Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4

[NastyBuzzard]

Seems to fit with no drilling! I have some revisions to make to make it better though!

[DieselRat]

dayumm! you liked my crossmember, yours is absolutely sweet!

and just saw you posted my pics, I made sure the top of my front cab mount/spring hanger was level with the top of the frame as thats how the true 4x4 frame was. For future note, I make a mark with a chisel at the center of the bushing hole on the stock mount, then just found center on the 4x4 mount and lined it up, drilled the holes. Fit perfectly when I put the front clip back on.

How are you going to mount up a front sway bar? I plan to add mine back in, possibly with the 4x4 sway, using the 2x4 brackets which look like they drop down a little, and of course the holes should still be there to mount them up since its the 2x4 frame.

[NastyBuzzard]

It's getting there! This was just first run of parts with some oversized holes to make sure I got the holes lined up and all. Gonna make a few changes and make a final one sometime soon. I'm glad you like it!

As far as sway bar, since mine is lifted I'm going to make some spacer type mounts (similar to diy4x or ord ones that has the pin so you can easily remove the sway bar) to raise the mounting point of the sway bar about 2" so it will be more level and in line with the frame like it should be, I was also considering trying to use the 2wd mounts. We shall see.

[DieselRat]

Yea exactly what I meant. With the lift I have just holding it in place its def not parallel to the frame anymore. I didn't get rid of my 2wd xmember piece and noticed the mounts for that drop down a good 1 1/2" or so. I may yank them off and see what I can come up with this weekend.

Cool thing with mine was it actually had a rear sway on it as well. I put the mounts under the U bolts in the back but same deal, it needs to be lowered some to work. For now I'm not too worried about the rear, would be nice in the front as I can feel it shimmy when I hit bumps.

[NastyBuzzard]

I just want it for when I'm towing. A rear sway bar too huh? Hmm I may have to look into that.

[NastyBuzzard]

This was my first time removing hubs and what not from a dana 60, more specifically the 1 ton version. It took me a good while to figure out how the calipers came off seeing how they are pinned and not bolted as usual.

I took some measurements to start to try and develop some mounting brackets for the H3 calipers.



How do I "check" the king pins? It doesn't feel loose in any direction per say.



I also needed to get the bed off and couldn't get anyone to come help...Finally had to go get my cherry picker and try and remove it by myself. It wasn't easy. Worst part is I put the truck on jack stands up front in a bad spot leaving hardly any room to work at the rear. I got it, a lot of luck was involved though.

As you can see I had to add some weight for it to balance decently.



Shes naked again! Hopefully I can get to drilling all those extra holes and start swapping to grade 8 hardware for the stuff I have mounted in the rear!

I also have to move the fuel door on the bed and paint the bottom of it and fenderwheels with the chassis saver paint I did on the rest of the fame/cab.

[silverbear]

I am liking the progress you are making. I really like the detail in that cross member. Showing a little love for the TA on the crew cab...nice.

[NastyBuzzard]

Thank you. Hopefully once I get all these designs nailed down it will be a lot easier to swap one over to 4x4 if the need ever arises.

The bird is actually supposed to be my little "Nastybuzzard" emblem. It is just so small on the crossmember it is hard to flesh out any details so I can see how you would think that about the TA.

[NastyBuzzard]

Anyone know MCMLXIX from this thread about Dana 60 Brake Upgrades?

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=463042

I am trying to reach out for more information. Oh how I would love to run dodge 14.125" OD rotors up front on my dana 60 with dodges dual piston calipers. I know they will fit with me running the 17" dodge wheels...

[porpaintt]

Hey Nasty,my 90 1 ton crew/w a 6.2 has a 375 behind it not a 400.
375s are not electric kick downs.
I also have a 6.5 long block,that is new.

[NastyBuzzard]

375? That is interesting for sure, 400s aren't electric either they are vacuum. I am jealous of the 6.5 long block for sure. I really wish I could get my hands on a banks turbo setup or ats designed for 6.2

[porpaintt]

Nasty,I think if you look up the 400 on the internet you will find it is a electric kick down,the 375 is a glorified 350 with a cable kick down and a vacuum modulator,and the 475 is a heavy duty 400,with a cable kick down,and a vacuum modulator.
The switch for the 400 is a slider on the gas pedal bracket.
The 375 and the 475 are usually marked on the tail shaft housing.

Nice work you guys are doing.
By the way if anyone is interested in the 6.5 it can be bought for $500.00 bucks.
The heads are worth that,because they will work on a 6,2 also,and the 90 (c30) truck with the 6.2 (with 112,000 on it can be had for $1900.00,with the flatbed.
I have no need for them anymore.

[NastyBuzzard]

Good information! I didn't know that. I don't really deal much in non OD transmissions though.

I wish I could get the 6.5 off your hands but Ohio is quite a ways away otherwise I would pick it up for sure.

[NastyBuzzard]

Yes! I have seen that and that is the plan for the most part. I want to keep my 14BFF, it has 4.10 gears to match the front and is in excellent condition. I plan to develop something similar or just use a kit like that if it is truly available. I just can't stand using the front calipers on the rear or the el dorado calipers that don't half ass work and you have to set every time you change pads.

Right now I am still struggling to figure something out for the front, I don't plan on putting it back together with stock brakes but I hate having it stuck on jack stands!

[porpaintt]

Hey Nasty,I am attaching 2 pictures of the crew I am building,73 3+3.
Look at the narrow pillar between the doors,and see if you can tell me what went there in those two holes,they look like a factory hole.
I took this truck apart 20+ years ago,and don't remember what was there.
Thanks

[porpaintt]

On another note,I have heard of Saluda NC,where is Saluda SC?
Saluda NC has the steepest railroad grade in the US ,4.3 percent

[mcmlxix]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=121

Check out my build thread (signature) or the link above for my idea about Version 2.0 for my brake upgrade using Spyntec hubs...

[mcmlxix]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...52&postcount=5
Here is more info and pics on the rear disc conversion bracket...

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by mcmlxix

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...52&postcount=5
Here is more info and pics on the rear disc conversion bracket...

I tried to find that bracket to buy... They don't list it on ebay anymore and I cannot find it on there site???

[mcmlxix]

Originally Posted by NastyBuzzard

I tried to find that bracket to buy... They don't list it on ebay anymore and I cannot find it on there site???

I think you just have to call them. Hopefully they still offer it. Once my Blazer is finished I can sell off some spare parts including the brakes....and knowing that the brackets really available will help.

[NastyBuzzard]

Exactly, if you have a spare set I may be interested but I would need those brackets. I was going to start designing my own until I found those. Then I was like well since it already exits then blam couldn't find them for sale. I will see about giving them a call or something.

Right now though the main concern is finding a solution for the front. I don't want to swap to ford knuckles and use their brakes but they seem a lot better than stock at the least. I am not sure what options I have.

[NastyBuzzard]

I'll look into it but that's a first for me. I can't say they couldn't be factory or dealer but they look like someone added those holes. I'll do some investigating.

[NastyBuzzard]

Saluda SC is in the midlands. About 40 miles west of Columbia SC. Super small town in the woods

[NastyBuzzard]

Not much for updates.. It was a very busy weekend. Hopefully I will get my revised engine xmember on order this week.

I will be picking up a 1 ton crew cab 4x4 front frame section next weekend though. It should make the next crew cab 4x4 swap much easier, but mostly I will be jigging it up to make some more prototype parts off of .







I also found another NV4500 swapper who didn't want to use the AA conversion bellhousing that is around $500 total. He had 4" lift but said even at stock height he said it would never come close to having the driveshaft hitting the bellhousing on the crew cab.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/chevy...g-build-3.html

So I started to look at ways for me to do it, one hurdle was the plastic line. I didn't really like the swagelock piece that he used...

This one.. https://www.swagelok.com/en/catalog/...-500-6-4&item=

So I went to look at the factory Nv4500 clutch parts.

So... The plastic line has a metal line... Idk why I thought it was all plastic! Problem solved.



Use this and make an AN line/SS braided line to the Wilwood Master and voila right?





I guess we shall see!

mcmlxix I contacted the people who made the bracket to bolt onto 14BFF to convert to newer style brakes and guess what. Their volume wasn't high enough so they quit selling the part!! So ****. Still trying to work out what I am going to do for brakes.

[MalibuSSwagon]

I'll have to do some digging for the parts list, but we did a NV3500 swap in my buddies 88 Suburban using the stock 1994 slave cylinder with that adapter, the stock squarebody master with an AN adapter and a custom line. Worked quite well.

Looks like I deleted the parts list. But the adapter for the master is easy to find, and you already found the slave adapter.