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Old 08-13-2014, 07:33 PM   #1
clinebarger
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Re: 700R4 build thread.

Install Reaction Shaft/3-4 hub assembly.

Soak Input Planet in ATF, Soak input planet to reaction shaft Torrington bearing in ATF,
Stick the bearing to the bottom of the planet with TransJel.
Install Input Planet into 3-4 Clutch Hub.
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Old 08-23-2014, 11:53 PM   #2
BADAZ chevy guy
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Re: 700R4 build thread.

Built a stand for working on the transmission.
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My build thread. 1977 C10 short box. >>>> http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=624182

700R4 build thread. >>> http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...36#post6740236
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Old 08-24-2014, 06:48 PM   #3
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Re: 700R4 build thread.

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Originally Posted by BADAZ chevy guy View Post
Built a stand for working on the transmission.
Nice!!
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Old 08-24-2014, 07:04 PM   #4
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Re: 700R4 build thread.

Front pump Assembly.

Install Pump Slide & Slide pin. Assemble Pump Cover & Pump Body temporarily. Shake the pump.....You should hear the Slide move in the Pump Pocket.

If the Slide is stuck, Let me know. Do not let this go if stuck, Your trans WILL Die a early death!!

Nevermind the Primer spring & Wiper seals, Install the pump slide & pivot pin only for this test.
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Old 08-24-2014, 08:07 PM   #5
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Re: 700R4 build thread.

Remove Pump Seal, Drive Pump Bushing out from the seal side of the Pump Cover.

Flip the Cover over, Install Pump Bushing from the Pump Pocket side, Coat the outside of the Bushing with Loctite before installation, Install Front Pump Seal, Use Loctite on the outside of the Seal.

Install the pivot pin spring (204) into hole.
Install the O-ring seal (202) and oil seal steel ring (201) into the groove on the back side of the pump slide (203).
Use TransJel to retain the seal and the ring on the slide.
Using TransJel, Install the pump slide seal support (208) and the pump slide wiper seal (209) on the slide.
Install the pump slide (203). **The oil seal ring must face downward into the pump pocket.**
Index the slide pivot notch with the pivot pin notch.
Work the pivot pin (205) between the Slide & Pump.

Install Inner & Outer Primer Springs, Some people use screwdrivers, I Compress the spring in the end of a Vise (with half the diameter sticking out) & knock the spring in with a Hammer Handle while holding the Pump Cover over the exposed part of the spring, Hold the Slide to the Cover while doing this.
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Old 08-25-2014, 08:06 PM   #6
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Re: 700R4 build thread.

Place 1 of the Pump Vane Rings in the Pump Pocket like shown above.
**Note, I Highly recommend Hard Steel Pump Rings in ALL 700R4's. TransGo & SPX make them, Use the stock Cast Rings at your own risk!!**

Stick the Rotor Guide on the back of the Pump Rotor using TransJel.

**Note, I use 10 Vane pump kits on all HP or HD 700R4's, I use 13 Vane Pump Kits on Stock to Mild builds.
10 Vane pumps create more Volume & less prone to breakage with big Boost Valves.
13 Vane pumps are quieter & Even out the pulses in pressure
DO NOT use Early 7 Vane pump rotors!!**

Place Pump Rotor with Guide facing down in the pocket, The Guide will center the Rotor in the Pump.

Install Pump Vanes, I recommend New Vanes, If reusing See Drawing Below for Orientation! The Vanes need to sit between the Slide & Bottom Pump Ring.

Install Top Pump Ring.
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Old 09-03-2014, 10:48 PM   #7
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Re: 700R4 build thread.

Built a rear clutch spring compressor tool. $13.00 in steel and $3.00 for the bolt and nuts. Still need to weld one of the nuts and ad a handle.
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My build thread. 1977 C10 short box. >>>> http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=624182

700R4 build thread. >>> http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...36#post6740236
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Old 09-04-2014, 07:46 PM   #8
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Re: 700R4 build thread.

2-4 Band Install.

Fit the Opening in the Band over the Case Lug, Tilt the Input Drum a little to make room.
Once the Band is down in the case, Use a 90 degree Awl to line up the Band anchor slot with the hole in the Case, Install Band Anchor Pin, Make sure it seats in the Band.
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Old 09-05-2014, 10:29 PM   #9
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Re: 700R4 build thread.

2-4 Servo Assembly.

I'm going to start with 2nd gear Piston sizes, Identification, And what it means.

In the industry we use the last 3 Digits of the 2nd Piston part number for identification.

554 Piston. Has the Smallest Apply Area, Has the Weakest clamping force on the Band, Used on 4 & 6 cylinder applications. DO NOT USE behind a V8!!!

553 Piston. A little more Apply Area & Band holding power, The most common V8 & 4.3L V6 700R4 2nd piston, Great behind stock to mild engines & people that do not want a Firm 1-2 shift.

159 Piston. Again, More Apply Area. Used in 4L70E's ONLY as far as I know. Really nice 1-2 & 2-3 shifts. If you like cleaner shifts a little Firmer than stock....This is the one.

093 Piston. AKA "Vette Servo Piston", Has the greatest Apply Area, Almost Ridiculous really, The 1-2 will end up Very Firm after the Band seats in.
More of a "patch" for a New Band on an Worn Reverse Input Drum, Does produce the Cleanest 2-3 shift
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Old 09-07-2014, 09:00 PM   #10
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Re: 700R4 build thread.

If using a TransGo SK-700 or SK-700 jr, A Band shim is included. Install Servo & Shim without the Blue Cover O-ring.
If the Output turns both directions, Leave the Shim in. If the Output is locked, Take the Shim out.

The factory procedure is to use a Servo Pin Depth Gauge Tool, I don't use the tool, It's a PITA to set-up & I really do not trust it.

I do a Wiggle Test with a 90 degree Awl, I like around 1/8" total up & down movement. Install Servo & check before final assembly!! Use Apply Pin Length chart below for selection for a loose or Tight Band.

Sonnax has a extra long Apply Pin that be ground to a Custom length http://www.sonnax.com/parts/2477
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Old 09-08-2014, 07:26 PM   #11
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Re: 700R4 build thread.

Now that the band clearance is set, Remove Servo & replace all seals.
2 Scarf cut seals on the 2nd piston, Then the Red O-ring.
1 Scarf cut seal on the 4th piston. (The tall knob on the 4th piston faces OUT toward the Servo cover!!)
Install Blue O-ring on Servo cover
Install 2/4 Servo assembly in the trans.
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Old 09-17-2014, 03:15 AM   #12
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Re: 700R4 build thread.

Great thread clinebarger!

I gotta admit it's a bit overwhelming though. I do want to rebuild a transmission someday.
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Old 09-18-2014, 08:27 PM   #13
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Re: 700R4 build thread.

I highly recommend using a TransGo TV correction kit (Included in their Shift Kits SK 700-JR & SK-700) It will eliminate TV valve sticking problems that plague 700R4's.
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Last edited by clinebarger; 09-18-2014 at 08:35 PM.
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Old 09-18-2014, 09:25 PM   #14
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Re: 700R4 build thread.

Install the New TV Valve in the Valve Body Bore with BOTH return Springs.

Push the Valve down a little & Install the Roll Pin.

Check TV Plunger Bushing for wear, Move the Plunger Valve through the Bushing & Check for wear buy rocking the Valve in several locations. Keep in mind this is a High Wear item, If worn use this http://www.sonnax.com/parts/2512.

Install Red TransGo TV Spring into Plunger Bushing.

Insert TransGo Spacer into Spring.

Install Plunger Assembly & TV Spring into Valve Body Bore.

Install Roll Pin.
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Old 09-20-2014, 10:59 PM   #15
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Re: 700R4 build thread.

Accumulator Bushing & Accumulator Valve.

The Accumulator Valve controls the pressure in the Accumulator Oil Circuit, The higher the Accumulator pressure, The Firmer the shift.

The Pressure is manipulated buy using different spring weights, The heavier the spring, The higher the pressure. This affects the 1-2 Shift feel.

The TransGo 700-jr has 3 different Accumulator springs, Orange being the Firmest, Brown being a Medium weight, & Black being the Lightest.

Remove Accm. Bushing & Valve from the Valve Body, Check for Bushing wear, & the aluminum end cap fits snugly.

Check the LETTER code on the Accumulator Bushing BEFORE selecting a Spring weight!!

This valve train has 7 different OEM size variations: B, A, N, M, L, K, and F. They range from the largest valve diameter giving the firmest shift (B) to the smallest valve diameter giving the softest shift (F), respectively.
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Old 09-21-2014, 08:02 PM   #16
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Re: 700R4 build thread.

Accumulator Valve continued.

Assemble Valvetrain as shown below, The spring likes to hang-up in the bore, Turn the Valve Body with the Bore facing down during install.

The TransGo SK 700 (Senior) comes with a wire retainer that goes behind the 1/8" plug/4-3 pressure switch directly above the Accm. bushing, This allows Spring/Valve/Bushing changes without dropping the Valve Body.

The SK 700-JR doesn't always come with the retainer, Make your own if needed.

Not All Valve Bodies are tapped for the 3-4 Pressure Switch. If so Install original Roll Pin.
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Old 01-19-2015, 12:23 PM   #17
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Re: 700R4 build thread.

So, I just finished reading this whole thread again. I have all the parts I need for the 700R4 and I'm going to tear into it this next Saturday. Wish me luck and I'll keep you all posted as I work on it.
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My build thread. 1977 C10 short box. >>>> http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=624182

700R4 build thread. >>> http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...36#post6740236
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Old 02-10-2015, 12:49 PM   #18
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Re: 700R4 build thread.

Had my first scare this last weekend. Washing down the case and valve body at the local spray wash. I picked up the valve body and the manual valve slipped out and fell through the grate into the sump. 1/2 hour later, and smelling like a swamp monster, I found it with a magnet. fyi... Take that valve out before you do much work on the valve body there's nothing holding it in until the valve body is bolted to the case.
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My build thread. 1977 C10 short box. >>>> http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=624182

700R4 build thread. >>> http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...36#post6740236
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Old 02-15-2015, 01:45 AM   #19
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Re: 700R4 build thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BADAZ chevy guy View Post
I'm starting a new build thread for my 1993, 700R4. I've never built a transmission before, but Clinebarger has been gracious enough to offer his help and advice through this. I'll try to keep a photo record as I do this and post them here.
Wish me luck.
Sub'd.
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Old 05-30-2015, 07:15 PM   #20
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Re: 700R4 build thread.

This is for GMCdeadhead, But figured it can help others with a similar problem.

His 700R4 is locking on top of 2nd gear, This is usually because the TCC solenoid is getting power & ground at all times, The Converter apply valve gets its oil from 2nd gear oil.....That is why it will lock in second & stay locked up 'til the trans downshifts to 1st gear (2nd gear oil is present in 2nd, 3rd & 4th)

He has a 2 pole 4th gear pressure switch, Here are some diagrams on how to wire it correctly.
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Old 06-19-2015, 03:42 PM   #21
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Re: 700R4 build thread.

So looking at my trans do I need to change any of the wiring to use a TC lockup switch? 1986 700r4

Thanks!

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Old 06-19-2015, 06:49 PM   #22
clinebarger
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Re: 700R4 build thread.

Look at post #126, Do you have a TCC Shift Valve Bore?
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Old 06-30-2015, 12:08 PM   #23
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Re: 700R4 build thread.

Sorry I haven't replied until now. Thanks for the help!

I was able to install the longer TV spring (From BTO) so I'm assuming that means I have a TCC shift valve bore.
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Old 09-14-2015, 11:28 AM   #24
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Re: 700R4 build thread.

I too have a 700R4 mated to a 350 ZZ5 chevy performance crate motor and I just installed the Lokar cables (awesome product). I bought the B&M governor kit with the weights and springs to adjust the WOT shift points. The motor specs say peak HP is 400hp at 5600rpm red line is suppose to be @ 5800.

Where should my shift points at WOT be? 6000? 5800? 5600?

Last edited by schpeen; 09-14-2015 at 11:34 AM.
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Old 12-10-2015, 08:19 PM   #25
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Re: 700R4 build thread.

Now for some TCC wiring. I have some sort of two prong switch attached to the valve body, but NOT screwed into a port. My best guess is a Temperature switch. Can this switch be bypassed, removed, ignored?
If that switch wasn't there I would assume the wiring would be simply power (Red wire) to the TCC solenoid. Jumper (Black wire) to the 4th gear pressure switch. Then the Pressure switch would ground the circuit in 4th gear. But with this "Unknown" switch in between the two, I'm no sure how to proceed.
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700R4 build thread. >>> http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...36#post6740236
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