-58]

Sorry for the delayed response, had to make a parts run for the vette...

Couple items:

Cool that you want to do this for you and your Dad. Is he able to assist? Some of the best times with my boys were helping them build cars.

Since you are a minor, you do have your parents permission? I don't want to get you in trouble or myself even...

I'll give you general spec's but you will need to research specific part numbers. I can give you websites, but this all takes a lot of time and I'm already working 60+ hrs.

Ultimate decisions are your's. It is your truck and your money. I will provide options and with all the experience on this board, I'm sure plenty of others will chime in.

You are just learning so do not expect a 500hp beast. It takes experience to build and drive something like that. After losing my oldest son to an accident a few month's ago, I will not contribute to building something that will be dangerous. As time goes by and you gain experience, then go for more.

What Grumpy Old Man just said is very true. Consistancy is everything. Better to be a little slower and consistant than very fast and not being able to control it.

Nuff of the old man talk. Down to business...

Engine - Orig cam covers a lot of ground, there were many different grinds but we can go over that later.

Intake - get a magnet and see if it will stick to the intake? If it does then you have a cast factory intake.

Lower end - Do you know who put it together? If you do, then talk with them and see if they have a build sheet or can at least tell you what parts were used.

Now the big question - Do you have funding? Very easy to drop a lot of cash on these things. Knowing what limits you face can put this in perspective for time.

[Hayden Buck]

Yes I have permission. And yes my dad is helping me build this truck. I have about $16k to spend into the truck. No I don't know who did the complete rear end. The manifold did not stick to the magnet. Can't figure out thecam
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[AussieinNC]

Just noticed in your thread that you added nitrous to get to your 355 HP figure...

There is your power loss, fuel surge issue...

When you add nitrous, you also need to put more gas into the engine...the nitrous adds more oxygen to the fuel mix, leaning it out, unless you also put more fuel in...

This extra fuel must also be pressurized to enable it to be atomized into the airflow...

Running a standard 350 with a shot of NOS without extra fuel will kill the engine...

Any power added engine must be built to sustain the additional loads,,,forged pistons, H beam rods, steel crank, good aluminum heads, 750 Holley on medium rise manifold, cam and roller lifter set to suit NOS, roller rockers...

Fuel supply system must be 1/2 " inside diameter from pump to carb,,,3/4 ID tank to pump...aluminum tank with rear facing exit port...no 90 degree bends anywhere in fuel system...secondary higher pressure fuel pump for NOS fuel adder...

383 works well with NOS...but gets expensive fast...

Truck will also need better traction control, high stall convertor and a well built T 400, traction bars, solid bushings especially in rear. Dont forget driveshaft hoops....

Lighten the truck...no insulation or sound deadening, bucket racing seats and a roll bar with good set of seat belts,,,,

An old saying for young guns.."Speed costs money, how fast do you wan to go"...

[72kool]

First and foremost. If you are racing anything or driving down the highway, safety safety safety. Make sure you have updated all brakes, suspension and steering components first. Otherwise you will only won the race to the hospital. Invest in racing belts at least, preferably get a better seat and a cage of some sort.

After that then you can look at the drivetrain. If you have that kind of budget, after you do the safety equipment, I'd start somewhere you know. If the bottom end and cam are unknown, you could throw a lot of parts at it and never hit the mark. Tear it down and see what you really have. Or start fresh with a new crate engine and start building up. You could have a good solid street/strip combo 383 that you can keep adding to and making better for 5k that would be more than fun when you want.

[GR8-68]

This is what happens when someone watches to much Street Outlaws and sees the farm truck pulling the front wheels