My first audio post...need blazer ideas

[5150]

Hey guys, well it's getting close in my build where I need to make some decisions concerning the one thing I can't drive without-music.

First of all I'm building a 67 2wd roadster(check my sig). I've accumulated a few things already. Some of it was in my stepside and some I bought. I have a set of real nice Infinity Kappa 6x9's 692.9i's, a Infinity 600 watt 4 way amp, and a set of JL Audio 10's in a box. Haven't bought a receiver yet. My only requirement is it be able to go with my Ipod since that is the only thing I listen to when I drive my trucks.

I had planned on putting the receiver where the A/C controls went since I don't need them.

I had thought about cutting the doors for the 6x9's. After you've cut the doors down for the roadster, cutting speaker holes doesn't seem so bad.

I'm Line-Xing from the tailgate to the firewall, so I know the wiring will have to go underneath. Seats wise, I have two leather buckets from a 99-up Tahoe and the third row as my backseat. As of right now don't know what I'm going to do for a console.

any ideas? suggestions?

[Riveted1]

I looked a bit at your build thread. Gonna be a cool ride.

I've got a few questions for you before I give any opinions... and we all know what those are like

You say your subs are in a box... is it a premade one or one you made?

What is the model number on the subs or sub box?

Are you dead set on using the 6x9's for your front speakers?

What is the model number on the amp?

[AceX]

Personally, I wouldn't run 6x9's as a front speaker. (I actually wouldn't run them at all, but that's another story.)

Seeing as you're already dropping some serious money on the project, don't short change it. Get a set of 6.5" Infinity components for the doors or kick panels and run them off of the front channels. You can also run the 6x9's off of the same channel and use the rear channels to power the subs.

As far as a deck (reciever), Just about any Pioneer deck comes standard with an iPod adapter in the box. Look into the DEH-500UB. Great unit.

If you have some serious coin to drop on a GOOD deck, then it's hard to beat the Pioneer DEH-880PRS. I have one in my truck and love it. The new ones are even better.

[Riveted1]

Well, that's pretty much what I was getting at w/the 6x9 question. I'm not a big fan of em either and think you would be happier w/a 6.5" component set. U could always use the 6x9's for your "rear fill".

But I know some people have a direction they are going in (budget, looks, sound, etc) and that's why I asked the questions above.

[72 cheyenne pdx]

Agree with AceX and Riveted1 - I would probably use a 6.5's or the 5.25's for fronts. If you are going for show quality, I would put them in custom kick panels or in custom door pods. I just hate cutting speaker holes in doors if it can be avoided. I would then make custom 6x9 enclosures for the rears. As AceX stated, you can run the front and rear speakers off 2 channels and the subs off the other 2, but I would probably get a mono amp or a 2 channel amp for the subs. Then use the 4 channel for front and rear to get more separation and better tuning ability.

That's my 0.02.

Good Luck - Sweet Blazer (I'm Jealous) - and keep us posted with the final set up that you decide.

SEA

[5150]

Okay here you go:

[Riveted1]

Yep those guys know their stuff. ^

Ok, this is what I would do: (Sorry it's so long)

I would buy a 6.5" component set. Find a store (preferably a REAL car audio shop) and listen to several pairs and pick out the ones you like the best. Note they will sound different in your blazer, but that's the best way to pick out some you like.

Build some kick panels like was suggested above and mount the component set in there. You can find plenty of info on the web about proper aiming of the speakers to get optimum sound. Run these off of the front 2 channels of your Infinity amp. You can also use the high pass filter on your amp to cut out some of the lows from your component set so they don't distort at high volume (or use the one on your head unit if it has one.)

Now find a spot for the 6x9's and run them in some sort of enclosure. Run them off of the rear channels of your Infinity amp. I would use the high pass on these too.

Now for the subs, I don't know what model those are. But I would suggest (also mentioned above) that you buy an amp just for the subs. Usually take the RMS power handling of the subwoofer or both subs together (if using a mono amp) and find an amp that is just a bit more powerful than that (RMS).

I would build a custom box or boxes for the subs. Something like firing in from the side panels or down behind the rear seat. You can build a big portion of the boxes over the wheel wells to use up that almost worthless space. If you don't wanna get that crazy, the box you have would probably work.

Amps can either be mounted under your seats or showcased as a part of the sub boxes, center console, etc. Depends on how flashy u wanna get.

Make sure you run hefty power wire and ground wires, and always use a master fuse or circuit breaker near the battery.

Also be aware that a topless vehicle will need a lot more power in the bass department to be audible when driving down the road.

[AceX]

The subs are 10w0's. JL just discontinued them this year.

They can take a good 250 watts RMS each, but they can do alot no matter what power you give them. That amp will supply enough power to run everything as I suggested, no, it won't be the greatest sound you'll ever hear, but from what I gather, it should be good enough for what you have going.

The one thing I would change is putting the subs into a custom made, ported box. It will help out alot.

[5150]

Talked to my body guy and he's going to build me some kickpanels for a set 6.5's.

Just not sure where to put the 6x9's a nd the subs. I like this: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...ad.php?t=25316

[frostie_122]

The main question is how far do you want to go on the stereo...you are putting a ****-ton of work in to the body, so you better make the stereo up to par...
Everyone has there own opinion. I am part owner in a high end shop here in bend or. so here is my 2 cents.
-Garage sale the gear you have and start with some new gear.(you are going to have shiny paint so why not have shiny amps)
-Dont cut the doors. Speakers will sound way better, imaging and staging and over all midbase performance in the kick pannels. Build some basic, or wild, kick pannels for a 6" seperate. I prefer not to cut the kick but to make a mold w/ fiberglass and build from there. I prefer Boston, JL, and Hertz as far as high end. The Hertz will blow you away. Dont worry about rear fill you wont hear it in a convertable...keep in mind everone has their own opinion on brand name. you have to pick out what you like.
-As far as amps go once again how wild? One good 4 channel running fronts and 2 10", 2 12"? Two amps bi amping the fronts and a mono running subs?
I like the blazer that you found at diy but once again with no rear speakers.
The amps are in a good location.
-USE DYNAMAT!!!

For example I have a 72 and JL is sending us a "DEMO" system for it. I am using all of JL's new marine gear, incase I get stuck in a little weather.
Im using a Kenwood kos v1000 system w/ a 7" touch screen that is flushed in a floating console. Two...yes two sets of 7.7" marine seperates in the kick pannels. 4 10" marine subs that will be in a molded downfire box in front of the rear fender wells, two on each side. 1 600/4 marine HD amp running the front stage and 2 750/1 HD mono amps running 2 subs each. The amps will be in a amp rack on passanger side behing fender well(like the blazer you found but a little more angle and i have to fit another battery under the rack.

As you can see I took the wild aproach so I can show my customers some custom work.

Decide what the overall vision is and budget and remember skys the limit.
If you have any questions feel free to call the shop.
Soundsfast.net (just a homepage as of now)
check out fiberglassfoums.com for ideas
and consider the marine gear. just incase. it sounds incrediable as well.
JLaudio.com
here are some pics of our canvas...
console and under hides usb in/av in/12v/and 110 converter

hope this helps remember actual value of my 2 cent may very...

[frostie_122]

two more

[5150]

So you don't think I need any rear speakers??? Just some high end 6's in the kick panel and subs in the rear??

I'm going the kick panel route and my blazer will be line-x'd so can't use Dynamat.

I also want to build a real nice console to go through the buckets.

[Riveted1]

No, you don't NEED them. The majority of my personal installs have not used rear speakers. It's been awhile since I looked at your build, but if you're gonna use rear seats, I would have something back there for the rear passengers. If not, it won't matter. I just figured since you already had some 6x9's you could use 'em....

[frostie_122]

true on the dynamat...i rhino lined the back of mine and then dynomated the bed sides because they will have panels covering them. If you put the speaks in the kicks i would still do dynamat behind them as long as you wont see the stuff...fiberglass pods will also resinate so make sure that you do something to deaden the pods...molding clay, baltic birch, dynoxorbs behind the speakers...
and no i wouldn't put in rear speakers unless you care that rear passengers wont have "premium" sound.

colin

[frostie_122]

ta-da...

[frostie_122]

...i went a little over the top just to show my customers "wild" but a good 6 tweet will do. these are 7.7 seperates from jl audio and they are marine...bring on the rain.

[AceX]

Thanks for the pics of the kicks. Stupid quesiton though, where's your e-brake...?

[frostie_122]

its up there. out of a toyota.