magnets for aluminum transmission pan.

[forestb]

I am installing an aluminum transmission pan on my th350 and was wondering how I should put the magnet in. Should I just let it slosh around in there? Or should I put a really strong magnet on the other side to keep it in place? Or will a magnetic drain plug do?

Also is there a tightening sequence I should fallow when bolting it down or should I say up?

[kwmech]

If you want a larger magnet than the drain plug you can glue the magnet down to the pan with some JB weld.

[forestb]

I was just thinking would it work to use the drain plug to keep the magnet in place?

Does the magnet drain plug do the trick?

[Marv D]

Curious. I seldom see anything but brass and friction dust in a trans pan. Not saying it's not worth the effort but,, ...well I guess the goal is to never see anything on the magnet hu! Unless something goes horribly astray,, I thing that's what you 'll see.

A good epoxy will hold the magnet in place in the pan. Make SURe it's perfectly clean and oil free before you glue it down. I found some epoxy the refrigeration repair guys use is stupid strong and holds up to pressure and temp very well.

[storm9c1]

Originally Posted by Marv D

Curious. I seldom see anything but brass and friction dust in a trans pan. Not saying it's not worth the effort but,, ...well I guess the goal is to never see anything on the magnet hu! Unless something goes horribly astray,, I thing that's what you 'll see.

Not a transmission expert but most of that "friction dust" will stick to a magnet and help keep the abrasive material out of the fluid. On the 4L60E for example, the magnet has "rows" molded into it. And even on low mileage transmissions, I've seen material build up on these rows to form stripes on the magnet. I don't want that crap in my fluid.

You could clean a spot on the pan (similar to the stock location) really good with brake cleaner. Use a piece of sand paper and scuff up the area. Clean it again. Dry it with compressed air. Then use JB Weld or the aforementioned 2-part industrial epoxy. Not the cheap Harbor Freight stuff either.

I like the surface area afforded by the stock magnet. I think a magnetic drain plug will work too... but only if the fluid is changed more frequently or the truck is used for light duty.

FWIW, I've had conversations with several good transmission guys over the years and none of them like the aftermarket cast pans. They all tell me that the pickup tube is the biggest concern with non-stock depth pans. Even the ones with risers that retain the stock pickup and filter is no good in their eyes since they claim the risers never properly support the filter. They also claim that the extra fluid in deep pans do very little for the life of the transmission. They also told me to make sure the new pan comes with bolts. if not, you can strip the case if you use the original bolts since they won't thread in far enough. I've actually been burned by this too and had to use helicoils over the years to fix this mistake. So if you must use a cast pan, make sure you use longer bolts!

They all tell me that a cooler is a better investment.

[forestb]

It is a stock depth aluminum pan. I am replacing my old mettle pan because the flanges are all warped. I would try to hammer it out but there are ridges in between each hole that I am worried that I will flatten.

Will normal bolts with a washer work or do I need ones that have a built in washer like the originals

[forestb]

Can someone tell me the bolt and thread size for the stock bolts?

Also is there a specific torque sequence I need to fallow?

[kwmech]

The stock pan bolts are 5/16-18 by 1/2'' long and are a pan head. The torque I've always used is 100 INCH pounds