My Build Thread (year+) on 71 Jimmy 4x4

[RckyMntnKng]

I found a hose/cable supply shop in town. "Andys Supply".
They do about every kind of hose from 5000psi pressure washing right down to the teflon braided stainless steel.
They recommended going with rubber hose, and I like that look better.

I took my original crap in there, and they took the measurements plus added 6" for the length for the lift, and made all new with the correct ends and fittings.

It took them about 15 minutes, and was $30 per side. Even got new banjo bolts.

I bought like 4' of extra tube and replaced the vent lines on both axles as well.

Monday I will take the rear 14bff lines to them and get that done.

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by RckyMntnKng

I found a hose/cable supply shop in town. "Andys Supply".
They do about every kind of hose from 5000psi pressure washing right down to the teflon braided stainless steel.
They recommended going with rubber hose, and I like that look better.

I took my original crap in there, and they took the measurements plus added 6" for the length for the lift, and made all new with the correct ends and fittings.

It took them about 15 minutes, and was $30 per side. Even got new banjo bolts.

I bought like 4' of extra tube and replaced the vent lines on both axles as well.

Monday I will take the rear 14bff lines to them and get that done.

Thanks for the info., I'll try local

[Burt4x4]

COOL!
Thanks for the pics!

[RckyMntnKng]

Thanks.

Hey Burt or Vt or someone who has done a 14bff swap..... How did you guys get your E-brakes hooked back up?

I hate to just not have an E-brake.

[Burt4x4]

I didn't hook it back up.
I have a line-lock on my front brakes. So if I need to I can lock the brakes. I would not parl overnight with the line-lock set because the hydrolic pressue fades in time.
I also carry a 4"x4" wood block

Someday when I have lots of money I may do the Cady caliper swap...ya right! ahahahaha

[RckyMntnKng]

I Carry a 4x4 block....haha I love that.
So I can just un bolt the existing lines from the rear hubs and call it good?
What is a line lock?

What is the best way to bleed the braking system now? I havnt looked yet but I take it each corner will have an air/bleed screw of some kind? Start with the farthest one and have a helper pump brakes and refill brake fluid as you go?

Oh yes I forgot to ask about the D60 bump stop bolts. Just adjust them to stop the turning before the tire contacts the spring?

[Burt4x4]

I am using the "Lever Lock" you can see it mounted on the left. Basically it holds the line pressure to the front calipers. Press the brakes and then move the lever up. Now you can let go of the brake pedal. The primary reason I have this lever lock is for wheeling. Hill climbs can get a bit scary if you have to stop and start again with a clutch ~ 3 feet are better than two. I can move the lever to release the brakes at the same speed I am letting the clutch out. This keeps my rig from rolling back ( I blew a rear driveline trying to get re-started up a hill before I had my line lock) roll back = carnage!
they make push button type but you can't 'feel' the brakes with that type, on or off with no inbetween.

I removed the rear section of the ebrake and left the primary pull cable intact for future install of a working ebrake.

As for the bump stops you need to make sure the stop hits before your knuckle hits the main part of the axle:

When I set mine I just made sure to crank the streering both ways and adjusted the stops to hit before anything else touches, but no too much to screw with the turning radias..
Hope that makes sence...


Yup, bleading you start with the pass side rear, then driver rear, pass front, driver front.

[RckyMntnKng]

Thanks a lot.

You just set me up for a whole notha weekends worth of work! (play).

Line lock looks really cool for manuals...Wish I had that in High-school. Great burn outs if you wanted...

[RckyMntnKng]

Burt if I ever meet you...Im gonna buy you a beer or 2.
Thanks for all your help. This place rocks

[Burt4x4]

Sweeet! I'll drink any cold beer you have, my wife only likes budlite...

I almost made it up to Idaho this year. My wife and I are prospecting states to move to after the kids finnish HSchool in about 6yrs and Idaho is on our list to check out. We were gonna take a drive up there for spring break but ran outa money so we traveld localy in Cali. oh well next time!
Keep up the good work!
Burt

[RckyMntnKng]

Teaser Pics....I think you know what they are gonna be.
Back almost there. Front more complicated angles and design so saved it
till after the warm up. Got some (4) huge ass 15 ton plus D-rings to go on each corner.

[Burt4x4]

BEEFY!!!!!

[RckyMntnKng]

Crap I let my thread go off the 1st page...guess that means I should work faster!

Bumpers are just finished and gonna look Shaaaweeet when they are attached and rhino-lined on the Jimmy.

The front is strate in the middle section and angles to match the grill on each side. The little stinger is angled forward to match the grill as well.
middle. Its all 3", gonna mount it high and tight and have a winch roller fairlead in the front middle

The rear is just strate. Will post pics when I get them mounted, painted and with the recovery points.

What do you guys think?

[RckyMntnKng]

Couple questions for the experts ;-)

I ordered a pair of solid steel shims to get my driveline angle to match. Unfortunately I welded my spring mounts to the new 14 bolt in the stock location and mounted it before measuring my angles. Long story short im adding 4 degrees into it. That will zero out the difference.

Also I ordered a pair of Add-a-leafs for the rear. It sits level now, without the rear seats mounted, without the cage, without the spare etc. I dont want saggy butt, so these should raise the load rating for the rear as well as add 1.5-2" or so.

I might as well do these 2 projects in conjunction with each other.

Has anyone done this? Do I need to take the spring pack apart? I know I have to pull the bolt, and add a longer one that encompasses the extra length of 1 more spring and block per side. Does the New leaf go in the center of the pack or just on the bottom? It is nearly as long as the leafs near the top of the pack. I was thinking of clamping the springs together and adding the parts while still installed on the truck hangers.

Any advice would be appreciated. - Regards-RMK

[Burt4x4]

Hey Dude!
I have used degree shims before and when I installed mine I used C-clamps to keep the spring pack from seporating when I removed the center bolt. I did this with the springs on the truck and the rearend droped out of the way.
Your add-a-leaf should go on the bottom of your pack.
By the way mine were aluminum and they did crack and spit out ~ I found out the hard way = trail carnage. My ubolts came loose and rounded my spring perches. But hey that forced me to weld on new stronger perches at the proper pinion angle.
So even though you are using steel I would re-torque your U-bolts from time to time

[RckyMntnKng]

Right on thanks amigo.

Dug up the directions on Rough Country website. This set of add-a-leafs is longer to be used in conjunction with already lifted springs. It states to insert them as a pyramid. Make sure the one above it is longer and the one under is shorter.
This means its going to have to be the 2nd spring in the pack, maybe 3rd. Looks like I have to take the whole pack apart.

How hard is it to compress the springs again with C clamps I wonder?

The Shims will be last step before I can lengthen my driveline.

The part im stuck on is that I want to go with a doubler eventually but I want to drive it now. I'd hate to rebuild the driveline 2x. *sigh*

[Burt4x4]

hmmm my first thought is to leave the spring pack on the truck, tear it apart. Cleaned up and ready for re-install use the floor jack to push up the leaves tight then clamp. remove the floor jack and now you can hammer tap the leaves front or rear to line up the hole for the bolt
Drink a beer and think about it, snap some pics for us webwheelers to enjoy


oh and adding a dubler = new drive line lenghts

[RckyMntnKng]

Im going to tackle it (shims + Add-a-leafs) this weekend. Will have pics.

Also going to sand down and paint my tube bumpers and possibly even mount them.

I might as well wait on my doubler before I do the drivelines dang'it....

Still need to install my 2wd steering box so I can do the crossover.

Never ends! j/k love it

[RckyMntnKng]

Weekend work.

Was in the mood to weld, so I went after the bumpers instead of the Shim/springs.

Wire wheeled them down, primered, bed-liner'd them and mounted the front back. Then started on some Nerf bars which are in progress.

Both Bumpers will receive more bracing, skid plating, Roller fairlead, license plate etc.

Need to get some clevis anchor points so I can mount my D-rings, but it will come....

Just layed the Bikini on top to take some measurements for the snaps.

[RckyMntnKng]

profile

[rangerfj40]

Looking good! Are you living in Emmett or Meridian? reason I ask is you have Gem County plates.
Did you used to have a well built Jeep?

[RckyMntnKng]

I live in Meridian. Those Gem plates were the PO's plates. Bought the truck in Emmett.

Yep I used to have a Jeep, sold it about the same time I bought the Jimmy. Decided I neaded more room and something besides a 4 cyl.

How did you know?
Here is my old jeep...

[RckyMntnKng]

Guys,

I switched over to a 2wd steering box so i can run crossover.

I have a 3" body lift and 6" susp lift.

Those of you that have done a crossover may know the input shaft on the steering box takes a different joint to connect with the steering column.

Does anyone remember the part number and where they got it?

[RckyMntnKng]

Solved that above problem with a new steering coupler from Borgeson.
New box for the 2wd was a 13/16" 36 but has couple flat sides and is actually a 31 spline.
-----------------------------------------

Here is another question. Burt please allow me to use your picture for comparison.

My question is about the passenger side spring perch studs.

I had to use like 6 washers in mockup because the thread ended that much higher than where I needed to go to get tight on the spring plate.

Also it is difficult to get the plate square when there is a gap b/w the spring perch and where the studs are.

hard to explain but look at these 2 pics. It seems to be working fine the way ive installed it, but I want it to be correct (safe)

I think I have some sort of extra long studs in mine from someone before me who had a really thick spring pack or shims?

[Burt4x4]

Hay Dude! Happy Monday.
The factory design used bolts that held the spring plate inplace. converting to a stud is considered stronger. I haven't done this my self as my 60 came with the studs you see in my pic. I have a much thicker plate than you too. The gap under the plate is needed to keep the down pressure even with the U bolt side so don't put anything under the plate
I would get something different in there..the stack of washers doesn't look right, I would be a bit nervous running it like that, probly fine for around town drving but nothing more.
.
02c
Burt