Precision door seal question - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Peanut74 · 12-12-2022, 06:16 PM

I bought a complete rubber set from a online vendor. All the rubber is from Precision including the door seals. What I can't figure out is do I have the glue or press on? If glue on what type glue do you use?

The seal acts like press on but falls off after a bit. Below is a picture of the seals profile.

sick472 · 12-12-2022, 06:45 PM

My press-on Precision seal had to be hand butted on, meaning it took some force. It has been on for about 2 years and has not slipped in the slightest. I'd say you have the glue-on type. The glue to use is the 3M weatherstrip adhesive. Use the black as the yellow will stick out like a sore thumb if you get it goo-ed out somewhere. There is a proper way to apply the adhesive and a wrong way.

This is a good video to help you along...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qDBojIza-TA

It is not as easy as they make it look, but it's not bad either. Just take your time and have some mineral spirits and a few small rags handy for when it gets all over you and where it's not supposed to.

The portion of the seal the slips over the pinch welds will be stiff and has hidden wire in it that keeps it pinched in place. It will be rather stiff and takes some effort to bend it. The glue-on type will be much more flexible, like a noodle.

Peanut74 · 12-12-2022, 08:28 PM

Thanks 472. That is what I thought that they were glue on. I'm like Pigprn when I paint so should be interesting. I will have to go get some 3M so I can start the fun.

I take it the formed corner goes on the A-pillar to roof, correct?

**Sheepdip** · 12-12-2022, 11:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Peanut74

Thanks 472. That is what I thought that they were glue on. I'm like Pigprn when I paint so should be interesting. I will have to go get some 3M so I can start the fun.

I take it the formed corner goes on the A-pillar to roof, correct?

You can follow up with some "Goof-Off" or like cleaner before the 3M adhesive completely sets. You will need plenty of throw away rags.

Peanut74 · 12-13-2022, 06:09 PM

Well I went ahead and glued my Precision door seals on. I went with the "less is better" when I glued them on. I even managed to come away not looking like Pigpen which is a first. Tomorrow I will double check and make sure I have a good seal.

12-12-2022, 06:16 PM	#1
Peanut74 Registered User Join Date: May 2018 Location: Prattville, AL Posts: 590	Precision door seal question I bought a complete rubber set from a online vendor. All the rubber is from Precision including the door seals. What I can't figure out is do I have the glue or press on? If glue on what type glue do you use? The seal acts like press on but falls off after a bit. Below is a picture of the seals profile. Attached Images __________________ -------------------------------------------------------- 1967 C10 "Snowball" (Currently in a million pieces down from a bazillion) 1989 Toyota DLX pickup "The Hulk" 2012 Jeep JKU "Crush" 1976 Chevy short bed with a 327 and 3 on the tree (Sold it to buy the Blazer) 1971 Chevy Blazer (Sold it)

12-12-2022, 06:45 PM	#2
sick472 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2015 Location: Sedalia Mo. Posts: 1,131	Re: Precision door seal question My press-on Precision seal had to be hand butted on, meaning it took some force. It has been on for about 2 years and has not slipped in the slightest. I'd say you have the glue-on type. The glue to use is the 3M weatherstrip adhesive. Use the black as the yellow will stick out like a sore thumb if you get it goo-ed out somewhere. There is a proper way to apply the adhesive and a wrong way. This is a good video to help you along... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qDBojIza-TA It is not as easy as they make it look, but it's not bad either. Just take your time and have some mineral spirits and a few small rags handy for when it gets all over you and where it's not supposed to. The portion of the seal the slips over the pinch welds will be stiff and has hidden wire in it that keeps it pinched in place. It will be rather stiff and takes some effort to bend it. The glue-on type will be much more flexible, like a noodle. __________________ He who is without oil shall throw the first rod. Compressions 8.7:1 1972 C10 1976 C10 (parts truck) 1985 K20

12-12-2022, 08:28 PM	#3
Peanut74 Registered User Join Date: May 2018 Location: Prattville, AL Posts: 590	Re: Precision door seal question Thanks 472. That is what I thought that they were glue on. I'm like Pigprn when I paint so should be interesting. I will have to go get some 3M so I can start the fun. I take it the formed corner goes on the A-pillar to roof, correct? __________________ -------------------------------------------------------- 1967 C10 "Snowball" (Currently in a million pieces down from a bazillion) 1989 Toyota DLX pickup "The Hulk" 2012 Jeep JKU "Crush" 1976 Chevy short bed with a 327 and 3 on the tree (Sold it to buy the Blazer) 1971 Chevy Blazer (Sold it)

12-13-2022, 06:09 PM	#5
Peanut74 Registered User Join Date: May 2018 Location: Prattville, AL Posts: 590	Re: Precision door seal question Well I went ahead and glued my Precision door seals on. I went with the "less is better" when I glued them on. I even managed to come away not looking like Pigpen which is a first. Tomorrow I will double check and make sure I have a good seal. __________________ -------------------------------------------------------- 1967 C10 "Snowball" (Currently in a million pieces down from a bazillion) 1989 Toyota DLX pickup "The Hulk" 2012 Jeep JKU "Crush" 1976 Chevy short bed with a 327 and 3 on the tree (Sold it to buy the Blazer) 1971 Chevy Blazer (Sold it)



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