Blood Sweat and Tears.. 67 Build Thread

[Possmguts]

I was hopping I would be able to just fix the leaks and clean up the engine and just add some shinny stuff to it but I guess Im gonna have to order some parts for that too. Looks like it may have the wrong Rollers and pushrods at least. Ill tear it down a little more and see what else is hiding in there.

[RRR18]

What heads are those? I see they are centerbolt covers but have traditional small block intake bolts. What is it about the rockers and pushrods that are wrong? I'm probably just missing something.

[Possmguts]

Originally Posted by RRR18

What heads are those? I see they are centerbolt covers but have traditional small block intake bolts. What is it about the rockers and pushrods that are wrong? I'm probably just missing something.

They came on the late L98 Corvettes and on the ZZ3 crate engines. They have the angled spark plugs too. The problem is the rockers are too fat for the center bolt valve cover bolts and are rubbing on them sometimes because the guides are for 3/8" rods instead of the 5/16" rods in it causing the rockers to wonder back and forth on the valves. See how far off center the rocker is on the valve in this pic? No good...

[RRR18]

Are they required to have self aligning rockers or no?

[Possmguts]

Originally Posted by RRR18

Are they required to have self aligning rockers or no?

Dont know... I guess Ill have to try to look it up. I just figured it was the guides being way wider than the pushrods.

[Possmguts]

What is the area for just behind the front shocks and before the front cab mount? The drivers side looks like it has been used but nothing is there now. Also another hole was added for a clutch fork maybe?

[min]

Originally Posted by Possmguts

What is the area for just behind the front shocks and before the front cab mount? The drivers side looks like it has been used but nothing is there now. Also another hole was added for a clutch fork maybe?

that hole is for the e-brake cable.

[Possmguts]

Originally Posted by min

that hole is for the e-brake cable.

Thanks

[texasld]

Looks like this!




There are rods on either side of the truck for the cable routing. Those rods have a big washer that go where that hole is.

[Possmguts]

Originally Posted by texasld

Looks like this!




There are rods on either side of the truck for the cable routing. Those rods have a big washer that go where that hole is.

Boy, I was missing all sorts of stuff... Thanks for that

[RRR18]

E-brake....what's that?
Ha I bagged all my e-brake parts when I bought my truck. Didn't make sense for me to keep it if only half of it was there anyway.

[Possmguts]

Still waiting on the springs but I did get the shock re-location and longer adjustable panhard bar kit installed to see how it fit. Nice heavy brackets and all but the one that bolts to the frame for the bar is gonna get welded, I dont care for the way it bolts up. The placement of the shocks is supposed to combat wheel hop and improve ride... we'll see.

[Possmguts]

Waiting on a quote from the blaster/powder coat guys. Now to just get all the rivets ground off and pull the frame and axle assembly apart. Im pulling all cross members and brackets off and will be remounting them all using grade 8 bolts.

Ive probably scrapped the Corvette suspension idea and will go with something made for the trucks.

I have a friend that had his frame done and it cost him 1200 bucks... But Im not sure he pulled the frame apart or not. I hope mine will cost about the same. His is a square body 4x4 short bed so there will be a few less parts to do on mine. We'll see when they call.

[texasld]

Originally Posted by Possmguts

Waiting on a quote from the blaster/powder coat guys. Now to just get all the rivets ground off and pull the frame and axle assembly apart. Im pulling all cross members and brackets off and will be remounting them all using grade 8 bolts.

Ive probably scrapped the Corvette suspension idea and will go with something made for the trucks.

I have a friend that had his frame done and it cost him 1200 bucks... But Im not sure he pulled the frame apart or not. I hope mine will cost about the same. His is a square body 4x4 short bed so there will be a few less parts to do on mine. We'll see when they call.

If you don't have a real reason to pull the x members out, I don't recommend it. It's a real pain in the ARSE to cut that many rivets out of the frame and you have to do a really good job of getting it put back together to make it all straight and square. The powder guy will be able to do a really great job even with the x members in the frame. If it unbolts, by all means take it out, but if you are cutting rivets, I would leave it in.

[Elliot949]

Originally Posted by texasld

If you don't have a real reason to pull the x members out, I don't recommend it. It's a real pain in the ARSE to cut that many rivets out of the frame and you have to do a really good job of getting it put back together to make it all straight and square. The powder guy will be able to do a really great job even with the x members in the frame. If it unbolts, by all means take it out, but if you are cutting rivets, I would leave it in.

I concur with this... I know a few guys that are very talented that did this and it was pure hell getting it back square even with a computerized frame machine...

[Possmguts]

Originally Posted by texasld

If you don't have a real reason to pull the x members out, I don't recommend it. It's a real pain in the ARSE to cut that many rivets out of the frame and you have to do a really good job of getting it put back together to make it all straight and square. The powder guy will be able to do a really great job even with the x members in the frame. If it unbolts, by all means take it out, but if you are cutting rivets, I would leave it in.

Oh Hell.. I have a screwdriver.. I can fix anything. lol
Maybe Ill rethink that then... along with a few other ideas I had.

So if I replace the center cross member I should be ok by leaving all the smaller ones alone? I at least want to do one I can pass the exhaust through, or pull the original and make the slots for it in that one.

[texasld]

Originally Posted by Possmguts

Oh Hell.. I have a screwdriver.. I can fix anything. lol
Maybe Ill rethink that then... along with a few other ideas I had.

So if I replace the center cross member I should be ok by leaving all the smaller ones alone? I at least want to do one I can pass the exhaust through, or pull the original and make the slots for it in that one.

If you plan on a serious drop, you will have to replace the x member, but if you want to do exhaust, I recommend just drilling out a hole in the crossbar and then welding in a piece of pipe or tube for reinforcement. Buy a hole saw at lowes for 15 or so bucks and go to town. You can tack a small piece in place to hold center bit while you drill. you can see pictures of mine if you look close enough. I used 3 inch first. To small, so I went back with 4.

[Possmguts]

Originally Posted by texasld

If you plan on a serious drop, you will have to replace the x member, but if you want to do exhaust, I recommend just drilling out a hole in the crossbar and then welding in a piece of pipe or tube for reinforcement. Buy a hole saw at lowes for 15 or so bucks and go to town. You can tack a small piece in place to hold center bit while you drill. you can see pictures of mine if you look close enough. I used 3 inch first. To small, so I went back with 4.

Yeah its only going to be a 4.5/5 static drop. Ill look it over and see what I want to do... Since its gonna have some pretty hard HP I may look into something else to help strengthen it up some. Not going too crazy.. like 450 to 500 HP. Probably not during this phase but maybe next winter. Im pushing to have it together enough drive it some this summer to some of the local gathering spots. I should be able to get the frame, brakes, and suspension all finished up and maybe the interior and wiring.... I hope.

[Possmguts]

Originally Posted by Elliot949

I concur with this... I know a few guys that are very talented that did this and it was pure hell getting it back square even with a computerized frame machine...

I think if I built a jig for it to fit in now, if I do it, it should go back together correctly. Carpenter of 20 years should come in handy for that... maybe

[Justin@EntropyRad]

going to be a fun driver

[Possmguts]

So far this weekend I finally pulled the motor and transmission from the frame and I hope to have the frame stripped down and ready to be blasted and powder coated.. I need a bigger garage... or a warmer environment... or both even.

[Possmguts]

Small Update... I gots the patches done on the frame where the PO had cut and torched areas for whatever reason. Now to make the final decision on POR15 or powder coat. This is a fairly low budget build and I really would rather spend the money on parts rather than the powder coating... so Im pretty sure it will be POR15 and paint.

[texasld]

Originally Posted by Possmguts

Small Update... I gots the patches done on the frame where the PO had cut and torched areas for whatever reason. Now to make the final decision on POR15 or powder coat. This is a fairly low budget build and I really would rather spend the money on parts rather than the powder coating... so Im pretty sure it will be POR15 and paint.

Patch work looks good! Powder is a really nice option. I used POR, really tough stuff. It's super picky about prep. Be careful with the foam brush or it will leave bubbles. I learned the hard way.

[Possmguts]

Well, the frame is now coated in 2 coats of the Master Coatings Sealer. Just taking a break for a few hours and going back out for the satin black AG111 top coat with the hardener to finish this part of the restoration up.
Does anyone know anything about what the numbers mean stamped in the rails?

[texasld]

Frame looks awesome man. It's all the up hill slide from here.