Painting in stages

[mgore68]

Newbie and worried but I am going to give this painting a shot. My main question is this. Do you need to shoot the whole truck at one time or can you do the bed one day, the hood one day and so on. Is it going to change the shade of the paint doing it in stages?

I am really leaning toward a silver metallic, I would love to go black but being my first time just a little worried. It can't be a whole lot worse than it is now though.

[Indian113]

I'm not a expert on painting but I would think a Silver Metallic would be a real hard one to paint in stages. Getting a match on everything would take some Luck. But that is my Opinion I could be wrong.

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by mgore68

Newbie and worried but I am going to give this painting a shot. My main question is this. Do you need to shoot the whole truck at one time or can you do the bed one day, the hood one day and so on. Is it going to change the shade of the paint doing it in stages?

I am really leaning toward a silver metallic, I would love to go black but being my first time just a little worried. It can't be a whole lot worse than it is now though.

I know pro painters who do this stuff every day who can't pull that off, just saying.

Here is a "Basics of Basics" on the subject. It will give you both views and how to pull it off.

http://www.autobodystore.com/ms27.shtml

Brian

[mgore68]

Thanks for the info.

[hugger6933]

I would not suggest you painting
A Silver metallic
B Pieces in stages.
For your first paint job look at something non metallic and in a solid color so painting in part would not be as much of an issue. I have a 68 RED LeMans convert and it was painted back half first and front half later. The paint came from the same can but is two different colors. The temp and humidity played parts I feel in the car being a unplanned two tone. Some people say they can't or don't see it but I do. I have painted several trucks all blown apart and have had great degrees of success in doing so BUT[there is always a but]you also increase the chance of scratches in reassembly in doing it that way.
Now if you have neither the time or space to paint it all put together don't let me stop you at worse case you have to go ahead then put it together then wet sand it down blow paint on the scratches and reclear the truck. I know that is money you may have not planned on spending but really it isn't that much money if it has to be done. Jim

[bs46488]

I'm a newbie and doing the exact same thing with a gray metallic paint.

1) Yes the metallic paint is very hard to paint
2) Yes it shows any tiny blemish in my body work prep
3) Yes you can see a color difference between the panels

I am also working on a Nova and am now heavily thinking about painting it Arctic White because of my experience with the metallic paint.

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by bs46488

I'm a newbie and doing the exact same thing with a gray metallic paint.

1) Yes the metallic paint is very hard to paint
2) Yes it shows any tiny blemish in my body work prep
3) Yes you can see a color difference between the panels

I am also working on a Nova and am now heavily thinking about painting it Arctic White because of my experience with the metallic paint.

Don't feel bad, I have seen guys with years and years of experience not be able to pull it off. I have seen white do the same thing though!

Check this out, if you clear has a yellow tint to it, which most all do to some extent, the more clear you put on the yellower it gets right?

You STILL want to paint it and clear it as I have described applying the most even amount of material over every square inch of the panel.

I remember a pro painter at a shop I worked having painted a quarter panel on a white car, and blended the rear door. The door didn't match the quarter at the back, and it didn't match the front door that it matched before he blended it! There wasn't a speck of paint at the front edge of the rear door where it met the front door, yet it was MUCH yellower in color there. And then, it was whiter than the quarter at the rear and it was painted with the same paint! I checked it with a mil gauge and the middle of the door was thinner than the end at the front door! He had applied the clear stopping gun movement at the end of the panel DOUBLING the "coats" at the edge! And he had done the same thing while painting the quarter.

If you are painting panels on a rack or something you want to spray off the end as if the next panel was there. If you stop too soon and come back in the other direction you are applying MORE than one coat at the end!

Here is a link to an article on the subject. The photo is gone, I need to make a new one for them. But read it and you should get the idea. http://www.camaros.net/forums/12-bod...nique-tip.html

Brian

[mgore68]

Good info guy's. Now I am stuck on colors again. I may just go Black and do the best I can on the bodywork and block sanding. Black is my favorite color choice for this style truck I am doing. I got some serious thinking to do.

[Foot Stomper]

Black will be your worst enemy. Know this going in. It will reveal every single body work error you make to everyone that looks at it.
If you're comfortable with that then go black.

[mgore68]

What about gray like it is now. Is gray gonna be a mess also? It seems like the colors I like are all super hard to paint. I like the color it is now it's just very dull and skint up in places. Black would be beautiful on it with the chrome accents I want to add. I'm just gonna have to mak up my mind but I got a while to think on it.

[66Project]

Heres a couple of videos I just happen to come across of Kevin Tenz explaining how he sprays metallics. Might help ya out.

Part1
https://youtu.be/nFBpKSCbhbI
Part2

https://youtu.be/gywR5qFpoxY