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Old 04-14-2013, 03:12 AM   #1
essner
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Engine trans question

Hey guys I have a quick question, ,maybe not so quick lol....I have a daily driver that I was driving the other day it was running perfectly fine until I got to a stop light, it just died...when I went to start the car again the starter just clicked (once)... I thought could be a bad starter but the starter couldn't shut the car off once it's already started right? Second I thought maybe it could be the alt. But then the alt can't be the cause of the car just cause the starter to click once could it? I also checked battery voltage and its good... Tried to jump it also and same just one click from the starter. I was also wondering if it could be that the flex plate is jammed up against the starter not allowing the motor to turn...

Please help thanks,
Devan
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Old 04-14-2013, 09:40 AM   #2
homemade87
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Re: Engine trans question

sounds like your alt has stopped working. Once the battery gets so low the engine does not have enough power to run. If you have drained you battery running the engine with no alt It makes it very hard to jump. The low battery will suck the power and none will get to the starter. Charge the battery or get a known good battery and see what happens. If you can get it cranked check the voltage and see what you are getting. You could also take the alt to your local parts store and have them check it. Good luck

Last edited by homemade87; 04-14-2013 at 09:57 AM.
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Old 04-14-2013, 11:18 AM   #3
GASoline71
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Re: Engine trans question

Depending on the year of vehicle... It might be the voltage regulator. Up until 1972 or 1973 the alternators in Chevy/GMC trucks were externally regulated with a little black box mounted on the radiator support by the drivers side headlight.

Pull the regulator out and have it tested. Or if internally regulated alternator, do as described above and have it tested. An external regulator is about $20 bucks...

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I love using vacuum gauges as part of the carb tuning process. I hook the gauge to the inside of my garbage can and leave it there.
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Remember Murphys 2nd law of mechanical relationships... "OPPOSING COMPONENTS ATTEMPTING TO OCCUPY THE SAME SPACE, AT THE SAME TIME, GENERALLY END UP OCCUPYING ADJOINING SPACE AT THE BOTTOM OF THE OIL PAN"
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Old 04-14-2013, 11:40 AM   #4
meatwagon83
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Re: Engine trans question

dead alternator
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Old 04-14-2013, 12:51 PM   #5
GASoline71
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Re: Engine trans question

Not necessarily. If it's an internally regulated alternator... yes. But if its an earlier model externally regulated alternator, then it will most likely be the voltage regulator on the radiator support.

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My 1972 GMC 1500 Super Custom (Creeping Death) "long term" build thread.

The Rebuild of Creeping Death after the wreck

Quote:
Originally Posted by LONGHAIR View Post
I would never rebuild a 305.
Quote:
Originally Posted by prostreetC-10 View Post
I love using vacuum gauges as part of the carb tuning process. I hook the gauge to the inside of my garbage can and leave it there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marv D View Post
Remember Murphys 2nd law of mechanical relationships... "OPPOSING COMPONENTS ATTEMPTING TO OCCUPY THE SAME SPACE, AT THE SAME TIME, GENERALLY END UP OCCUPYING ADJOINING SPACE AT THE BOTTOM OF THE OIL PAN"
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Originally Posted by cableguy0 View Post
Its cheaper to listen to advice given when you ask for help than it is to ignore everyone and wait for carnage.
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Old 04-14-2013, 01:34 PM   #6
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Re: Engine trans question

ok after re-reading his first post he said a jump wouldnt work and the battery is at full voltage, to me that means battery cables or connections, make sure the positive cable isnt melted to the exhaust manifold grounding the system out
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Old 04-14-2013, 01:55 PM   #7
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Re: Engine trans question

But would a bad alt cause the motor not to turn manually?
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Old 04-14-2013, 02:48 PM   #8
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Re: Engine trans question

So you are saying the motor is locked and won't turn with a socket on the harmonic balancer bolt. How did you check for this. Did you hear some sort of mechanical noise when the motor shut down.
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Old 04-14-2013, 03:04 PM   #9
essner
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Re: Engine trans question

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So you are saying the motor is locked and won't turn with a socket on the harmonic balancer bolt. How did you check for this. Did you hear some sort of mechanical noise when the motor shut down.
Yes, it won't turn with a socket, I checked this after I checked the battery and starter just to see if it would turn but it didn't...no sound when the truck shut off, I just checked
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Old 04-14-2013, 03:21 PM   #10
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Re: Engine trans question

You definetly have a mechanical issue then. You should beable to take the inspection cover off the trans and look to see if you have a issue at the flywheel or starter. Starter may have come loose and locked itself to the flywheel. I would check the accessories on the front of the motor as well just to be sure you dont have a bearing that locked that may have stalled the motor at low idle and may also be keeping you from turning the motor. Take the belts off to do this. If nothing there , There is only one other place . The internals of the engine. That means the engine has to come out and break it down. Hope it dont have to come to that .

Last edited by homemade87; 04-14-2013 at 03:35 PM.
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Old 04-14-2013, 05:10 PM   #11
GASoline71
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Re: Engine trans question

Don't turn the engine by the bolt that retains the balancer. If it shears, you got big problems. There are proper tools to use to turn a crankshaft. Did you try turning it with the plugs out? If not... it will be a bear to turn, as your fighting cylinder compression.

Gary
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My 1972 GMC 1500 Super Custom (Creeping Death) "long term" build thread.

The Rebuild of Creeping Death after the wreck

Quote:
Originally Posted by LONGHAIR View Post
I would never rebuild a 305.
Quote:
Originally Posted by prostreetC-10 View Post
I love using vacuum gauges as part of the carb tuning process. I hook the gauge to the inside of my garbage can and leave it there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marv D View Post
Remember Murphys 2nd law of mechanical relationships... "OPPOSING COMPONENTS ATTEMPTING TO OCCUPY THE SAME SPACE, AT THE SAME TIME, GENERALLY END UP OCCUPYING ADJOINING SPACE AT THE BOTTOM OF THE OIL PAN"
Quote:
Originally Posted by cableguy0 View Post
Its cheaper to listen to advice given when you ask for help than it is to ignore everyone and wait for carnage.
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Old 04-14-2013, 09:07 PM   #12
kf4jfk
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Re: Engine trans question

My '64 did this to me the other day. I found that the ground cable that went to the batery terminal was full of corrosion and not letting a full load get to the starter. The truck would just click and then lose power. After cutting off an inch of the ground cable and cleaning most of the corrosion off of the wire, the truck has been starting great every since.
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Old 04-15-2013, 01:51 PM   #13
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Re: Engine trans question

Quote:
Originally Posted by kf4jfk View Post
My '64 did this to me the other day. I found that the ground cable that went to the batery terminal was full of corrosion and not letting a full load get to the starter. The truck would just click and then lose power. After cutting off an inch of the ground cable and cleaning most of the corrosion off of the wire, the truck has been starting great every since.
A few posts up he confirms it's a mechanical lock up. Can't turn the engine at all. This eliminates electrical problems. Need to diagnose the mechanical problems as recommended above (first take off belts and work from there).
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Old 04-15-2013, 03:23 PM   #14
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Re: Engine trans question

I think there is more to the story that is not being disclosed, Full mechanical lockup? just stopped, no noise,, overheating?

what kind of car,truck?
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