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Old 07-25-2014, 11:42 PM   #1
skymangs
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Re: S10 Swap how to

Someone asked about cutting the inner fenders. First I cut at the bottom wind line, front to rear (pic 1). Then I hold each inner up against the cab, and mark the area for the upper A frame. Then I cut that area up to the second wind line. That's it, this will clear the frame and A frames with both versions of my brackets.

Once it's all fit, I'll take a flap disk, and clean up my wobbly plasma cut lines.
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Old 07-30-2014, 11:15 PM   #2
skymangs
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Re: S10 Swap how to

Let's move on to running board brackets. I start with 1.5" 11ga. square tube. I cut the front bracket to 10 inches. the rear 2 are 9.5" long (see attached PDF)

Once the lower brackets are cut, measure 1/2" in, centered, mark for your hole. Then measure 4 3/8" and mark center. These will be the holes for your running boards. I drill all the way through with a 9/32" bit (pic 1), then open them up to 1/4". Finally I use a 1" holesaw on the bottom side for nut/socket clearance (pic 2). Pic 3 shows them bolted to the bottom of the running board
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Old 07-30-2014, 11:23 PM   #3
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Re: S10 Swap how to

Next I mock the running board up, bolting the rear to the fender, and blocking below my new lower brackets. It's important to be sure that your board is on the same plane as your cab floor and bed rail! Also, check the gap between the splash guard and the back of the cab. should be about 3/8". The running board should be parallel to the bottom of the door from front to rear as well.

Once it's mocked up, I verify my templates fit between the lower bracket and the frame (pic 2 is of the templates). If this is your first build, you'll have to make them. I used strips of 1.5" poster board, then notched the lower end, and angled the upper end to match my frame.

Once your templates are made, trace them onto 1.5" square tube, cut them out, and fit them to the mocked up running board. I tack the lower side, then pull the board off to seam weld the joint (pic 3). Then re-mock up your running board, double check all the critical fitment areas, and weld your angled brackets to the frame. Finished product should look like pic 4. I just finished running boards on this truck yesterday, it's about a 4 hour process.

I buy a 20ft stick of 11ga. 1.5" steel, it's just right for 2 49.5" bed cross sills, and has enough left to finish the running boards as well. Cheers!
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