Attn: Guitarman

[Bagged72]

Hey, I talked to you before about the Rv2 compressor you are running. I managed to pick one up last week for $20 and have some questions. First do you have any detailed pictures of the brackets you made? Also you said to remove the expansion valve, which one is that? I see two tubes leaving from the compressor. Any other informatino about hookup or plumbing the lines would be appriciated.
P.S. How do I go about hooking up a pressure switch to it?

Thanks a bunch.

[Bagged72]

ttt

[guitarman]

Sorry I didn't see your post sooner. The expansion valve is under one of the plates on the compressor. The plates that are where the hoses attach. I cant remember which one. Kind of diamond shaped plates at the center of the V of the two cylinders toward the top.. Any way you remove the two bolts and there will be a hole about 1" in diameter. The one you're looking for will have a gold or brass looking piece of coiled wire if it doesn't you've pulled the wrong one just bolt it back and move to the other one. Then you grab the coiled wire with needle nose pliers and pull and the expansion valve will slide out. It sort of looks like a brass lifter it's about 2 1/2" long. Throw it away and bolt the cover back on.

Now as for the brackets I just positioned the assembly by litterally stacking pieces of 2x4's and 3/4" plywood scraps and constantly checked pully alignment until every thing cleared everything else and the pullys ligned up.

Then I fabricated a plate to bolt to the engine side of the compressor (Remember that my compressor is on the passenger side of the motor) If you look there are two holes that are already threaded for 3/8" coarse thread bolts on the side of the cylinder barrel. The plate is about 3" x 2" rectangle of 3/16" or 1/4" plate steel. I made a pattern out of a thin piece of cardboard like an oil filter box. Cut to fit and took a phillips screwdriver and pudhed it through where the holes where. I then used the piece of cardboard to drill the holes in the right place. then you bolt the plate to the compressor.

Now look at the front of the motor below the plate and there is a bolt hole in the front of the block parallel to the fuel pump that is the hole for the bottom of the first brace. I used 1/4" C channel I bought at Home Depot. I took another piece of stiffer cardboard (A piece of regular box) and cut the piece to fit from the bolt hole up to the plate. I then cut the C channel to match and as before I drilled the hole and bolted it to the block and then tack welded it to the plate on the compressor. Took the brace off and welded it good. I then bolted it back on the compressor and the front of the block.

Next the rear brace. If you got all of the origional Mopar tublar mounting bars. You take two of them and cut them in half. Then find a piece of steel rod (I cut an old steering rod out of a dead Chevy column) I think it's 3/4" and it will slide inside of the two pieces of Mopar tube. Bolt one piece of tube to the compressor on the left top back edge slide the cut piece of steering column into the tube you have bolted on. Now slide the other piece of Mopar tube on the other end. Now you can telescope the pieces in and out and and all around until the tublar structure will line up with an exhaust manifold bolt. You'll have to put a little longer bolt in to replace the manifold bolt you are taking out to make up for the thickness of the hole thickness of the Mopar tube brace
end. Bolt it all up tight and tack weld the Mopar tubes to the 3/4" steel rod where it enters. Un -bolt it and weld it all the way around. Take a grinder and clean up a little and paint it. Then bolt it back on and you are almost done.

Take a piece of rope and determine what length belt you will need. To save you four trips to the parts store pick up about four belts some shorter than you think you need and some longer You can return the wrong ones.

Hold on I just realized you must figure out which pully you are going to use back in step one and it might entail your having to pick up a three groove crank pully or a two groove water pump pully. Make sure you have some way to drive everything including the compressor.

All you have to do to wire it up is an on off switch between the A/C clutch (Green wire) with a 20 amp inline fuse and any twelve volt source. Be sure to have a gauge to check the pressure in your holding tank that you can look at when you turn it on because it is a powerful compressor and if you fotrget it will be trouble. I would suggest a pop off valve at the holding tank rated for 150 psi. That will prevent an explosion. If you want to get fancy you can wire in an electrical pressure switch at the holding tank just like the one on any home or commerical compressor has. You just put a constant 12 volts to the switch at the tank and run a lead to the A/C clutch wire and when it gets low the A/C clutch will engage and when it reaches the pre-set pressure it will kill the voltage to the A/C clutch until it gets low again. I had that set up but I took it off because sometimes the holding tank is to low to fill the front bags (They require 120 psi) and the tank might be at 110 psi and won't recycle untill it reaches a low of 100psi so you have to blow and fill the rear bags untill the compressor kicks in again. Pain in the Butt.

Now as far as plumbing the air lines just go to

http://www.classictrucksweb.com/tech/0202ct_ridin/

Scroll down and click on the diagram.

Good luck and if you hve any more questions just ask.

[Bagged72]

Thanks a bunch man, very good explaination. That answers all of my questions for now, I will let you know if I come up with anymore.
Thanks.

[guitarman]

You are very welcome and once again good luck.