Omodified's 1970 SWB Custom/10

[omodified]

Many thanks to all of you guys for your kind words. After reading a lot of different build threads here, I decided that I wanted to be able to look back when we're done and remember all the little things we went through. It's nice to know you all appreciate reading what I have to say. I am really thankful that this forum is available for us to be as detailed as we like. I am still tryting to catch up to current times. I am getting ready to start writing about the exciting times of August. It may slow down a bit over the next week due to the truck not being in my possession right now. I am taking the evenings to do a special project with a friend at his much larger shop. He has a lift!!!

Thanks for continuing to check in and please check back.

[omodified]

Got some more rainy day parts in from Summit. Uh, it's starting to look like I might need two consecutive days of rain lol. The black engine bay theme is starting to present itself!

The current valve covers are leaking down the side of the block. So, I might as well dress them up when I do the new gaskets.





and the air cleaner HAS to match.



Plugs and wires looked ok, but I would feel better if I knew what I had for sure. Now I will know...

[omodified]

I got hooked up today. We are on the K&N deal at work. Since the truck will use the same air cleaner filter as our race cars, it was no problem for K&N to promo one to me. Guess I'll add it to the rainy day pile.

[gcburdic]

I wish I had a friend with a lift Looking forward to seeing what's up in the air with the truck!!!

[omodified]

So, I finally got a night to update some progress. Been very busy with work and a few hours each night working on the truck. I was suppose to work a double tonight but it didn't happen. So time for some writeups!

I came out to the garage and found some coolant on the floor. It was piled up right underneath the overflow tube that just kind of hangs down behind the bumper. I never really liked it hanging there and I certainly don't want coolant leaking on my garage floor. So, this prompted me to start searching here about overflow tanks. Much to my surprise, these truck didn't even come with them. I started compiling as many examples from here as I could find, trying to come up with some ideas. I knew I wanted to stick with the black theme. So, I decided to go the Corvette route again and now we have matching resevoirs under the hood. No more coolant leaks on the garage floor!





By the way, I had to replace my radiator cap to enable the coolant to return to the radiator once it cools down. It was a $6.00 purchase from AutoZone.


Also, while I was working on the right front, I decided to take advice from member gcburdic and start checking all the grounds. For one, the cable from the negative battery post to the block was corroded and frayed. So, it got replaced. The positive battery cable appeared to be ok, but was a bit corroded at the starter. So, it got replaced. Last, there was this block hanging down from the fender with wires attached to it. I wasn't sure if it was ground wires or something that should have some power going to it. I had taken some pictures of engine bays at a recent car show. Many of them happened to show examples of this block bolted to the inside of the fender. Oh ok, it's a power distribution block. The PO had bypassed this block and wired directly to the battery cable and it didn't look great. So, since I am here I might as well take the time to make it correct and safe!

[Dmnys]

love the truck! a gr8 buy if you ask me, love those gauges. one of many things in my to do list!

[omodified]

OH NO!!!!!!!!!!

Major problem to tell you all about. I was so happy with the radiator overflow project, you can imagine how unhappy I was to find an even bigger puddle of coolant on the garage floor. To my surprise, it looks like it is leaking from the passenger side drip rail on the radiator support. I am now wondering if something wasn't leaking all along and causing the puddle I thought was from the overflow tube. Weird thing is that it wasn't dripping when I discovered the puddle, so it must only be leaking when the system gets pressurized. So, I went to Autozone to rent a radiator pressure pump. Hopefully I can find the leak and it will be an easy fix. I wish! As soon as I got about 15 lbs to it, it busted a hole in the passenger side bottom. Now the thing is leaking when it's not pressurized. The dissapointing thing is the the PO had just installed this thing not long ago. It still had new looking decals on it from the manufacturer. Well, I think it's beyond repair at this point. Time for an upgrade. Here is the replacement. Now we just need time to install it. Come on rainy days!

[omodified]

Got some more rainy day parts in from Summit. Those guys must be starting to like me...I got Summit Bucks!

New transmission gasket and filter...





New short, high flow water pump, powder coated black of course!





New thermostat, 180 degrees.





Last, a new 100 Amp, black powder coated, internally regulated alternator. Time to free up some space on the core support!!!

[omodified]

So, I was sitting around thinking about the days when I used to be able to drive my truck anytime I wanted. I remembered thinking it was weird that as I am driving, and I step on the gas, the thing won't downshift into a passing gear. So, I set out to research the problem. By looking here and few other places, I was able to figure out that I have a TH350 transmission. Then I read about this kickdown cable thing. Make sense to me that it needs adjusted. I read all about the proper way to do so and it seemed fairly straight forward. So, I visit the garage. Trying not to vomit at the dripping sounds from the radiator, I began looking for this kickdown cable. It wasn't where everybody said it would be, next to the carb. So I found a picture of what it looks like at the transmission. Back to the garage and underneath the passenger side. Yikes! Would you believe that the PO cut the stupid cable about 6 inches from where it mounts to the trans? Unreal! At least it explains the passing gear problem I was experiencing. Time to find a replacement. It must have been a sign that I needed to do this project next, because as soon as I logged onto the classifieds section here, there it was! Member dag19 was selling a nice stainless Lokar kickdown cable. So i scooped that up real fast (It's one thing that I have learned here, you have to visit frequently and be super quick in the classifieds section if you want a good deal). Thanks dag19!





Now that I have the new Lokar piece, it was time to replace the old one, or should I say 1/8 of one. I was really worried that by cutting it, it may have caused the little connecting rod to drop down inside the pan. Fortunately, it didn't. It was all still intact and I was able to successfully make the swap. Well, at least on the transmission side. Since I am planning to put this shiny new Edelbrock carb on some day soon, I will just wait to hook up the other end of the kickdown. Here is my old 1/8 of one kickdown cable...

[VA72C10]

Sorry to hear about the issues but some nice parts replacing the old ones!!! Really like the overflow container...I might have to copy you

[dliving69]

Originally Posted by omodified

When I ordered parts from LMC to upgrade the cluster, I wanted to make that shipment worthwhile. So, I had them throw in a few extra goodies. So here, I installed that stuff.

The old dome light was yellow and cracked and the light was burnt out. So I bought this nice chrome one with LED and installed it with a new harness. Now we can read in the dark.





The old mirror was original but the glass was pretty beat up. It was really hard to see out of. So, it got replaced.



When member thelonerife sent me the new fiber optic cable, he was also nice enough to include deluxe washer and headlight knobs. Thanks dude.



Last, the previous owner only had one key to give me and it was not an original. I thought one key was odd because I would swear GM vehicles came with a square ignition key and a round door key. Then I find out that these trucks only came with one square key. However, the key I was given did not work on the door locks. I had no way to secure the truck. So I called the lockmith out. I had him key the door locks different from the ignition. Once I was able to get the correct code for the key, I ordered new original GM keys and hed them copied to work with the new locks. Here they are with the old key and my new owners manual.



Thanks for checking in...much more to come!

Where is the bulb placed at for the fiber optic cable?? Mine is out and Id love to get it replaced, and also how can i replace the bulbs for the gauges?

[omodified]

VA72C10- Let me know if you need info on where to buy the resevoirs from. I would be glad to help out.

dliving69- The fiber optic cable attaches to the back side of the instrument cluster and uses light from inside the cluster. For this reason, you need to make sure your bulb choice is as bright as possible. The bulbs are easist replaced with the cluster removed, but you can do it while it's installed as well. Just reach up under the dash and twist the bulb housings counter clockwise and they will come out. Bulb 194 is what you will need. They are just push/pull. Real easy stuff! Good luck.

[dliving69]

Originally Posted by omodified

VA72C10- Let me know if you need info on where to buy the resevoirs from. I would be glad to help out.

dliving69- The fiber optic cable attaches to the back side of the instrument cluster and uses light from inside the cluster. For this reason, you need to make sure your bulb choice is as bright as possible. The bulbs are easist replaced with the cluster removed, but you can do it while it's installed as well. Just reach up under the dash and twist the bulb housings counter clockwise and they will come out. Bulb 194 is what you will need. They are just push/pull. Real easy stuff! Good luck.

Thank you!

[RCbowtie69]

Just want to say Hey,your truck looking good & you have made alot of progress.Keep up the hard work & pictures of your progress coming.Keep on truckin'

[omodified]

Alright, so the interior is just about finished. Got some new parts in from LMC and Ebay.

Levers...





Indicator...I have been searching for one of these for awhile now. It was the first thing I ruined when I discovered how brittle the silkscreen print is at 40 years old. If you haven't looked for these new, they are quite expensive and somewhat hard to find (for a 1970 3 speed anyways). I got lucky and found this one on Ebay for $20. The seller listed it and said he didn't know what it was for, but it was NOS. Sure was a good find!

[omodified]

Also got a few little parts from LMC to help fill the last order. I have been researching some routing ideas for plug wires with HEI. I wanted to stay as close to stock as possible. So I bought the correct plug wire retainers to help clean up the spaghetti that I currently have going on. Thanks to member Rack Man for the following picture and inspiration...hopefully one day, my stuff can stack up to his!

[omodified]

New belts arrived! A bit wider than what I have currently, but should work just the same.

[omodified]

So, I did some research on the best way to install my new internally regulated alternator. There were a few different ways that I found, but this one seemed to be the best... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...50&postcount=4 For one thing, member fixit-p has solved a ton of electrical here and it is very apparent he knows his stuff. Another thing is, his explanation of this method made the most sense to me ("What this does is it allows the alternator to sense voltage remotely instead of at the back of the alt. This is important because that red wire is connected to the main alternator buss that feeds the cab and battery and is where you will have the biggest voltage drop"). Last thing, this method made for the cleanest install, which is important to me.




Here is the new wiring at the alternator. Butt connectors and heat shrink, a must. Bought a new pigtail from O'Reilly which was a nice finishing touch.




Here is the wiring from what used to be the external regulator. Again, butt connectors and heat shrink. Look at all that room (or dirt )on the core support!




The final product...




Everything works great as I had hoped. Voltage looks awesome and it's charging just as it should with no dash lights coming on. This should be the only way to install these things. Thanks member fixit-p!!!!!

[omodified]

Phase II

A few posts ago, I mentioned that the truck and I were going to visit my friend's house. My friend has a four post lift and is willing to help out with my next project. Looks like my rainy day has finally come!

Fortunately, my friend only lives 10 minutes away, so driving with a leaky radiator shouldn't be too big of a problem. So, I filled the thing up with water, tied up the kickdown cable and was on my way. We made it there with no problems and I backed the truck onto the lift. Time for some engine bay love!

The previous owner told me that the engine was a crate 350 with about 30,000 miles on it. He also told me some other things that turned out to be questionable, so I wasn't too confident in what I might find. The only question I had was whether this was a 190hp or 260hp crate motor. Obviously I am hoping for the latter of the two. We popped open the hood and removed the factory air cleaner. Time to get to work! Look close, cause it's not gonna look like this much longer.

[omodified]

Carb is off. No turning back now. With the leaky mess here, why would I want to do anything but move forward?




Distributor cap is off. It looks a bit used up, so will be replacing.




Distributor is out. Everything looks great here. Finally something I can reuse!

[omodified]

Valve covers and intake manifold are out of here. OK, now I am starting to think that 30,000 miles could be accurate. Look at how clean this thing is inside!

[omodified]

Radiator, shroud, fan and water pump pulley all disengaged. Judging by the looks of the core support, I wonder how long this thing has really been leaking. Oh well, it's history. Should all clean up just fine. A little bit of rust, but I'll deal with that later.










Old parts are stacking up!

[omodified]

Old water pump is officially junked.

[omodified]

After we removed the water pump, we realized that we were basically doing a cam job without actually replacing the camshaft. So, time to use the Summit Bucks! We pushed forward to see exactly what I will need to order.

Rocker arms and push rods disengaged...




Timing cover, harmonic balancer and crank pulley off...




Lifters out...




Timing chain and gears in the pile...




Anybody need a plain Jane stock camshaft?




Once I got down towards the bottom of the block, I realized the fuel pump has seen better days. So, it's getting scrapped too.




So, Summit is sending the following...

-cam and lifter kit, the biggest I could get for stock converter
-valve springs, seals and shims
-timing chain and gear set
-harmonic balancer (the rubber was split on the one I removed)
-fuel pump

[omodified]

So, while I am waiting on the new guts, I took some parts to work and bead blasted them. They should look awesome with some fresh black paint!