The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network







Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Go Back   The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network > General Truck Forums > Electrical > Truck Audio

Web 67-72chevytrucks.com


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 02-17-2009, 01:00 AM   #1
Walts_restoration
Real Projects never die
 
Walts_restoration's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Lawrence, kansas
Posts: 1,508
Amp-in up the ol farm truck

This is my frist installation of an amp into a vehicle, and id appreciate your guys help.

The Amp im using is a jl audio e4300, it came with just the amp and the instruction manual. Got it pretty cheap, so im happy with it.



* Class AB 4-Channel Amplifier
* Absolute Symmetry Class AB Circuit
* Differential, Noise Cancelling Input Topology: RCA jack inputs(low-level) and multi-pin jack(high-level)
* On-board crossover: State-variable, 12dB/octave Butterworth with continuously variable cutoff frequency selection from 50-200 Hz. Configurable as Low-Pass or High-Pass
* Preamp Output: Pass-through type
* CEA-2006 Compliant
* RMS Power Rating (14.4V):
o 4 ohms: 70 watts x 4 chan.
o 2 ohms: 110 watts x 4 chan.
o Bridged (4 ohms): 220 watts x 2 chan.
o Bridged (8 ohms): 140 watts x 2 chan.
* RMS Power Rating (12.5V):
o 4 ohms: 45 watts x 4 chan.
o 2 ohms: 75 watts x 4 chan.
o Bridged (4 ohms): 150 watts x 2 chan.
o Bridged (8 ohms): 90 watts x 2 chan.
* Frequency Response: 10 - 25kHz
* Damping Factor: >200 @ 4 Ohms / 50Hz, >100 at 2 Ohms/50Hz
* S/N Ratio: >104 dB referred to rated power(A-weighted, 20Hz-20kHz noise bandwidth)
* Input Range: 200mV - 8V RMS
* Bass EQ: +6dB Fixed Frequency, Fixed 'Q' with port for optional remote bass control
* Slew Rate: +- 22V/us
* Dimensions: 13.8" L x 9.25" W x 2.36" H

from http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...dio+e4300.html







My headunit is an old kenwood krc-3005, it has 4x normal outputs, and 2 rca outputs. (i choose to not cut the dash in this old truck, its my work truck not a toy truck, so i don't think it needs it)





Behind the seat i have two older mtx truck boxes and two older alpine 6x9s. Ive been debating lately to swap out the 6x9s for a set of cheap duals i have laying around and swap the mtxs for two 10 inch subs, but still debating that, if i can make this set thump enough for me ill be happy. (i know i need some sound dampener back there, any cheap suggestions that's easy to remove in 6 months? lol)








the duals i may swap out for, waiting on bigblock73s cab corner brackets, may go alpine type r 6x9s.. who knows right now lol.

So far, what ive determined, however correct or incorrect it may be, is that since i have a 4 channel amp, i need a Y connector to split the single lead from my headunit in two. At walmart (hey its cheap dont hate) they only had the ones that split at the headunit, not the amp, so i ran over to best buy and they had the adapters i needed. Walmarts amp kits are 12ga@180rms or so, and 8ga@400rms. The install kit is 25 bucks for the 8ga, and 15 for the 12ga. It includes 16.5 foot of power lead, 3 or so feet of ground lead, 6 or so feet of preout lead, and a key on lead.



As i read the manual, it stated i needed 4awg-8awg, 8awg being the minimum, so would you guys feel safe running the 8ga instll kit, or would i need to bump it up to their master install kit thing, which is like 1000watts nonrms, which i think would be overkill for this amp. I also need an amp for the main power wire, but thats no biggie.

Second question. Say im running at 45x4x4ohms, would it be okay to use 18ga speaker wire? its what i already have in the truck, and have plenty of, but will upgrade if needed. If i ran just the mtxs at 150x2x4ohms, what gauge of wire would i need?

Since there is no cable input other than rca and highpower, i assume i dont need to run speaker line into the amp? it takes all the audio from the rca cables? If so, can i run the 6x9s off the rear speaker wiring, and just run the mtxs bridged off the amp?

Any advice on how to set up the front controls and knobs, or where to start and how to adjust for better quality?

Last question (for now, ill probably have more) what would you run the main power off of if you didnt want to disturb the factory orignal wiring? I had a buddy who used to install radios tell me the solenoid would be a good place to pull off of with a ring terminal, would you guys fear using this? Im going to ask my brother whos heavily into his car audio about that one, maybe he will help me, doesn't usually thats why im here lol)

Any advice you guys have im willing to hear it, suggestions or otherwise. Im new to the car audio world, 18years young, and would love to be led in the right direction. Thanks guys.

Oh, one more thought, didnt someone make a front speaker bracket for the 73-87 for two fornt speakers? I was thinking about mounting my two 4" pioneers up front, and maybe running two tweets to the A pillars. yes or no on the tweeters?

Thanks again guys. If you need clarification lemme know, ill try to describe what im asking to the best of my knowledge.
__________________
Ill put it this way, ive got a few lawn ornaments

My name tag says Ryan

KansasTwister On other forums

Last edited by Walts_restoration; 02-17-2009 at 01:02 AM.
Walts_restoration is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2009, 01:45 AM   #2
Walts_restoration
Real Projects never die
 
Walts_restoration's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Lawrence, kansas
Posts: 1,508
Re: Amp-in up the ol farm truck

Im just reading through the manual now, trying to understand it a little better. Amps are confusing since im new to em lol.



I believe thats the center bracket i was talking about, anybody know who made it? Shouldnt be too had to make. Picked up some 1/4 mod for the occasion,. also have some other type of wood i was gonna try out.
__________________
Ill put it this way, ive got a few lawn ornaments

My name tag says Ryan

KansasTwister On other forums

Last edited by Walts_restoration; 02-17-2009 at 01:54 AM.
Walts_restoration is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2009, 06:04 AM   #3
AceX
>130dB Moderator
 
AceX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 2,131
Re: Amp-in up the ol farm truck

You'll be fine with 8ga wire. Realistically, that amp won't pull enough current to require that large of a piece of wire for power and ground. Take power from the battery, and place the fuse no more than 12" from the terminal connection. Try and keep the fuse as close to the terminal as possible. You can use a ring terminal to make the main connection.

The "remote" wire should be spliced into the acc. wire (in the column) or fuse.

For speakers, I generally like to use 16/14 for speakers and 10/12 for subs. It just depends on the power I'm running. I recommend using 14ga on the speakers and 12 on the sub. No particular reason one way or the other, that's just how I roll.

As far as wiring the speakers, the sub(s) will HAVE to run off the rear channels, and nothing else should be run with them. Run the 6x9's and dash speakers off the front channels @ 2ohm.
__________________
Living Life @ 130dB
LED Tail Light Conversion; How-to

Friend. Father. Brother.
RIP El Jay


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CLICK HERE and for less than $0.07 a day, you too can help support and build a better forum.
AceX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2009, 12:54 PM   #4
Walts_restoration
Real Projects never die
 
Walts_restoration's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Lawrence, kansas
Posts: 1,508
Re: Amp-in up the ol farm truck

Quote:
Originally Posted by AceX View Post
You'll be fine with 8ga wire. Realistically, that amp won't pull enough current to require that large of a piece of wire for power and ground. Take power from the battery, and place the fuse no more than 12" from the terminal connection. Try and keep the fuse as close to the terminal as possible. You can use a ring terminal to make the main connection.

The "remote" wire should be spliced into the acc. wire (in the column) or fuse.

For speakers, I generally like to use 16/14 for speakers and 10/12 for subs. It just depends on the power I'm running. I recommend using 14ga on the speakers and 12 on the sub. No particular reason one way or the other, that's just how I roll.

As far as wiring the speakers, the sub(s) will HAVE to run off the rear channels, and nothing else should be run with them. Run the 6x9's and dash speakers off the front channels @ 2ohm.
Ring terminal to the positive side of the battery? its a stock side post battery, all original wiring. I would like to avoid cutting or modifying the factory connections if possible.

Ive been running 18ga on all my speakers just because its what you find easier, that should be fine for straight off the head unit right? Then 14ga for 45 and 12 for 150 bridged?

My headunit does have a remote turn on lead, so no worries there.
__________________
Ill put it this way, ive got a few lawn ornaments

My name tag says Ryan

KansasTwister On other forums
Walts_restoration is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2009, 06:04 PM   #5
AceX
>130dB Moderator
 
AceX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 2,131
Re: Amp-in up the ol farm truck

Whatever you can use to establish a solid connection to the positive side of the battery is fine, just so long as it is the battery that you are connecting to.

I know 18ga is easy to find, but I think it's just too small... I would up it to 16 at the very least.
__________________
Living Life @ 130dB
LED Tail Light Conversion; How-to

Friend. Father. Brother.
RIP El Jay


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CLICK HERE and for less than $0.07 a day, you too can help support and build a better forum.
AceX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2009, 06:25 PM   #6
Walts_restoration
Real Projects never die
 
Walts_restoration's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Lawrence, kansas
Posts: 1,508
Re: Amp-in up the ol farm truck

You said that i will have to run them off the rear channels, all i got with the amp was the manual, i didnt get the little adapter for the high level inputs, so if your saying i must run the rears but all i have is the rcas to be able to connect the 2.

You said connecting off the battery, so i assume you would suggest not running it off the solenoid?

Ill probably leave the speaker wiring off the head unit alone, but i will get 14ga or bigger in the future, and run the amp to speaker wiring with 12.
__________________
Ill put it this way, ive got a few lawn ornaments

My name tag says Ryan

KansasTwister On other forums
Walts_restoration is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:19 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2020 67-72chevytrucks.com