Front end torque specs

[Steelydan]

I’m currently putting my front end back together in my 67 c10, I have installed new shafts in the upper and lower control arms and need to know what to torque them too? I have found one forum that says 90 for the upper and 100 for the lower, is this correct? The manual I have says 160 for the top and 260 for the bottom I believe but that seems like over kill? Also can you torque them while already attached to the cross member?

[Steeveedee]

Look around. Some one has posted up .pdf files of the repair manuals, and you could get the information there. You can torque the lowers any time, but the truck should be on the ground with all the weight on it before torquing the UCA bushing nuts. This will leave the rubber part in a neutral position. If you're up in the air and tighten them, they will be stressed by the extra twisting.

[Steelydan]

Thank you, I have found some post about the torque specs just wasn’t sure. The end caps should sit flush with the a-arm correct?

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by Steelydan

Thank you, I have found some post about the torque specs just wasn’t sure. The end caps should sit flush with the a-arm correct?

By "end cap" do you mean the nuts and washers? You will get to a torque value and will see a portion of the neoprene bushing where it extends from the bushing housing to that big washer. The big washer will be about 3/16" from the A-Arm.

[Steelydan]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

By "end cap" do you mean the nuts and washers? You will get to a torque value and will see a portion of the neoprene bushing where it extends from the bushing housing to that big washer. The big washer will be about 3/16" from the A-Arm.

On the lower a-arm...picture attached for reference not my picture. And also can the end caps be tighten down all the way to the a-arm after everything is attached?

[Steeveedee]

You can do the lowers either way, but leave stuff off until you get them tight, because you're going to need the room. The replacement torque is 130 Lb-Ft, and while it is a one-arm operation, it's better to have it on the truck instead of standing on the control arm. It gets pretty wobbly off the truck, having to stand on it. And yes, they tighten into the lower control arm. That interface is where the torque is developed against.

Edit to add- they should be up against the lower control arm before you install the the lower control arm, so that the alignment pin is in the correct position. Final torque is only going to be a small part of a turn.

[Steelydan]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

You can do the lowers either way, but leave stuff off until you get them tight, because you're going to need the room. The replacement torque is 130 Lb-Ft, and while it is a one-arm operation, it's better to have it on the truck instead of standing on the control arm. It gets pretty wobbly off the truck, having to stand on it. And yes, they tighten into the lower control arm. That interface is where the torque is developed against.

Edit to add- they should be up against the lower control arm before you install the the lower control arm, so that the alignment pin is in the correct position. Final torque is only going to be a small part of a turn.

Ok by alignment pin do you mean the the round groove that is towards the front on the shaft? I had tighten both end caps equally before installing and then eye balled the inner distance on both sides and aligned the groove on the the shaft to align with the pin on the cross member. And then I installed it not knowing I needed to have the end caps all the way up against the a-arm. Do I need to drop them and redo it?? I have attached a picture of my Crossmember. Thank you

[Steeveedee]

There is a spec in the manual about a dimension. I'm hazy on the details, so it you have that manual, I'd recommend looking into it for that dimension. I did this a couple of years ago. Looks like you asked the question at the right time, since your suspension is easily accessible. I did mine in the driveway, under the truck. Talk about grease and dirt. The parts were original from 1970! I think that the truck rides a little higher in the front after the removal of it all.

[Steelydan]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

There is a spec in the manual about a dimension. I'm hazy on the details, so it you have that manual, I'd recommend looking into it for that dimension. I did this a couple of years ago. Looks like you asked the question at the right time, since your suspension is easily accessible. I did mine in the driveway, under the truck. Talk about grease and dirt. The parts were original from 1970! I think that the truck rides a little higher in the front after the removal of it all.

So if my specs were right with the end caps how they are could I tighten them while attached? Or would it be best to remove everything and tighten them while off the truck then torque them down when I get it all attached again? Thank you for your time

[Steelydan]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

There is a spec in the manual about a dimension. I'm hazy on the details, so it you have that manual, I'd recommend looking into it for that dimension. I did this a couple of years ago. Looks like you asked the question at the right time, since your suspension is easily accessible. I did mine in the driveway, under the truck. Talk about grease and dirt. The parts were original from 1970! I think that the truck rides a little higher in the front after the removal of it all.

So if my specs were right with the end caps how they are could I tighten them while attached? Or would it be best to remove everything and tighten them while off the truck then torque them down when I get it all attached again? Thank you for your time

[Steelydan]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

There is a spec in the manual about a dimension. I'm hazy on the details, so it you have that manual, I'd recommend looking into it for that dimension. I did this a couple of years ago. Looks like you asked the question at the right time, since your suspension is easily accessible. I did mine in the driveway, under the truck. Talk about grease and dirt. The parts were original from 1970! I think that the truck rides a little higher in the front after the removal of it all.

So if my specs were right with the end caps how they are could I tighten them while attached? Or would it be best to remove everything and tighten them while off the truck then torque them down when I get it all attached again? Thank you for your time