Tow Bar Ideas 71 C10

[Hack71]

Looking for ideas for tow bar mount on my 71 c10 automatic. I want to tow my truck cross country multiple times. I do not want to remove, alter or modify my front bumper, my truck is lowered 3 inches. I do not want to tow dolly or trailer this truck. I own a tow bar for my Jeep and would like to use this. I know I will have to disconnect the driveshaft. Has anyone made this modification, thanks

['68OrangeSunshine]

I had to buy a tow bar from U Haul and rent their box truck, some years ago to rescue my '67 K/10 Suburban from California, after it had a carb fire.
I did have to drill 2 extra 1/2'' holes in the front bumper about 4'' toward center and also use the inboard bumper boltholes to mount the double-looped brackets the tow bar pins link into.
Just to be on the safe side, you might want to disconnect your driveshaft[s] to save your automatic tranny, if towing any distance.

[72 tigger]

I’ve used a tow bar several times and I always just unplugged the 2 lights then removed the 6 bumper bolts. I have a piece of c channel with holes that match the frame that is attached to my tow bar. I can usually switch it in 20 minutes. Also, if you want the taillights on your towed truck to work, you can unplug the taillight wiring harnesses at the firewall and connect to your truck that is pulling it by using a flat 4 trailer wiring harness. I made mine using the female plug from a old harness- hope this makes sense

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by 72 tigger

I’ve used a tow bar several times and I always just unplugged the 2 lights then removed the 6 bumper bolts. I have a piece of c channel with holes that match the frame that is attached to my tow bar. I can usually switch it in 20 minutes. Also, if you want the taillights on your towed truck to work, you can unplug the taillight wiring harnesses at the firewall and connect to your truck that is pulling it by using a flat 4 trailer wiring harness. I made mine using the female plug from a old harness- hope this makes sense

This sounds like a good technical solution. You'll need to get back to the frame, either by removing the bumper, going around the bumper or on top of the show surface of the bumper.

I had similar wiring set up to allow brake, turn and running lights on the towed vehicle: a "jumper harness" that went from the four pin flat on the truck to a connector under the front bumper of the car.

Having said that: what are you intending to use for a tow vehicle? Unless it is a giant motor coach I would not recommend flat towing across country. My experience pulling a car trailer all over the US is that there are enough bad drivers out there to get you into trouble no matter how careful you are. The towed vehicle won't have any braking so the tow vehicle better have enough for the whole rig. Inattentive, impatient, unsympathetic, aggressive drivers can all add up to an unpleasant experience.

And this is from someone that has done a fair share of flat towing...

K

[Keith Seymore]

For the GTO the tow bar brackets (tow tabs) go through the opening in the middle of the bumper to access the frame. Perhaps you could go through the park/turn opening and do something similar.

The Chevelle had structure behind the bumper that gloved inside the chrome. I made similar tow bar brackets that attached to that structure and dropped down below the bumper (collapsible energy absorbing shocks were replaced with steel tube).

You might also notice we put the tab on the car, providing the corresponding double shear on the tow bar. Some people do it the other way around but I think this keeps the front of the car looking a little cleaner.

If you remove the driveshaft completely then you'll need to plug the tailshaft of the trans to keep from losing your fluid. You might have enough room underneath to leave the slip yoke in place and secure the loose end of the shaft under the vehicle somewhere; I never had enough space under the car to do that.

One other condition I should mention is that if you happen to hit sand or loose gravel while making a turn sometimes the steering wheel of the towed vehicle will kick the wrong way, bringing everything to a sudden stop. You have to get out, walk (or run) back to the vehicle and turn the steering wheel in the correct direction before completing the turn. If this happens in an intersection (a likely spot) or turning into a venue like a racetrack, campground or fair ground (also likely) it's a bit uncomfortable to do this with traffic waiting. You can add ballast to the trunk of a passenger car, which drops the rear down and increases the caster, helping the car to track better (photos 2 and 3). I suspect a pickup truck would not respond well to this technique.

You also have to design the tow bar to be horizontal, or (better yet) with the trailer hitch ball higher than the towbar, so that braking forces the front of the towed vehicle down. If the hitch ball is low then the towed vehicle can "climb", rotating the tow bar up (counterclockwise when viewed from the left), and will end up on top of the towed vehicle bending all kinds of stuff up in the process. In the pictures in the previous post photos the set up is good in all the pictures except the second one. That set up is not preferred.

Combined with having to switch tires at the track from street to drag slicks, and then back again before heading home, "Flat towing" with a tow bar is the reason I have two trailers.

K

[Hack71]

I flat tow my Jeep behind my pick up all over the country. Tow vehicle is a 2500HD. I am familiar with tow angle needs. I'm not a big fan of tow dollys or owning a trailer. There is braking systems available for flat towing, kind of pricey but cheaper than a trailer. I want to keep the out side of the truck looking clean with no brackets bolted to or thru the bumper. I know I need to get under and back to the frame to make this work. I would like to avoid removal of the front bumper each time as I already have time involved in disconnecting/connecting the rear shaft. In a perfect world I would own a 30' enclosed trailer with a new 3500HD Durmax pulling it, lol. Don't have the space for the trailer and don't want to spend the money on the truck to pull it.
Was looking to see if someone built one or had a pictures of something similar. Thanks

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by Hack71

In a perfect world I would own a 30' enclosed trailer with a new 3500HD Durmax pulling it, lol. Don't have the space for the trailer and don't want to spend the money on the truck to pull it.

Well - if you ever change your mind that 2500HD would pull an enclosed trailer with no problem.

Can't help with the space situation, though....

K

[harpo231]

If you remove the driveshaft completely then you'll need to plug the tailshaft of the trans to keep from losing your fluid.


http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1522087720

Summit - $6.99

[truckster]

I've flat-towed my Blazer across the country. I built custom brackets that I bolted to the frame with grade 8 bolts. Those connected to the tow bar with pins. Unfortunately, my Blazer is bare to the firewall right now, so I can't take any pics for you.

[Hack71]

Great pics! Thanks for the advice on the trans plug. Love the matching truck trailer combo!

[72 tigger]

This is the electrical connection that plugs into the harness at the firewall. Nice truck to tow with!

[Hack71]

72 tigger

[67swb72klb]

Back in the day I would just pull the front bumper off (20 Min w/hand tools) and bolt the tow bar to the frame OK City to MI never a problem

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by 67swb72klb

Back in the day I would just pull the front bumper off (20 Min w/hand tools) and bolt the tow bar to the frame OK City to MI never a problem

That does save drilling thru some tough slippery [chrome] steel. In my case I was unconcerned with looks.

[Hack71]

I know not that big of a deal removing the bumper, just looking for a trick way to do this. Love this site for peoples knowledge and creativity. I will keep you posted on what I do, thanks