trans fluid to radiator fitting

[AussieinNC]

I just checked Earls Tech Site...

Those fittings are 6 AN meaning they are 9/16" 18 TPI

Not 1/2" 20 TPI ( which is technically 5 AN thread size...)

Radiator needs 1/2" 20....The Grainger fitting I listed is the one I use all the time

(BTW...these 1/2" 20 are a very common size in the hydraulic industry)

Check out the Grainger listing specs..

[weq92f]

This is what I need. Just don't know yet how to measure properly the female radiator port. I can measure ID ( It's over 1/2" just barely ) and then get the thread tool to measure the TPI. But, that doesn't tell me what "brand" threads those are, whether American, British, etc and/or what type of seal is required. Maybe the thread tool will discern those things?

Guess I'm off to Lowes or someplace to find that tool.

Thanks,

Originally Posted by joeydurango

I definitely hear what you're saying about the threads being different. And I'm definitely not saying the factory fittings should be used with the new radiator (I think Getter may have gotten me confused with LeddZepp).

If I were you, I'd use a precision caliper to measure the bore, a thread gauge to measure the TPI, and see if I could research an adaptor fitting that used those measurements while also being compatible to the factory fitting on the other end. Essentially, a brass plug that turns the aluminum radiator's fitting into the one you need for the tranny lines.

[joeydurango]

A thread pitch gauge is handy to have around, for sure.

But it sounds like Aussie is onto something - I'd check out the 5 AN fitting he's linking to on Grainger, see if the other end fits your line fittings.

[weq92f]

I have no idea what I have because both radiators should have standard ports for these lines.

I was just pointing out that the fittings suggested a few posts back by Aussie were definitely not correct as I had already purchased them and confirmed they would not work ( Earls ) some weeks ago. Here's the link from his post:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-940006erlp, which are the same parts I once thought I needed too. Obviously not.

I need to measure this radiator port, actually both radiators, to determine why my original fitting doesn't work, then attempt to find a fitting that does. This should be easy.

-klb

Originally Posted by joeydurango

A thread pitch gauge is handy to have around, for sure.

But it sounds like Aussie is onto something - I'd check out the 5 AN fitting he's linking to on Grainger, see if the other end fits your line fittings.

[AussieinNC]

If you are Lowes, grab a 1/2" 20 bolt and try it in the radiator....

The thread count per inch is listed by the manufacturer as 20...thats where the 1/2" 20 comes from in the listing

1/2" diameter
20 TPI

The standard hydraulic flare angle is 37 degrees...Parker fittings make some that are 30/37....mainly for aircraft use....

If you want to do some reading on AN vs standard flare...see....

http://blog.parker.com/an-37-flare-v...the-difference

I checked with a tech guy at Jegs that I know well...

The Earls fitting listed and what you purchased goes into the transmission itself....not the radiator....he told me they should update the text of the part description to reflect that...

He also said that most folk now dont use the radiator cooler at all...they close off the bungs with plugs and run external coolers.....

If the project I was working on was high horsepower, that's the way I would also go...

The current projects are both "stockers"...around 350 / 350...both early 350's...

[weq92f]

Went to two auto parts stores looking for a bbc timing tab. Neither had it in stock and both struggled hard to identify what I was after exactly.

Anyway while there I us d their bolt size tool to confirm my brass adapter is 1/2 20. Both ends of it.

I picked up a 1/2 20 bolt at Lowe’s. When I’m finished with this I’ll test it all n the radiator
Posted via Mobile Device

[AussieinNC]

That looks so yummy....!!!

Try that bolt in the radiator....I still think the radiator is the wrong one or has been specially built and stocked wrong....

I use the 1/2 20 fittings from Grainger and have never had an issue....

Have a great night

[weq92f]

OK, well, I got the bolt: SAE 1/2-20 about 2 inches long.

It bolts into the old radiator just like the brass fitting.

However, it does not bolt correctly into either radiator bung on the new aluminum rad. It'll bolt into there but it's loosey goosey like I can wiggle the bolt around. Just like the brass fitting feels bolted in there.

This is not 1/2-20 threads.

So now I'm going to have to go back to the manufacturer and have them either identify what I have thread wise so I can make it work OR send me a new radiator that is correct.

Any ideas what thread this might be?

-klb

[weq92f]

Contacted a local speed shop. It seems they will indeed have a look at helping me out with this issue if necessary!

This picture was on their page, on of many 67-72 examples...

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by weq92f

OK, well, I got the bolt: SAE 1/2-20 about 2 inches long.

It bolts into the old radiator just like the brass fitting.

However, it does not bolt correctly into either radiator bung on the new aluminum rad. It'll bolt into there but it's loosey goosey like I can wiggle the bolt around. Just like the brass fitting feels bolted in there.

This is not 1/2-20 threads.

So now I'm going to have to go back to the manufacturer and have them either identify what I have thread wise so I can make it work OR send me a new radiator that is correct.

Any ideas what thread this might be?

-klb

It's probably metric. COULD be a 13MM something or other pitch. If you can't find an English Engineering Units fastener to thread into it, they may have sold you the wrong adapters, welded in. Looks like you may have a source for resolution. Good luck with it!

[rynobuilt]

they should be 1/2" x 20 inverted flare, as in a 45 degree flair, like a fuel or brake line, you can most times use a off the shelf 5/16 brake line that already has the fittings on them at oreillys for your transmission cooler line. i just installed a champion radiator in a c-10 and did this. i have seen some champion radiators that didn't use the inverted flair, those will use an adapter that has 1/4 npt fittings to 1/2 inverted female. yours should be 1/2 x 20 inverted male looking
at that pics you posted...

[AussieinNC]

I believe in one of my first threads I suggested you go to Lowes and buy a 1/2" 20 bolt to verify the threads were as listed...obviously this radiator is a special build thta has probably been sold to multiple poor souls.


Call the seller and send it back...even if you have to pay the freight...

Then go to a reputable supplier and buy it, along with the fittings you need from the same vendor.....if they cant supply you the fittings...call Champion Cooling and demand an explanation !

I have always had excellent service from Jegs...but others like Summit etc also know the value of good customer relations.

[KY_GMC]

Originally Posted by weq92f

In the documentation for this, the fittings for the radiator lines are described as:
.....
.....1/2" 20 STRAIGHT THREAD G1/4
.....
-klb

G1/4 is a metric thread designation and is the same as BSPP = British Standard Parallel Pipe Thread.

I think what you need is a fitting with male G1/4 on one side (goes in the radiator) and male 1/2-20 on the other side (trans hose attaches to).

[rynobuilt]

a 1/2" bolt is not the same , it will be loose.

[weq92f]

Originally Posted by rynobuilt

a 1/2" bolt is not the same , it will be loose.

Turns out 1/2" 20 is the standard thread for tranny cooler connections to the radiator and indeed a 1/2" 20 bolt will screw in there just like you'd expect. It's not loose. I confirmed this myself. The aluminum radiator bungs however are not 1/2" 20 and so the bolt in question is very loose when screwed in there!

-klb

[CUDA8U]

i bypassed the rad for trans cooling and added an aftermarket cooler on my 512 stroker challenger,champion rad.Also i think you are defeating the aluminum rad upgrade by pumping hot trans oil into it

[AussieinNC]

I am more inclined to recommend you go the external cooler route and bypass the radiator cooler totally...

Just get some pipe style threaded plugs to go into the radiator bngs...just in case it ever springs a leak...

BTW...engine coolant leaking into an auto trans oil via the cooler is a quick and sure death to an auto trans...

[weq92f]

Spoke with the Manufacturer support folk. They appear to be a fairly generous lot.

What they have given me is that the threads are intentionally loose like this for reasons associated with the fact that the material is aluminum and the seal is meant to be carried out with the inverted flair and so the threads don't need to be so tight.

I was given advise to attempt to use thread tape and if that didn't work, they'd swap the unit with a custom one that has something welded in that I can use.

Ultimately this comes down to time and cost for me. Throwing money at a problem I shouldn't have isn't something I'm willing to do right now. I'd rather find something that will thread in and just seal so I can be on my way. I've asked that they suggest an online URL to an adapter that will do exactly what I need, given all the detail required to get it right. That is, they know what should work on their radiator they know what I need on my end: standard 37 degree male hydraulic fitting with 1/2" 20 tpi thread.

If that doesn't work, then I'll just return the radiator and use my original brass/copper unit.

Fortunately I've found that the dual fan shroud will bolt right up to my original radiator so I have an out there while maintaining the new cooling system!

-klb

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by weq92f

Spoke with the Manufacturer support folk. They appear to be a fairly generous lot.

What they have given me is that the threads are intentionally loose like this for reasons associated with the fact that the material is aluminum and the seal is meant to be carried out with the inverted flair and so the threads don't need to be so tight.

I was given advise to attempt to use thread tape and if that didn't work, they'd swap the unit with a custom one that has something welded in that I can use.

Ultimately this comes down to time and cost for me. Throwing money at a problem I shouldn't have isn't something I'm willing to do right now. I'd rather find something that will thread in and just seal so I can be on my way. I've asked that they suggest an online URL to an adapter that will do exactly what I need, given all the detail required to get it right. That is, they know what should work on their radiator they know what I need on my end: standard 37 degree male hydraulic fitting with 1/2" 20 tpi thread.

If that doesn't work, then I'll just return the radiator and use my original brass/copper unit.

Fortunately I've found that the dual fan shroud will bolt right up to my original radiator so I have an out there while maintaining the new cooling system!

-klb

One does not make threads "intentionally loose" if they know anything about mechanical engineering. Teflon tape is NOT the way to seal either (or to build up the gap) an AN or inverted flare fitting. Get it swapped for a proper fitting or just send it back and buy a radiator from someone who knows what they are doing.

ETA- one more thing- look at the flare fittings inside the radiator. If they are marred in any way as result of threading a bolt into the hole, send it back. Champion is off the list of places I would buy an aluminum radiator from.

[leddzepp]

Whoops, I lied

I didn’t use any adapters at all. The lines threaded in directly on both trucks. Here is my 68. I see in your pic you are using lines different than factory. At least you know these thread right in and seal up. If you have old oem lines you can match it up.

[CUDA8U]

put a trans cooler in,don't use the rad,both the trans and engine will run cooler

[weq92f]

I'm having zero luck finding an adapter that will work.

Can any of you find one?

I need this:

an -5 male to 1/2-20 inverted flare male

All I'm finding are an -6 fittings.

Both ends of my brass fitting fit snugly into this size checker tool. So I need both ends of the adapter to be 1/2-20.



Thanks,

-Kevin

[54blackhornet]

I can’t believe how much time and energy everyone has spent dicking around on this ? I hope the guy that sold you this realizes just how much business he has lost bye not rolling up his sleve and helping you out.....

[weq92f]

Have a look...

https://youtu.be/KmzRRrVeXzU



-klb

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by 54blackhornet

I can’t believe how much time and energy everyone has spent dicking around on this ? I hope the guy that sold you this realizes just how much business he has lost bye not rolling up his sleve and helping you out.....

IK,R?

Kevin, make 'em eat the radiator. It's complete BS that they can't send you the right stuff. They know what lines you have going to it, based on the vehicle information. Unbelievable. I'm looking at Cold Case atm, and hope I don't see this kind of problem. I'll put my wife on the phone. Nobody wants to hear it from Suzie! It's fun to watch. Though to be honest, if you get my Irish up, you don't want to hear it from me, either.