My 64 C-10 fleetside shortbed build

[flips72]

metal shrinking, now thats scary, but i have the upmost confidence you will succeed and it will be a rewarding experience....... i hope

[allaboutchevelles]

Well, I think I worked on that dent today for about 4 hours. I used my small propane torch and started shrinking and cooling it with a wet rag. I think this is about the most aggervating thing I have done on this truck. As you get the oil can out of one spot it moves to the other side and back and forth. When I finally got it solid I then had high and low spots to deal with. once I got those hammered out the oil can was back, lol, This is where a professional would have been nice. I think I finally got it all solid but still have a few low spots but at least I can work it now with the filler and it want be flexing around everywhere. I forgot to snap a pic toward the end but I got one not long after I started.

[flips72]

i knew you could do it all the time, looks good.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by flips72

i knew you could do it all the time, looks good.

Posted via Mobile Device

[McMurphy]

When I start losing patience one of two things happens...
I either get super stubborn and will absolutely not quit until I have what I want, or I set it aside and do something else so I can come back to issue #1 with a clear head.

I feel for you man.
On the other hand think of all the stuff you are learning !!

[Strodder]

I told my friend today that owns a body shop, I need you to teach me how to shrink metal. He said after the Holidays. I'm going to hold him to it.
He took the embossed FORD out of a tailgate, and made it flat as a board with no Bondo. He blew my mind.

[allaboutchevelles]

Wow, now thats some serius metal working skills to be able to do that. I think it would a lot more easy if I could get to the back of the panel to use the dolly. Please share the shrinking skills when you learn it. I been blocking the front of the roof tonight. What a lot of work.

[Strodder]

When I talked to him yesterday he asked if I had a small tip for my torch. So I guess that means heat small areas around where it needs to be shrunk, and not heat a large area around the oil can metal. I'll keep you updated when he come up here.

[flips72]

i am definitely am going to be watching for this.

[allaboutchevelles]

I think your right strodder> I put a smaller tip on my propane torch and that worked better for me but you really need to be able to get to the back side so you can hammer and dolly the spot after heating. Cant wait to see the guys technique he uses, keep us informed. I got the first coat of filler blocked tonight. I had a couple high spots show up but still had a few low spots so I hit the high spots lightly with a 60 grit sand disc and I hope the next coat of filler will block out even. I went over the rest of the back of the cabs roof where its flat and found alot of highs and lows that you cant really see or barely feel with your hand so I guess ill skim coat the whole panel and block it out. Also need to finish the front of the cabs roof but Im going to wait and buy me a flexable long block. Anyone have any sugestions on a rubber flex block that dont cost like 200 dollars. Nice kit of them on ebay but im not paying 200 dollars for sanding blocks. Oh yeah flip> I need to borrow your shoulders and arms for a few hours one day.> to finish blocking the roof

[flips72]

roof is looking great and i definitly know how your arms and shoulders feel, i most definitly dont want to wrestle with someone who does this for a living

[flips72]

any updates, or are you still resting your arms and shoulders?

[allaboutchevelles]

The last day I worked in the shop which was the day before thanksgiving I worked on blocking the roof until I ran out of sandpaper. I took the family to boone up in the mountains the day after thanksgiving for the weekend to pick out a christmas tree. Its been so cold here in the late evening to do anything in the shop without heat. So today I went and got some more propane for my heater and more sandpaper. Im almost done blocking the rear of the roof and took a vac day for tomorrow so ill try to get more done on the roof and try to get some pics. I was talking with my buddy at carquest today about some sanding blocks and he showed me these durablocks that are flexable foam. You can buy a 7 peice kit from amazon.com for 47 dollars. Has anyone used these before and how do they work???
Amazon.com: Trade Associates AF44L 6pc Dura Block...

[flips72]

thats what i use, and i like them.

[allaboutchevelles]

still blocking the roof!! I think I have it roughed in pretty close. Tomorrow im going to go over it with 180 grit and see if im happy with it. maybe put some full fill primer on it.

[flips72]

roof is looking good, what are you going to do about the seam sealer in the drip rail, are going to re-do it or leave it alone?

[allaboutchevelles]

Thanks Flip!! Before I sandblasted the roof I took a hook pick and removed all the old cracking seam sealer. I had to use a small chesil and hammer to get some of it out. I actually picked up the seam sealer the other day from carquest. Cant remember the name of it but its suppose to be a factory match, is what it says on the tube. Funny thing is I have never used any of this stuff before. My uncle does body work for a living and I was over there the other day and I was looking at his 69 chevelle that he put a roof skin on and I ask him how to spread it in the dip rail. He told me his pinky finger worked perfect. I have heard if you dip your finger in paint thinner it helps spread more even. He told me to put some regular paint in the channel before I put the seam sealer in also. So im avoiding doing this until I do a little research. I didnt get any primmer on the roof today. I found a few spots I was not happy with so I did more blocking but its getting closer. I need to order those durablocks, its hard for me to block the front of the cab where it rounds over.

[collins10672]

as your uncle suggests i would prime the top of the cab and then you can take a small brush and paint around the drip rail,let it dry and then spread the seam sealer around the drip rail and then primer back over that and paint it later whatever color your going with.the reason your uncle suggests painting the drip rail first is to keep moisture from getting in the gutter surface rusting it and then it would push the seam sealer out away from it later on down the road causing water to start seeping in around the roof skin causing that famous rust over the windshield that plagues so many of the 60-66's.

[Strodder]

Or just take the roof rails off like I did.

[allaboutchevelles]

Thanks collins. That does make good sense. I guess I need to go get some white paint!! Strodder your roof is looking good but im glad im about done with my roof.

[allaboutchevelles]

I think Im ready for 1st coat of filler primer on the rear of the roof but I found a few spots at the front I wasnt happy with so more filler and blocking before primmer. Been doing yard work all today so may get back to the truck in the next few days.

[structures]

Hey Chevelles, nice progress.

[allaboutchevelles]

anyone get the new feb. 2012 classic trucks magazine also. Its got a bada$$ 65 c10 on the front cover. Im having the same vision for my truck. Does going down to the shop and looking around for a few minutes then coming back up to the house and getting in the recliner count as progress???

[flips72]

it does at my house

[chad64chevy]

i got my issue this month! i bought the same sided mirrors thats on that truck, there california style mirrors!