New engine - forgetting anything?

[jbharkjr]

So the current engine (350 v8 out of '71 Chevy) finally gave up on me which has given me the option to upgrade. Planning to swap in a 'new' 355 V8 from BluePrint Engines. Some of this may not be necessary but I'm not very sure about most of the components previous owner did so I'm looking to get a fresh start on all of it.

I am looking to get any and all input in regards to anything I've forgot about or anything that would also be a good idea to go ahead and do.

- "New" 355 V8
- New Balancer
- New Flex Plate (1-piece instead of 2-piece rear main seal)
- Break-in Oil
- New Oil Filter
- New Motor Mounts
- New Plugs & Wires
- Rebuild Edelbrock 1406 Carb and Re-Use (basically ordered replacement parts for everything except the electric choke)
- Clean Edelbrock 2701 Intake and Re-use
- New Thermostat (180)
- New Radiator (Old one looks a bit gunked up plus the previous owner botched some of the ports and always had a leaking issue)
- Coolant
- Gaskets for carb, headers and intake manifold

I was going to transfer oil pump and water pump from old engine but considering the low cost...should I just buy new as well?

I think that covers everything I have planned on. Is there anything I've missed or should think about doing while I've got everything out?

Thanks in advance!

[geezer#99]

OIl pumps are cheap, put a new one in.
Same on the water pump.
And while you're at it, plumb in a fuel regulator for your carb that doesn't like more than 5 psi.

[jbharkjr]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

OIl pumps are cheap, put a new one in.
Same on the water pump.
And while you're at it, plumb in a fuel regulator for your carb that doesn't like more than 5 psi.

Sounds good.

Anything wrong with one like this?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-12-803

[geezer#99]

Not the best to control at near the bottom of it's range. I prefer one that maxes at 5.5. Like this.
https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...2518/overview/

You might want to invest in a spacer too. Keeps your carb cool when it gets hot in the summer. Here's an example. THey make them out of aluminum and plastic but wood works quite well.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/8724/10002/-1

[cadillac_al]

Why would a new Blueprint engine need a new oil pump? I would assume it's good and leave the oil pan on it and install as is.

[jbharkjr]

Originally Posted by cadillac_al

Why would a new Blueprint engine need a new oil pump? I would assume it's good and leave the oil pan on it and install as is.

Sorry about that, I looked over it multiple times but I guess I overlooked that it did come with an oil pump. You are right though:

Rotating Assembly:

BluePrint premium cast steel crankshaft
Hypereutectic pistons
Chevy heavy beam rods with 150,000 PSI bolts
Hastings moly rings
Melling high volume oil pump
Hydraulic flat tappet cam
Heavy duty double roller timing set

Thank you!

[americanmusc1e]

I'd probably throw a new fuel pump on it if you are using a mechanical fuel pump.

Throw a new belt on too.

[jbharkjr]

Thanks for all of the input.

On the belt topic, what about converting everything over to a serpentine setup? Would it be worthwhile? I figure if I am replacing belts and water pump, now would be a good time.

From the kits I've looked at, it looks like the A/C pulley might be the part that makes it more difficult.

Anyone used a kit before or can direct me in the right direction?

[storm9c1]

If using a mechanical fuel pump, forget the pressure regulator and use an Edelbrock 1721 pump. It's internally regulated and will JustWork(TM) without any extra plumbing or tweaking. When I use Edelbrock carbs, this is the only pump I use.

[wfojon]

You will probably need a new starter also. I got one of the BP motors with the one piece rear seal and it needed the new style starter.
Jon

[jbharkjr]

Originally Posted by storm9c1

If using a mechanical fuel pump, forget the pressure regulator and use an Edelbrock 1721 pump. It's internally regulated and will JustWork(TM) without any extra plumbing or tweaking. When I use Edelbrock carbs, this is the only pump I use.

Do you remove the return fuel line?

[storm9c1]

Originally Posted by jbharkjr

Do you remove the return fuel line?

Yes.

[jbharkjr]

Originally Posted by storm9c1

Yes.

Sounds good. I'll trace the line back and make sure it is a return line.

Thank you!

[Dead Parrot]

If you pulled the transmission, good time to have new seals installed. And a new transmission mount.

Does the engine come with the oil filter thread mount(can't think of the actual name. Just know my last crate motor didn't include one.)

Replace the battery cables and wire from starter to junction block. Simple with engine out, PITA with engine in.

Good time to repair and paint any rust on the cab floor/firewall.

2nd the new starter idea. Also, much easier to properly shim while the engine is on the stand.

Get a new water pump. A new engine seems to be the sign for parts to fail. And replace your PS pump while you are at it. A dying PS pump can make a sound disturbingly close to a rod knock. Not what you want to hear 2 weeks after installing your new crate motor.

[jbharkjr]

Well, I was able to get the engine fired up for the first time yesterday. Had an issue with a bad ground. Engine was barely turning over, realllly strained. Ground wires were getting hot (smoking hot). Added an additional ground and cleaned up all of the ground points.

And then the engine turned over and started right up. Got the initial timing set and was starting the break-in when I noticed my temp was rising (only around 195-200). I have a 180 thermostat but I noticed a leak had sprung at the thermostat housing.

Think the thermostat was stuck closed but getting that fixed today and then once the blue gasket silicon sets up, I'll try again tomorrow. Was very exciting but also nerve racking lol. Thanks for all of the help!

[geezer#99]

Hope you weren't idling it!
Your cam won't like that.

[jbharkjr]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Hope you weren't idling it!
Your cam won't like that.

Which part? I followed the break-in guide from BluePrint.

For the start-up and initial break-in process, total timing
was set at the factory if your engine was ordered with
a distributor. If your engine was not ordered with a
distributor, total timing should be adjusted to 22° to 24°
at 2,000 rpm to reduce excessive heat or load during
break-in. If the distributor is removed during installation,
total timing must be re-set. Total timing set at the factory
will also need to be verified.
For engines with flat tappet cams: Start the engine and
bring it to 2,000 RPM. Get the engine running smoothly.
Then vary the engine speed from 1,800-2,200 RPM in a
slow acceleration/deceleration cycle for 30 minutes.
This is necessary to provide adequate oil splash and lifter
rotation to properly mate each lifter to its lobe.

[geezer#99]

You said you set the initial timing.
To do that you need it to idle.
I was concerned that you let it idle.
Not good for cam break in.

[jbharkjr]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

You said you set the initial timing.
To do that you need it to idle.
I was concerned that you let it idle.
Not good for cam break in.

Oh I gotcha. Yeah, I've been trying to stay to exactly what the blueprint instructions said. I just got the timing close enough that it'd crank and then bump the rpms up to around 1800 and got the timing set to 24 degrees. Tried to do the varying rpm for 30 minutes although once I saw the coolant coming out around the thermostat housing, I stopped so it wouldn't overheat.

Thanks man, always good info from you.