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Old 05-10-2002, 10:38 PM   #1
70-K10-292
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Post Torque on pinion nut

What is the torque on my 70 12 bolt rear axle on the pinion nut holding the yoke on ?On my parts one it was around 150ft lbs is this too low ? I thought around 200 is more in line ,even the manuals dont give a torque for the smallest axle.

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1970 K-10 292 Longbed stepside powersteering but manual brakes!Factory step bumper,Deluxe gauges no Tach 4 speed manual 1 out of 464 made with protectoplate intact.Its basic for a farm truck


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Old 05-10-2002, 11:24 PM   #2
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They dont have a tork spec on the nut on the 12 bolts. When you pull the crush sleeve up,you are looking for an inch lb rotating tork on the pinion........about 8-10 inch lbs ,with used bearings(oiled), & 12-20 inch lbs with new bearings.Good luck........69 longhorn.
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Old 05-11-2002, 09:29 AM   #3
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That is with the carrier and ring gear OUT of the housing. I do them kind of like wheel bearings, just tighten as you check fore and aft play. Once down to zero, I usually put another 1/10 of a turn for preload. That's it.

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Old 05-11-2002, 10:33 AM   #4
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Yes, that rotating tork I posted is with the ring & carrier out of the housing. If you are just replacing the seal,you might add .030 shim tween the the crush sleeve & yolk,& pull it up........also a little blue loctite on the nut. Good luck.......69 longhorn.
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Old 05-11-2002, 01:07 PM   #5
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and make sure to be real carfull when you crush that sleeve down, once they finally start to crush, the crush real fast, but it always seems to me that it takes like 13,000 lbs-ft of torque to get them started. and once you go to far, you've gone too far. the only way back is to get a new sleeve and start all over again, or get a bunch of shims and do it that way.

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Old 05-12-2002, 07:40 AM   #6
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So 150 was way too high ? Where is this crush sleeve ? And yes all I did was replace the oil seal,how thick is the shim(spacer) that goes between the seal lip and the housing? The one I took out was spaced at just under a 1/8"

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1970 K-10 292 Longbed stepside powersteering but manual brakes!Factory step bumper,Deluxe gauges no Tach 4 speed manual 1 out of 464 made with protectoplate intact.Its basic for a farm truck


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Old 05-12-2002, 08:22 AM   #7
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Maybe this will give you some useful info. It tells how to do it if you don't have torqe specs. http://www.tecinfo.net/~rsguy2/install.htm

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Old 05-12-2002, 08:44 AM   #8
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150 is WAY too high if you have a used crush sleeve. The sleeve is between the inner and outer pinion bearings and provides preload. Hopefully the 150# didn't distort any of the rollers or bearing races. Loosen it up until you feel a little fore and aft play in the pinion, tighten until it goes away plus a little bit. The GM OVERHAUL manual, not the regular service manual has an indepth section on all of the available diffs and how to set them up. Get the '72 manual as it has the most. 8.2 and 8.5 10 bolts 8 7/8 12 bolt, Dana 44, Dana 60, Eaton 5500, 7000, and 11000, and Corvette rear.
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Old 05-12-2002, 11:32 AM   #9
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This might be a helpful hint. If you are just replcing the seal (and assuming you haven't taken it apart yet), mark the position of the nut before you take it off. Then you just tighten it back to the mark. I used a small center puch to make a mark on the nut, then put a small scratch on the threads at the same point as the nut.

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Old 05-14-2002, 10:10 PM   #10
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How hard is it to get the bearing off to change the crush sleave ?I am experimenting on a 72 12 bolt now before I crucify my 70 more than I already have !I cannot remove the bearing on it does it come off without pressing or a hammer ?

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1970 K-10 292 Longbed stepside powersteering but manual brakes!Factory step bumper,Deluxe gauges no Tach 4 speed manual 1 out of 464 made with protectoplate intact.Its basic for a farm truck


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Old 05-14-2002, 10:56 PM   #11
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The rear pinion bearing is a press fit,the front bearing can be pretty snug. Best bet might be to pull the axles,& drop the carrier& ring out(keep track of cap & shim location). Then you can swat the nose end of the pinion with a lead hammer,but be ready to catch the pinion when it comes loose. The crush sleeve will be in between the front & rear pinion bearings,& it will take some pulling to crush a new sleeve! You just want no slop,+ a little preload(try 1/10 to 1/8 turn after the up/down play is gone),& if you have an impact wrench,you can use that to crush the sleeve.....just go slow,you will have to crush the new sleeve about 3/8 to 1/2",but once it starts,it will go FAST! I usually pick up a couple sleeves when Im into the diff..........just in case. Good luck...........69longhorn.
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Old 05-24-2002, 08:17 AM   #12
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Wow you guys were right about that crush sleeve it took a 3/4"drive breaker bar to crush it.I went slow until I but eliminated all play .I'm glad I made a bar to hold the yoke so I could tighten it.Two crush sleeves from GM $6.24 with tax not too bad and now I have a spare just in case,Not like I am ever going to touch that dam thing again !!

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1970 K-10 292 Longbed stepside powersteering but manual brakes!Factory step bumper,Deluxe gauges no Tach 4 speed manual 1 out of 464 made with protectoplate intact.Its basic for a farm truck


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1970 K-10 292 Longbed stepside (now a stakerack)powersteering ,Factory step bumper,Tow Hooks,Deluxe gauges Tach & Throttle, 4 speed manual 1 out of 464 made with protectoplate intact .
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Old 05-24-2002, 10:59 AM   #13
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Glad it worked out for you OK. Rear axles aren't impossible, bu tit helps to know some of the tricks!
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Old 05-25-2002, 08:27 AM   #14
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Ok now I get a vibration seems to start around 50 mph.What would be the cause of this? First time to drive it over 35 last night so I did not notice it before.I may jack it up later set it on jackstands to see if anything is out of wack I also changed the ubolts and plates under the axle ,but I doubt that is the cause.

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1970 K-10 292 Longbed stepside powersteering but manual brakes!Factory step bumper,Deluxe gauges no Tach 4 speed manual 1 out of 464 made with protectoplate intact.Its basic for a farm truck


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