47-55.1 LS Swap Drive by Wire Throttle Pedal Mounting Help in a '54

[Gregski]

So I am beginning to see the light at the end of the tunnel in my 5.3L LS Swap to my '54 with a second gen Camaro front subframe, however the other day I got more confused than a blind goat on astro turf whilst trying to get the drive by wire throttle pedal out of a 2004 Silverado mounted in the cab

there's that big round bulge in the middle of the firewall which prevents me from mounting it to the right more where it would feel more natural, plus the pedal arm I think needs a shortening as well

Well, I aint one to reinvent the wheel if somone's done did it before so I figure I ask for help, pics greatly appreciated.

[awhite4557]

Lokar has a drive by wire universal pedal available from Summit Racing
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/l...6/applications

[dsraven]

if you wanna keep the original Silverado pedal just cut it off and mount the base to the firewall then add the pedal back on where it needs to be and roughly the same overall length so pedal travel from idle to wide open throttle stays about the same as it was . doesn't even need to be the same pedal if you have one from another car you can cut the pedal part off. ensure you have full travel with a floor mat under it and the idle height is at an acceptable height so you don't get a cramp in your leg on longer drives. it's just a pedal you can change if it isn't right. whaddya got to lose? remove the actual sensor if it bolts on, like a lot of truck ones do, then you don't have to worry about the plastic distorting. if it doesn't unbolt then protect it with a damp rag or something similar.
or buy one that is adjustable

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by awhite4557

Lokar has a drive by wire universal pedal available from Summit Racing
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/l...6/applications

thank you

[mongocanfly]

I modified my bracket and the pedal arm to fit my IH firewall...
Chances are if the stock one don't fit ,then you'll have issues with the lokar also...
Looks like the lokar will need a lokar module as well...

[layinrocker65]

I have a different pedal(CTS-V) but this is what I did. Bracket is welded to the firewall and pedal easily bolts on. Did have to mod the bracket a little. I will then mount the stock 53 pedal to the bottom of the new pedal. I couldn’t bolt on the bracket as I don’t want bolts going into the engine bay.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by dsraven

if you wanna keep the original Silverado pedal just cut it off and mount the base to the firewall then add the pedal back on where it needs to be and roughly the same overall length so pedal travel from idle to wide open throttle stays about the same as it was . doesn't even need to be the same pedal if you have one from another car you can cut the pedal part off. ensure you have full travel with a floor mat under it and the idle height is at an acceptable height so you don't get a cramp in your leg on longer drives. it's just a pedal you can change if it isn't right. whaddya got to lose? remove the actual sensor if it bolts on, like a lot of truck ones do, then you don't have to worry about the plastic distorting. if it doesn't unbolt then protect it with a damp rag or something similar.
or buy one that is adjustable

thank you for the kick in the pants

[Gregski]

and here it is with the carpet and with or without the plastic cover I made for it, but I think sometime in the future I will fab something out of metal that looks a bit more smart

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by layinrocker65

I have a different pedal(CTS-V) but this is what I did. Bracket is welded to the firewall and pedal easily bolts on. Did have to mod the bracket a little. I will then mount the stock 53 pedal to the bottom of the new pedal. I couldn’t bolt on the bracket as I don’t want bolts going into the engine bay.

I soooo dig just welding the vice grips to it and calling it good, with a matching set on the window cranks of course, ha ha

[dsraven]

if you find the throttle is twitchy or a little hard to keep a constant, like a little pedal movement makes a big difference and makes it a challenge to cruise, you may have to lengthen the pedal lever a bit. a longer lever arm would mean more pedal movement for the same amount of movement at the sensor.
nice job getting it to fit in the limited space.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by dsraven

if you find the throttle is twitchy or a little hard to keep a constant, like a little pedal movement makes a big difference and makes it a challenge to cruise, you may have to lengthen the pedal lever a bit. a longer lever arm would mean more pedal movement for the same amount of movement at the sensor.
nice job getting it to fit in the limited space.

thanks and not to argue, but isn't the throw the same in both cases regardless of the length of the pedal lever, I think the reason the stock pedal is so long is because it is mounted way up high on the firewall and needs to hang down some

anywho, thanks for the advice and fingers crossed

[dsraven]

here is what I mean by the pedal lever length.
if you lay a pencil on the edge of the table and hold one end so it can pivot from that end, then move the other end a couple inches up the table and stop. you will see the end of the pencil that you moved was moved a couple inches but, if you look at a point say 1/2 way up the pencil length, that point didn't move as far.
anyway, you may find it works great like that but if you find a little pedal movement makes to big of a difference you could just lengthen the pedal arm later.

[b-mac]

My thread on a similar subject:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=763040

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by dsraven

if you find the throttle is twitchy or a little hard to keep a constant, like a little pedal movement makes a big difference and makes it a challenge to cruise, you may have to lengthen the pedal lever a bit. a longer lever arm would mean more pedal movement for the same amount of

once upon a time I put CBR 600F4i throttle bodies on a 4 cylinder engine and didnt lengthen the throttle arm where the cable attached. the bike throttle was 1/4 turn so hooking the truck pedal up had like 1 1/2" travel between idle and WOT, it was like an ON/OFF switch