What did you do to your truck today.The 3rd chapter

[Kelly1966]

Well, today was working on getting the engine ready for paint, (clean, detail, debug ect.) and work on installing the new suspension parts.

[hdrolling]

Brought my old driveshaft in for new u-joints because of a vibration I was having, shop checked it and it turned out to be bent and the previous owner had welded it together poorly and the welds were cracking.
Had the shop build me a new overnight with a little thicker diameter, heading out to install it now.

[oneshotkyle]

Removed engine for a re-seal and repaint, gonna get installed back with th350.
All the suspension dismantled for powder and complete rebuild with caster mod disc conversion and drop spindles

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by hdrolling

Brought my old driveshaft in for new u-joints because of a vibration I was having, shop checked it and it turned out to be bent and the previous owner had welded it together poorly and the welds were cracking.
Had the shop build me a new overnight with a little thicker diameter, heading out to install it now.

I had a local specialist weld a new ''pipe'' on my single piece propshaft for my '68 C/10 Stepside. Kept as many original parts as possible. New u-joints.
Cost me $450 but it was worth it.

Mine got a deep dent when I got T-Boned on the way to the union picnic two years ago. I had a core differential rebuilt, and replaced the trailing arms, but missed the ding in the shaft. The truck would vibrate excessively above 60 MPH. Now it runs smooth.
Still have to see if the frame needs straightening, or its only out of alignment.

Overnight? My guy took about 4 weeks. But he's a one man band, and said his alignment computer burned its chip.

[hdrolling]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

I had a local specialist weld a new ''pipe'' on my single piece propshaft for my '68 C/10 Stepside. Kept as many original parts as possible. New u-joints.
Cost me $450 but it was worth it.

Mine got a deep dent when I got T-Boned on the way to the union picnic two years ago. I had a core differential rebuilt, and replaced the trailing arms, but missed the ding in the shaft. The truck would vibrate excessively above 60 MPH. Now it runs smooth.
Still have to see if the frame needs straightening, or its only out of alignment.

Overnight? My guy took about 4 weeks. But he's a one man band, and said his alignment computer burned its chip.

Yes mine had a slight vibration as well, figured it was a bad ujoint. The shop had it finished same day but they waited until morning so the new paint had time to dry. Trucks running nice and smooth now.

4 weeks is a bit of a wait, I see some of the online builders will get one out in a few days after you send your measurements.
I figured a week for mine, had to have him repeat it when he said I could have it in the morning.

[72c20customcamper]

You like your manifold rare or well done

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by 72c20customcamper

You like your manifold rare or well done

Well done.
When my Mom ordered a new range, I interceded before the appliance store boys could cart off the old Hotpoint. I set it up in the backyard. I had to tie in a 220 line and outlet so I could power it. I baked a new set of Hedman headers after airbrushing on some black ceramic coat from Eastwood. Two hours at 500*. Came out pretty good.
Then I mummy-wrapped the headers with 2'' fiberglass wrap. I had shot the stuff inside as well as out, so I thought it would hold up. Unfortunately, the wrap retained moisture, so one of the downtubes on the drivers side rusted out after only 7 years. [In Arizona.] Then I found out the hard way, Hedmans are lifetime guaranteed, but not if you use mummy wrap.

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

Well done.
When my Mom ordered a new range, I interceded before the appliance store boys could cart off the old Hotpoint. I set it up in the backyard. I had to tie in a 220 line and outlet so I could power it. I baked a new set of Hedman headers after airbrushing on some black ceramic coat from Eastwood. Two hours at 500*. Came out pretty good.
Then I mummy-wrapped the headers with 2'' fiberglass wrap. I had shot the stuff inside as well as out, so I thought it would hold up. Unfortunately, the wrap retained moisture, so one of the downtubes on the drivers side rusted out after only 7 years. [In Arizona.] Then I found out the hard way, Hedmans are lifetime guaranteed, but not if you use mummy wrap.

The wrap is the worst thing for headers . Seen many motorcycles with fairly new exhaust ruined in short order .

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by 72c20customcamper

The wrap is the worst thing for headers . Seen many motorcycles with fairly new exhaust ruined in short order .

Oh well. I was younger and dumber.
It looked cool.
Underhood temperatures kept down.
Exhaust tones were almost like a Cadillac's.

And no one told me it caused corrosion. At least I thought I'd get a bye from the arid climate of Southern Arizona. [I have a set of Clifford headers on my 292 L6 that I have been running since 1978.] Also I thought shooting the insides would make it more corrosion proof.

We live and learn...

[72c20customcamper]

These came this morning . The free Summit shipping is great here most times if I order early the parts come the next day . Decided I didn’t like the original manifolds on the new engine .

[KQQL IT]

Had some re pop M/T center cap stickers made up.

[72c20customcamper]

Easiest header install I’ve ever done . One glitch the rear bolt on number 2 exhaust wouldn’t make the angle to go in . I heated the header and put a tiny dimple and it went right in . Headman offered to replace them under warranty but it was so minor I didn’t go that route . The headers fit perfectly .

['68OrangeSunshine]

After my Hedman headers rusted out, I was careful to order the same part number for the replacement. However ''Progress'' had marched on -- and the Collector/Exhaust junctions were now a new Ball style. Not the 3 bolt sets that press a flat gasket. So I had to sawzall-off the ends and run 7 miles to Midas to get Ball ends welded on my exhaust pipes.
Then I found out a year later my local Hot Rod Shop could have gotten me the old school Hedmans if I bought them there. But I thought I was saving a buck at Jegs.

Anyway, for the old school Collector/Exhaust gaskets, I found the thicker Copper ones were the best. Never burned out.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by 72c20customcamper

Easiest header install I’ve ever done . One glitch the rear bolt on number 2 exhaust wouldn’t make the angle to go in . I heated the header and put a tiny dimple and it went right in . Headman offered to replace them under warranty but it was so minor I didn’t go that route . The headers fit perfectly .

Nice beefy flanges! Those should hold up well.