72 ABS brake lines

[HO455]

The easiest would be to do away with the ABS system. You will need the complete computer system if you decide to go ABS. Be aware that the donor vehicle must be very close in weight, wheelbase, and wheel size to get the ABS to work properly in the new vehicle. This is not a project for the untrained.

[josuito]

Originally Posted by HO455

The easiest would be to do away with the ABS system. You will need the complete computer system if you decide to go ABS. Be aware that the donor vehicle must be very close in weight, wheelbase, and wheel size to get the ABS to work properly in the new vehicle. This is not a project for the untrained.

Is it better then to go ABS? Sorry I didn't understood your answer.
I shorten the frame to 127" and matches my 72 k10 suburban, I'm not to sure about the weight.

[C130Nav]

i'm planning on doing the same thing you are. I have a 4x4 Avalanche chassis, that I'm going to shorten and drop my '71 Burb on to convert it from 2WD to 4WD.

I was looking at the systems that will need to be changed, and my plan is to remove and bypass all the ABS stuff.The front lines are going to have to be made from scratch anyway, so I think just feeding the existing rear lines with a single line and a "T" from the master cylinder might be the best way to go.

Where are you on the body swap? How does it sit on the newer chassis? I'm concerned about it being "ass end high" due to the coil spring rear suspension; and not really looking to stuffing a body lift under the front end to get it riding level.

[josuito]

Originally Posted by C130Nav

i'm planning on doing the same thing you are. I have a 4x4 Avalanche chassis, that I'm going to shorten and drop my '71 Burb on to convert it from 2WD to 4WD.

I was looking at the systems that will need to be changed, and my plan is to remove and bypass all the ABS stuff.The front lines are going to have to be made from scratch anyway, so I think just feeding the existing rear lines with a single line and a "T" from the master cylinder might be the best way to go.

Where are you on the body swap? How does it sit on the newer chassis? I'm concerned about it being "ass end high" due to the coil spring rear suspension; and not really looking to stuffing a body lift under the front end to get it riding level.

That's what I had on mind but I wasn't to sure, just remove the ABS and make new lines for everything with longer stainless steel hoses as I will be lifting the suspension 3" anyways.

I'm cleaning and removing stuff that I won't need like the air system for the shocks and all the wiring system, I already sent the PCM and wires for cutting and reprogram.

This weekend I will be working on the body supports, I will have to lift the body at least 2" to make room for the last 2 bolts on the body as they will hit the spare tire.


Getting there....