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Old 04-14-2003, 03:06 PM   #1
Ripley Bryant
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Question Drum Brakes Question...

I test drove a '69 C10 longbed last week and was disappointed with how poorly the brakes worked.

The truck had 4 wheel drum brakes and had been sitting for the winter.

Is this normal for these trucks with drum brakes?

I am looking for something I can haul occasional loads with (Firewood, runs to the dump, bark, etc..). I was concerned that as poorly as this truck stopped when it was unladen, it would be suicidal to try driving it with any kind of load in it.

So... Is this 'normal', or does it just need new brakes? The owner said the brakes weren't that old, and that it tended to go through brakes quickly.

Thanks from a newbie.
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Old 04-14-2003, 03:17 PM   #2
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Ripley,

69's came with drum brakes. 71 was the first year that these trucks came with Disk brakes on the front. There are a few options you have for better brakes. The first is to see what condition the existing brakes are in. New drums and shoes properly installed will do OK, but they still don't stop like disks.
Another option is to swap out the entire front cross member from a donor truck. 71-72 is a direct bolt on and 73-86 or so is also with a couple of frame holes that have to be enlongated. There also is a company that make kevlar shoes that work with the stock drum setup. They are pricey but those that have used them swear they stop like disk brakes. Labor wise this would be the easiest.
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Old 04-14-2003, 03:28 PM   #3
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Praise dyno brake is the company I have heard of that makes top notch shoes.I beleive some of the members of this BB have used them.Maybe you can run a search or post a ? and get more info.They also have a web addy but I'm not sure what it is.
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Old 04-14-2003, 04:14 PM   #4
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I have basic non power drum brakes on my 68 C10 and I don't find any problems with them. They stop fine. I haven't changed anything in years and the truck does not get used in the winter months. It sits outside on my garden. If I step on them hard I lock up the wheels.
If you don't want to go to the conversion at this time I suggest you change some brake shoes and have the drums turned or replace them if they are too worn. You might want to check that the wheel cylinders are alright too. If they are getting gummed up or if they are leaking they might not give normal pressure?
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Old 04-14-2003, 05:31 PM   #5
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Old 04-14-2003, 09:22 PM   #6
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I'm with oldsub on this one...... I still have 4 wheel drums on my 69 and they work pretty darn good, mine are power though. Granted, I did a complete brake job and replaced almost everything, when they're in good working order they'll stop fine. My bet is that they aren't adjusted right, worn out shoes/drums, or leaking of one or all of the wheel cylinders or the master cylinder.

So if you're test driving it and they dont work good plan on shelling out the cash to fix em or start looking for a different truck if you dont want to spend the extra money on brakes.
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Old 04-15-2003, 12:15 AM   #7
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Crusty shoes, rusty drums and old brake fluid (with air?) in the lines can take a LOT of pressure to stop a truck.

Speaking from personal experience, it takes all of my 200 lbs+ stomping on the pedal to stop my old '4 wheel drum / no power / been sitting for 3 years' truck from rolling down the hill when I am backing it into the shop.

I have also driven a '69 4 wheel drum brake truck with power booster that was just as easy to stop as a new vehicle.
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Old 04-15-2003, 12:20 AM   #8
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I've got a 70 without power, how hard is it to add a booster?
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Old 04-15-2003, 03:11 AM   #9
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Any brake set up, if adjusted properly, will work well.
Ripley Bryant, did you notice whether it had power brakes or where they manual. I've driven both manual and power drums. i find that they don't slow the vehicle down as quickly as disk, but if you are an alert driver drums should never fail you unless there is a severe mecanical failure. then again, disc or drum, you must always be alert. i have found that my power assisted drums work better than some of my freinds brakes...
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Old 04-15-2003, 07:16 AM   #10
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I have drums all around on my 70 C20. The previous owner (my brother) used this truck to haul an 8 horse gooseneck dual axle trailer and had no problems. You just gotta get the breaks set up right an you'll be fine.

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Old 04-15-2003, 07:23 AM   #11
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I agree with the others. I have no troubles with any of my drum brake equipped vehicles and if properly set up, you won't either.

You don't know the condition of the brakes on that truck. I've seen people do some scary things when it comes to brakes! Some people just shouldn't do auto repairs!!!

First thing I do when I buy a new toy (other than clean it up) is to go over the brake system. Most times, I find alot of problems.
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Old 04-15-2003, 01:56 PM   #12
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Any vehicle that can lock up all 4 wheels is capable of stopping safely be they disc, drum or a combination of the two. Locking them up when you want to with properly function brakes of course, not locking up because of some other problem. Stopping distance at speeds below say 60 mph is a factor of tire traction. When you start getting over 60 mph or doing multiple stops heat starts to become a factor and brake fade will occur. This is an area where disc brakes tend to perform better because they are able to better shed heat.
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Old 04-15-2003, 03:21 PM   #13
Ripley Bryant
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Quote:
Originally posted by SWINGSAX68
Any brake set up, if adjusted properly, will work well.
Ripley Bryant, did you notice whether it had power brakes or where they manual. I've driven both manual and power drums. i find that they don't slow the vehicle down as quickly as disk, but if you are an alert driver drums should never fail you unless there is a severe mecanical failure. then again, disc or drum, you must always be alert. i have found that my power assisted drums work better than some of my freinds brakes...
They were manual.


Thanks!
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Old 04-15-2003, 03:26 PM   #14
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Thanks for the responses everyone!

I'm pretty sure the brakes must have been shot or had some other issue. I was driving at ~30MPH and slowed for a right hand turn and the truck just didn't seem to be stopping very quickly. They didn't lock up at all, the truck just kept on rollin'.

I passed on the truck. It was my first 'test drive', and I learned a lot by looking the truck over and driving it. I'll be keeping my eyes open.
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Old 04-15-2003, 09:15 PM   #15
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i don't have any problems out of my power assist drums. they are good but i want 5 lug so i'm switching over to disc/drum. will be selling my old drum set up after they get cleaned up. still have to get tie rod ends, ball joints and new brake lines before i switch over, not to mention wheels, but that is in the works too
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Old 04-16-2003, 12:31 AM   #16
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word to the wise....If you've never had the...HONOR????PLEASURE????UNCERTANTY???? of using manual brakes, be prepared.....you wil get a work out....and if you speed, be prepared to pass lots of red lights...
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Old 04-17-2003, 09:14 AM   #17
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drum brakes

could be the auto adjusters worn. did the early trucks have auto adusters? i have found them worn out on rear brakes-so they never adjust the shoe out in normal driving. i like the disc better because of they cool faster and dont fade in wet conditions.
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Old 04-17-2003, 01:28 PM   #18
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Mine were just shot...Biggest problem I saw was the rubber lines wre partially (to completely) blocked, theus not much fluid got to my leaky wheel cylinders.

Like the others said it is probably just old, corroded, funkied up. If you don't know the age...I'd say replace at least all the wheel cylinders/rubber hoses and what ever else looks worn. I have manual brakes and original master cylinder and mine stops real good (large 60 series tires help too). It will take more pressure by you (never drove one with power brakes in our years), but will give you more than enough stopping power.
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Old 04-23-2003, 03:47 AM   #19
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what about the master cylinder

Is the truck getting enough presuer in the line to push the wheel cylinders out properly? also If the previous owner says the truck has new brakes are the shoe installed correctly? I discovered he rear shoe were installed backwards on my 69. The longer shoes should be installed towards the rear of the vehicle.

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Old 04-23-2003, 08:37 AM   #20
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And buy a hardware kit.The new springs are cheap.
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