Over 25 Years Later, Finally My 71 C-10 Truck Build - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

**Palf70Step** · 07-23-2008, 08:32 PM

Love the history of you and your truck. Can't wait to see it progress.

Wootdog · 07-23-2008, 09:05 PM

It's good to see a truck stay in the family for that long. Good progress.
Kerry

hgs_notes · 07-23-2008, 11:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 68 Stepside

By all means, keep those turbine wheels when you get it all done, those are classic.

You know, I see people knock'em routinely, but I've always liked them for a street truck. They kinda go with anything, like a good old 5 spoke.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Palf70Step

Love the history of you and your truck. Can't wait to see it progress.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wootdog

It's good to see a truck stay in the family for that long. Good progress.
Kerry

Thanks, I think back to all the times when money was tight and the truck was sitting, not being used, thinking about selling. You think to yourself, I can get another one, or something cooler or in better shape to start with, etc. I'm glad I kept it. There's history there and it means something to me and my family that another car just doesn't have. I need to make it nice again.

hgs_notes · 07-28-2008, 07:56 PM

Just ordered some of what I'll need once work starts getting done. New door seals, window seals/felts, windshield and rear window gaskets, door sill plates & a cab corner. Just need to wait for the brown truck.

I need to get out to the junkyard to get a dash wiring harness also. Mine works, but I've converted from manual to auto, idiot lights to gages, plus my own wiring disasters, so I need the correct harness. I'm pretty sure I know where to get it locally.

It's going to be great to get rolling on this. It will look fantastic and even my daughter will be willing to be seen in it, but I'm really hesitant to start tearing it apart. You know what I mean? It drives. It looks ok, I lived with it this long like it is. What if I tear it apart and end up like so many here and it sits for years? God, I can't stand the idea of that happening. Just shoot me now if it goes that way. But now that the parts are ordered or piling up. Exciting and scary at the same time.

**Dieselwrencher** · 08-01-2008, 04:14 PM

Good luck with your truck. I know what you mean about not wanting to tear a complete truck apart. It is so much work getting them back together if you don't have a big area or a lot of time or all of the above.

hgs_notes · 08-01-2008, 06:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Good luck with your truck. I know what you mean about not wanting to tear a complete truck apart. It is so much work getting them back together if you don't have a big area or a lot of time or all of the above.

Thanks.

I got part of my ordered parts today. Still waiting for the cab corner. Went to the local junkyard the other day, and no luck with the harness. I got another couple yards I can check yet. Might have found a good drivers side door though.

hgs_notes · 09-02-2008, 09:17 AM

I decided to get the cab unloaded into my garage, and see what I could do. I was a little surprised how light it was. We used an engine hoist or a tractor dump bucket loading it, but I unloaded by myself manually. It slid out of the bed, set one side down, then tipped it up and had the truck roll forward a bit and set the other side down. No problem.

I have the cab corner and all the new rubber on hand, working on getting a tunnel hump patch so I can have a low hump in it. I think I found an underdash harness for an automatic and gages truck. I will need new heater vent hoses yet. And I'll probably order a new gage bezel that's nice and shiny.

It was a manual tranny cab, I have an auto, so I got the clutch pedal out. I found one more spot of putty and got that cleaned out. Started wire wheeling the gutter grout stuff out, it's all dried out and cracked. There were a couple body mount rubbers on it that I needed a sledge to pound the bolts through, no damage underneath. I cleaned those up with the wire wheel and primered. I got the kick panel vents cleaned out, yucky stuff, but the metal is good.

Then there was the sand from the blasting. It was everywhere. I concentrated on the kick panel area and the cab floor supports, rockers, etc. The cab is laying on it's back side for now, so I'll blow out the area below the rear window when it's upright again.

After really looking this thing over close, I'm fairly certain it is all original. There are no weld repair joints, looks like original spot welds on everything. Other than the rusty floor board and one cab corner it's in very nice shape. I looked down through the inside of the rockers and there is just a start of surface rust on one side. Definitely a good foundation to start with. I think I can get a small wire brush down there on a rod and clean it up some, then spray some rust preventer or wax in it.

Of course there are pics:

hgs_notes · 11-29-2008, 01:03 AM

Can you believe that I've been off work for a week and have only a couple hours here and there to work in the garage. It's insane. Anyway, I got the floor pans installed today. The outside temp got into the 40's and with my trusty propane bullet heater, I was able to get the garage warm enough to work the adhesive.

It actually got to almost 80 in there. I was a little short on the adhesive, which really sucks when you just buy one tube and the store is a 20 minute drive, and it's probably closed. I was able to spread it around enough though. I think.

I had the pans fitted in as best I could. I scribed an edge around to know where I had to clean off the paint. Took them out and used a wire wheel on the angle grinder to clean all the surfaces where the edhesive goes.

Then lay a bead of glue down, spread it with a brush, set the pan in place and clamp/screw/rivit it in place. It looks good, but I'm in no hurry to pull out the screws. I let the heater go for a couple hours after I put the glue down. I'll have to check iot out tomorrow to see if it set up properly. If it's still tacky, I start up the heater again and maybe use the heat gun. The instructions say you can cure it in an hour at 160F.

merlin3 · 01-31-2014, 06:41 AM

i know it is a old tread but i am interested in the damage on the drivers firewall and back of cab.was the truck in a accident and how did your panels fit? looks to me like during the collision the hood hit the firewall and the bed hit the back of cab.

hgs_notes · 01-31-2014, 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by merlin3

i know it is a old tread but i am interested in the damage on the drivers firewall and back of cab.was the truck in a accident and how did your panels fit? looks to me like during the collision the hood hit the firewall and the bed hit the back of cab.

Your guess is as good as mine about any accidents it may have been in. The doors and fenders fit pretty well, as did the cowl panel. The only door issue I really had was top to bottom on the driver side, which was my fault. I re-skinned the door and the new skin wasn't pushed high enough upwards, making the door a smidge taller. And my door window frame needed some heavy persuasion. But my truck I think had been in a roll-over before my grandpa bought it and they replaced the whole back half of the cab. My doors never fit even close in the original cab. The replacement cab was far better then my original.

I woke up with an idea for my front shock mounts. I will post it up if it will work. If it doesn't, forget you ever read that statement.

hgs_notes · 01-31-2014, 08:04 PM

This isn't exactly what I was thinking, but when I started looking through my scrap metal I found something else that I think will just add strength. And it's what was available from the scrap metal.

I'm starting with a 7" long chunk of I beam.

I cut it in half in my band saw. Then cut half an "I" off each one.

It just happens to fit in this area...

As of right now I'm just thinking simple and strong. This will be totally over built for the task, but again, it's what I had available. Something like this is where I'm going, but I will see how things fit up once I get the I beams bolted to the frame. I'm thinking of getting rid of the bump for the original shock mount so this will be able to go forward a bit more. I just don't know yet if that's needed.

hgs_notes · 02-01-2014, 07:14 PM

Looks like my design will work out just fine.

Full droop...

Ride height...

Tacked the tabs on. I notched it so I could slide if forward some..

With shock...

In place...

Just need to weld it out, drill holes, paint and repeat for the other side. Pretty simple set up though.

07-23-2008, 08:32 PM	#1
Palf70Step State of Confusion! Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Gulfport, MS USA Posts: 46,672	Re: Over 25 Years Later, Finally My 71 C-10 Truck Build Love the history of you and your truck. Can't wait to see it progress. __________________ Bill 1970 Chevy Custom/10 LWB Fleetside 2010 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner SR5 Double Cab - DD Member of Louisiana Classic Truck Club (LCTC) Bill's Gallery Life isn't tied with a bow, but it's still a gift. Live simply. Love generously. Care deeply. Speak kindly. Leave the rest to God!

07-23-2008, 09:05 PM	#2
Wootdog Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Virginia Beach, Va, USA Posts: 1,672	Re: Over 25 Years Later, Finally My 71 C-10 Truck Build It's good to see a truck stay in the family for that long. Good progress. Kerry __________________ 1969 Chevelle 1990 IROC Z Convertible 2002 Silverado LT

07-28-2008, 07:56 PM	#4
hgs_notes GEARHEAD Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: MN Posts: 6,112	Re: Over 25 Years Later, Finally My 71 C-10 Truck Build Just ordered some of what I'll need once work starts getting done. New door seals, window seals/felts, windshield and rear window gaskets, door sill plates & a cab corner. Just need to wait for the brown truck. I need to get out to the junkyard to get a dash wiring harness also. Mine works, but I've converted from manual to auto, idiot lights to gages, plus my own wiring disasters, so I need the correct harness. I'm pretty sure I know where to get it locally. It's going to be great to get rolling on this. It will look fantastic and even my daughter will be willing to be seen in it, but I'm really hesitant to start tearing it apart. You know what I mean? It drives. It looks ok, I lived with it this long like it is. What if I tear it apart and end up like so many here and it sits for years? God, I can't stand the idea of that happening. Just shoot me now if it goes that way. But now that the parts are ordered or piling up. Exciting and scary at the same time. __________________ If no one knows what you're doing, they can't tell you you're doing it wrong HG's Dream Car Build - Shelby Cobra Kit Build your own adjustable track bar 71 Long Fleet C/10 72 Jimmy 4x4 (Junkyard Jimmy) HG's Plow Truck '78 K35 Dually Bigass Farm Truck HG's thread of miscellaneous stuff Last edited by hgs_notes; 05-27-2010 at 07:39 PM.

08-01-2008, 04:14 PM	#5
Dieselwrencher 6>8 Plugless........ Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Prairie City, Ia Posts: 17,138	Re: Over 25 Years Later, Finally My 71 C-10 Truck Build Good luck with your truck. I know what you mean about not wanting to tear a complete truck apart. It is so much work getting them back together if you don't have a big area or a lot of time or all of the above.

09-02-2008, 09:17 AM	#7
hgs_notes GEARHEAD Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: MN Posts: 6,112	Re: Over 25 Years Later, Finally My 71 C-10 Truck Build I decided to get the cab unloaded into my garage, and see what I could do. I was a little surprised how light it was. We used an engine hoist or a tractor dump bucket loading it, but I unloaded by myself manually. It slid out of the bed, set one side down, then tipped it up and had the truck roll forward a bit and set the other side down. No problem. I have the cab corner and all the new rubber on hand, working on getting a tunnel hump patch so I can have a low hump in it. I think I found an underdash harness for an automatic and gages truck. I will need new heater vent hoses yet. And I'll probably order a new gage bezel that's nice and shiny. It was a manual tranny cab, I have an auto, so I got the clutch pedal out. I found one more spot of putty and got that cleaned out. Started wire wheeling the gutter grout stuff out, it's all dried out and cracked. There were a couple body mount rubbers on it that I needed a sledge to pound the bolts through, no damage underneath. I cleaned those up with the wire wheel and primered. I got the kick panel vents cleaned out, yucky stuff, but the metal is good. Then there was the sand from the blasting. It was everywhere. I concentrated on the kick panel area and the cab floor supports, rockers, etc. The cab is laying on it's back side for now, so I'll blow out the area below the rear window when it's upright again. After really looking this thing over close, I'm fairly certain it is all original. There are no weld repair joints, looks like original spot welds on everything. Other than the rusty floor board and one cab corner it's in very nice shape. I looked down through the inside of the rockers and there is just a start of surface rust on one side. Definitely a good foundation to start with. I think I can get a small wire brush down there on a rod and clean it up some, then spray some rust preventer or wax in it. Of course there are pics: __________________ If no one knows what you're doing, they can't tell you you're doing it wrong HG's Dream Car Build - Shelby Cobra Kit Build your own adjustable track bar 71 Long Fleet C/10 72 Jimmy 4x4 (Junkyard Jimmy) HG's Plow Truck '78 K35 Dually Bigass Farm Truck HG's thread of miscellaneous stuff Last edited by hgs_notes; 05-27-2010 at 07:40 PM.

11-29-2008, 01:03 AM	#8
hgs_notes GEARHEAD Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: MN Posts: 6,112	Re: Over 25 Years Later, Finally My 71 C-10 Truck Build Can you believe that I've been off work for a week and have only a couple hours here and there to work in the garage. It's insane. Anyway, I got the floor pans installed today. The outside temp got into the 40's and with my trusty propane bullet heater, I was able to get the garage warm enough to work the adhesive. It actually got to almost 80 in there. I was a little short on the adhesive, which really sucks when you just buy one tube and the store is a 20 minute drive, and it's probably closed. I was able to spread it around enough though. I think. I had the pans fitted in as best I could. I scribed an edge around to know where I had to clean off the paint. Took them out and used a wire wheel on the angle grinder to clean all the surfaces where the edhesive goes. Then lay a bead of glue down, spread it with a brush, set the pan in place and clamp/screw/rivit it in place. It looks good, but I'm in no hurry to pull out the screws. I let the heater go for a couple hours after I put the glue down. I'll have to check iot out tomorrow to see if it set up properly. If it's still tacky, I start up the heater again and maybe use the heat gun. The instructions say you can cure it in an hour at 160F. __________________ If no one knows what you're doing, they can't tell you you're doing it wrong HG's Dream Car Build - Shelby Cobra Kit Build your own adjustable track bar 71 Long Fleet C/10 72 Jimmy 4x4 (Junkyard Jimmy) HG's Plow Truck '78 K35 Dually Bigass Farm Truck HG's thread of miscellaneous stuff

01-31-2014, 06:41 AM	#9
merlin3 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: nantucket,ma Posts: 230	Re: Over 25 Years Later, Finally My 71 C-10 Truck Build i know it is a old tread but i am interested in the damage on the drivers firewall and back of cab.was the truck in a accident and how did your panels fit? looks to me like during the collision the hood hit the firewall and the bed hit the back of cab.

01-31-2014, 08:04 PM	#11
hgs_notes GEARHEAD Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: MN Posts: 6,112	Re: Over 25 Years Later, Finally My 71 C-10 Truck Build This isn't exactly what I was thinking, but when I started looking through my scrap metal I found something else that I think will just add strength. And it's what was available from the scrap metal. I'm starting with a 7" long chunk of I beam. I cut it in half in my band saw. Then cut half an "I" off each one. It just happens to fit in this area... As of right now I'm just thinking simple and strong. This will be totally over built for the task, but again, it's what I had available. Something like this is where I'm going, but I will see how things fit up once I get the I beams bolted to the frame. I'm thinking of getting rid of the bump for the original shock mount so this will be able to go forward a bit more. I just don't know yet if that's needed. __________________ If no one knows what you're doing, they can't tell you you're doing it wrong HG's Dream Car Build - Shelby Cobra Kit Build your own adjustable track bar 71 Long Fleet C/10 72 Jimmy 4x4 (Junkyard Jimmy) HG's Plow Truck '78 K35 Dually Bigass Farm Truck HG's thread of miscellaneous stuff

02-01-2014, 07:14 PM	#12
hgs_notes GEARHEAD Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: MN Posts: 6,112	Re: Over 25 Years Later, Finally My 71 C-10 Truck Build Looks like my design will work out just fine. Full droop... Ride height... Tacked the tabs on. I notched it so I could slide if forward some.. With shock... In place... Just need to weld it out, drill holes, paint and repeat for the other side. Pretty simple set up though. __________________ If no one knows what you're doing, they can't tell you you're doing it wrong HG's Dream Car Build - Shelby Cobra Kit Build your own adjustable track bar 71 Long Fleet C/10 72 Jimmy 4x4 (Junkyard Jimmy) HG's Plow Truck '78 K35 Dually Bigass Farm Truck HG's thread of miscellaneous stuff



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