EZ wiring

[Matt_50]

I finally got ahold of tech support at EZ wiring. Im not sure how many times I have tried, one time I let it ring for 14 minutes. Not upset just a little annoyed. I can understand a small business or one man tech support.

Anyways, in the meantime I found help from others and got my wiring just about done and today I got a couple things clarified.

For example, I moved my battery and put it under the hood. Because I did this I was asked by a few people why have the alternator charge wire go all the way back to fuse box, why not just run the shorter distance to battery or starter solenoid. Made sense to me, less wire distance, voltage drop, resistance and all that stuff I had read about, so I cut the (alt power) wire and I have a wire going straight from alternator to battery. Found the same wiring for my alternator on other diagrams so I figured it just depended on person and company preference.

When I finally got to talk to tech support, he said why'd I cut that before calling him lol. Anyways, he said I could splice it back and run it like he intended or I could go to battery but use a thicker wire. Battery is a foot away vs fuse box being a good 4 feet away.

I'm going to guess that he originally wanted charge wire going back to fuse box because he has no idea where each customer will put the battery in their project. Sound right?



Here's a drawing of how he wanted it. Only thing I changed was cutting the (alt power wire) shortly after fuse box and instead used a section of that wire from alternator to battery positive. I plan to finally get it started next week. Do you guys think this makes a huge differece? Is there any reason I should resplice it back? Is it better to have the alt charge wire go all the way back to fuse box or go the shorter distance?


Matt

[The Rocknrod]

Something doesnt look right on your diagram where the alt is concerned.

[Matt_50]

That's my point. The diagram I show is what the EZ wire guy wants. Bit he did say I could run it where the alt power wire goes to battery instead of through box first.

I was calling to make sure I could deviate from his setup. He doesn't really want me too but says I can by not running it all the way from alt to box and back to battery.

[starterman99]

What gauge wire did you cut. If it was a smaller sized wire it was probably the battery sensing circuit that gives the voltage regulator a system reference point from fuse box to adapt for voltage drop at the fuse box. It should still have a 10 gauge to the battery positive or starter solenoid positive for the main output from alternator.

[Matt_50]

Isn't that what the excitor wire does?

In the diagram I drew that is what the instructions call for... the wire marked "solenoid power wire" is 10 gauge.

The "alt power wire" is a tad smaller. This is the one I cut near the firewall. It's capped off at firewall and now I have the "alt power wire" going straight from alternator batt stud to battery positive.

[Matt_50]

I see I made a little mistake on the drawing. The alt wire goes from alternator stud to to fuse box and the number one wire loops to it.


I eliminated the red alt wire from fuse box to alternator and wired it like in the picture above from Rocknrod.

This is how mine looks.

[starterman99]

you have #1 & 2 terminals drawn wrong in your picture. #1 should be connected to exciter circuit and only have power when ignition is on. #2 should have battery positive all the time. it can be looped to battery positive stud on back of alternator but would be better connected to the fuse block wire as intended by manufacturer. then you put heavier 10 gauge wire from positive stud on back of alternator to battery positive on solenoid.

[Matt_50]

Yes, my mistake switch 1 and 2. The EZ wire kit came with a plug for the alternator and it is plugged in correctly.

Number one is connected to the white wire labeled " excitor". Number two wire came with a pre crimped on ring terminal. EZ instructions want it looped to the batt stud.

[Matt_50]

The plug is wired like he said to. It is the wire that comes from the batt stud on back of alternator I'm asking about.

He has it set up to where the charging wire goes back to fuse box. I followed different 10si wiring instructions and went from batt stud to battery. Tech support says that works also but I'm wondering why would you have the charge wire go all the way back to fuse box?

[Matt_50]

Someone told me that the EZ kits are based off GM wiring harnesses. Is this how GM did it? Alternator charge wire went back to fuse box? Or did it go to battery?

[Matt_50]

I think I figured it out!

Looking at what the difference between a one wire and 3 wire alternators are.

A one wire alternator is for more basic electrical systems. Charges battery and there's very little extra electrical stuff like lights, fans, ect.

The three wire alternator is better for systems with more electrical add ons. All those components pull on the system and cause voltage differences when different stuff was being used. The three wire can be wired to the main buss to help regulate equal continuous voltage at all times.

Sound right so far?

[Matt_50]

I think I see how wiring alternator batt to battery positive still works.... but does that mean that when multiple electrical components come on, there will be dips in voltage? I added a terminal block on firewall and I feed off of it. A 10 gauge wire is also wired to it and runs to positive side of starter solenoid. There also a wire with a fusible link that runs to fuse box. Another wire runs from the block yo another block on inner fender up front for lights and fan

Should I run my charge wire to the firewall block?

[The Rocknrod]

And dont forget to ground the alt properly. When they say 3 wire it's a four wire.

[gmachinz]

That last drawing shows a configuration that WILL NOT take into account anything meaningful with regards to remote voltage sensing. Trying to shortcut it by looping the sensing feed to the post isnt going to work very well, and then taking it to the battery before the fuse block is not ideal either. Use a common remote +12V junction, take both the post feed and the remote sending feed to that junction. Then run everything that requires power from that post-including the battery charge wire. Its true most of these mass production companies use old GM wiring designs and thats the problem-with todays setups they should be thinking more modern-why they do not idk why.
If its a 1-wire alt you’re using not as much of an issue but there is no good reason to NOT use a properly setup 3-wire alternator anyway imo.

[Matt_50]

That was another question I had. I have the sensing wire looped back to batt stud on back of alternator. The plug came that way from EZ with the ring terminal on it to do that.

Your saying I need to run it to the starter solenoid of the terminal block I added?

[Matt_50]

Here's some pictures. Top left is a red wire that goes to positive side of starter solenoid. It then goes to a terminal block just before the firewall grommet. Between fuse box and that terminal block is a fusible link from the EZ kit. Maybe you can see it, it's black.

Red wire off of alternator currently goes to battery positive. White wire goes to fuse box and the little black wire loops to stud per instructions.


Feeding off the terminal block will be relays for headlights and electric fan and any future stuff.

Should red wire from alternator go to that terminal block instead of Battery? Same for black wire?

[Matt_50]

In my first post I showed how EZ wire wants their kit ran. Except I numbered the alt plug wrong.

I wanted to add a terminal block. Can it be ran like in this drawing?
Keep in mind the " solenoid power wire" is the main power for fuse box.
And the " alt power wire" is the red wire from stud on alternator. Charge wire?

I think I see that I have to cap the alt wire right out of fuse box if I I have the wire ran from block to alternator. If I also had the one from fuse nox onbthe nlock it could pull to much power during loads right?

If the kit is ran exactly like in first post, the charge wire stays constant and only the main power wire needs a fusible link. Am I right?

[firedemon]

I was told that the number 1 just turns the alt on and off with the key usually its a resistor wire or it has a diode to keep the power going towards the alternator if it goes the other way it can make the vehicle keep running . the number 2 tells the alternator what to do either charge more or less depending on what the system needs that's why you dont want the main stud feeding the number 2 try to go to a main distribution point where there is a draw on the system . the main stud can go to the battery or starter depending how you like . and make sure it has a good ground . this explains it much better http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml