Cause of leaky pinion seal?

[shelby987]

I pulled my pinion yoke because I noticed a small leak, after about an hour and a half with a hammer, a slide hammer, and a two jaw gear pulled I finally got it off. I looked at the seal I pulled out, it didn't look too bad, didn't notice any big cuts or anything. Next I cleaned up the pinion yoke, and noticed that there is some surface rust and gaulling on the surface closest to the dust boot, I included a pic, its not too clear (camera sucks), is this the cause of my leak? If so, is there anything I can do with this yoke?

There also seems to be a groove about 1/8th of an inch up from the flat surface that is parallel with the dust boot, not sure if this is from debris or the seal, not sure how far forward the seal sits on this surface once installed in the case.

[kelsfine69]

Go buy a speedy sleeve and a new seal and put her back together. Did you mark the nut to the pinon stub?

[JimKshortstep4x4]

Make sure that the vent is open and not plugged up. A plugged vent will cause a build up of pressure in the differential which leads to leaking seals.

Jim

[rage'nrat638]

yup ..hope you maked it..other wise !!!
that nut requires something like 200-220 ft lbs depends on which rear end you got. and thats setting the crush washer in there. thinking its new.
or you will get a howl..be carefull on this one.

[shelby987]

What's a speedy sleeve, do I have to turn the OD of the pinion yoke?

Do I need a new crush washer? The washer I pulled out of there looked to just be a solid washer?
Last problem......I didn't mark the nut, I was unaware that I had to....BUT when I bought this axle the nut could be tightened or loosened by hand anyway (think PO probably tried to replace the seal and they weren't as determined as I was to get the yoke off).

Oh, lastly, I am still working on getting this axle installed on the truck, so I don't think pressure build up (truck hasn't moved) is the cause of the leak, but thanks for the tip, I will check that tube before I run it.

[MikeB]

Re pinion nut torque: Guys, the big torque numbers you describe are for crushing the sleeve initially. (The sleeve is behind the tapered bearing.) Once it's crushed to achieve the proper pinion bearing preload, it's done. I mean, what's the sleeve gonna do, expand? The only reason to re-crush would be if the pinion bearing preload has loosened up too much. But you can't measure and adjust that without removing the axles and carrier.

I would clean the pinion and nut threads really well, squirt on some red Loctite and tighten the nut down to 125 lb/ft or whatever the spec is. It probably took 300 lb/ft to crush the sleeve, so 125 isn't gonna crush it any further but will hold the yoke on securely. I use a 24" pipe wrench to hold the yoke while torquing the nut.

[kelsfine69]

Some times you can "feel" the point of where the nut comes in contact with the crush sleeve. Then just give it a little more like a minute or two. Not like 15 minutes. The only other option is to remove the carrier and the pinion, then install a new crush sleeve and retourqe to spec. The only function of the crush sleeve is to hold the nut on. Take the yolk to a parts store and ask them to match up a speedy sleve for it. No turning of the yolk. I have just hammer them on and it gives it a new surface for the seal to ride on. Good as new. I have done lots.

[Blue85]

Leaky seal might have meant the pinion bearings were a bit lose, nut may have backed off, this just happened to me on my 98

[raoul.duke]

Yeah, don't forget the loctite. I did this a few months ago and after reading all the scary sh*t about marking the nut/ pinion crush preload/ destroying diff if you overtighten/ etc. I was a bit shocked to find that I could loosen the pinion nut by hand......guess the PO (or somebody) didn't add the chemicals to the nut when they put it back on.....I'm guessing the loctite is causing all the grief for the folks struggling to get the pinion nut off....just a guess tho

[Mike C]

Pinion nut is a locknut. Just replace it. Best advice above is to get snug, the as tight as you can using a 1/2" ratchet.

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by Mike C

Pinion nut is a locknut. Just replace it. Best advice above is to get snug, then as tight as you can using a 1/2" ratchet.

You're right! It's only been 6 months since I rebuilt my 10-bolt, but I already forgot about the locknut.

My main point was the crush sleeve doesn't even come into play here, so I didn't understand why several folks mentioned it. Shelby -- simply do what Mike C. says.

[kelsfine69]

Originally Posted by MikeB

You're right! It's only been 6 months since I rebuilt my 10-bolt, but I already forgot about the locknut.

My main point was the crush sleeve doesn't even come into play here, so I didn't understand why several folks mentioned it. Shelby -- simply do what Mike C. says.

The only function of the crush sleeve is to hold the nut on. It keeps pressure on it so it wont come off. You can even run without one if you get the rotating torque/depth to spec then tack the nut, but then its is permanent and that would be silly.

[David67]

Would this be true if replacing the bearing too? Is there any reason why the crush sleeve would be replaced?

Originally Posted by MikeB

Re pinion nut torque: Guys, the big torque numbers you describe are for crushing the sleeve initially. (The sleeve is behind the tapered bearing.) Once it's crushed to achieve the proper pinion bearing preload, it's done. I mean, what's the sleeve gonna do, expand? The only reason to re-crush would be if the pinion bearing preload has loosened up too much. But you can't measure and adjust that without removing the axles and carrier.

I would clean the pinion and nut threads really well, squirt on some red Loctite and tighten the nut down to 125 lb/ft or whatever the spec is. It probably took 300 lb/ft to crush the sleeve, so 125 isn't gonna crush it any further but will hold the yoke on securely. I use a 24" pipe wrench to hold the yoke while torquing the nut.

[GASoline71]

The leak is prolly due to the deep grove in the area where the seal rides on the yoke. New sleeve, and a new seal, and good to go.

Gary

[eightbanger]

What's the sleeve that everyone is talking about? I replaced my pinion yoke and seal a few mths back, and did not see any speedy sleeve that was needed. What am I missing here?

[OhOneWS6]

Originally Posted by eightbanger

What's the sleeve that everyone is talking about? I replaced my pinion yoke and seal a few mths back, and did not see any speedy sleeve that was needed. What am I missing here?

It is just a sleeve that slides over a damaged or worn shaft to make the sealing surface nice and new. If yours was not damaged you would not need it.

http://www.alliedbearings.com/mfg_pr...edi/index.html

[eightbanger]

Originally Posted by OhOneWS6

It is just a sleeve that slides over a damaged or worn shaft to make the sealing surface nice and new. If yours was not damaged you would not need it.

Cheers mate.

[carsinsc]

The crush sleeve is NOT to hold the nut on. It is to set pre-load on the pinion bearings. They are tapered bearings. If there is no pre-load on them they will wear out and cause unwanted "play" in the rearend. There is a turning torque spec to be followed when dealing with crush sleeves. Email me if you would like more info and I will try to find specs and give you a better explanation. Too many people do this incorrectly and cause themselves trouble down the road.

[snc4life]

completly agree with the last post pulling the crush sleeve all toghether and tacking the nut is bad news hopefully you do some research or you'll have bigger issues than a leaking pinion seal

[OhOneWS6]

Holy year old thread batman.

[leddzepp]

Originally Posted by OhOneWS6

Holy year old thread batman.

Check the first post....it is approaching 5 years old