Porterbuilt extreme Dropmember and 2 piece drive shaft question???

[Hart_Rod]

I posted some pictures on my instagram...http://instagram.com/hart_rod

[lolife99]

For those that don't go there,...

[Hart_Rod]

Thanks Keith! Forgot to mention, I'm going to have to build a 2.875 spacer for the carrier bearing.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

Thanks Keith! Forgot to mention, I'm going to have to build a 2.875 spacer for the carrier bearing.

Will that allow the front driveshaft to clear the trailing arm crossmember hoop?
I see the newest version of the trailing arm crossmember has the carrier bearing pad on the front side of the crossmember.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Will that allow the front driveshaft to clear the trailing arm crossmember hoop?
I see the newest version of the trailing arm crossmember has the carrier bearing pad on the front side of the crossmember.

Yeah, I have about 3/16th clearance with a 3.5" driveshaft. Do you have pictures of the new setup?

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

Yeah, I have about 3/16th clearance with a 3.5" driveshaft. Do you have pictures of the new setup?

I will let Nate post his pics.
It's basically like your newest trans crossmember.
A bolt-in frame bracket on each side,... with a flush mount trailing arm crossmember.
The side brackets have a series of holes that allow you to move the trailing arm crossmember forward (stepside trucks) or rearward (60-66 trucks),... etc.
This still may be in the design process.

This eliminate the issue with tube diameter crossing through the trailing arm crossmember.
Only the small slip yoke will be through the crossmember.
But the front driveshaft will be very short on swb trucks.

I just recieved an extreme Dropmember rear set-up.
My crossmember is like the standard trailing arm crossmember (frame ends),... but the carrier bearing mount is on the front side.

[Bennett68C10]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

Thanks Keith! Forgot to mention, I'm going to have to build a 2.875 spacer for the carrier bearing.

Yeah we figured out today that we need to add another 1/2" to the 2" spacer I started with. If you haven't set the cab on yet just be careful how tall your spacer is. With a 3" spacer the carrier bearing hits the cab floor. Your going to be really close to the floor.

[David121582]

If that is a 700r4 can you provide the specs for your driveshaft so that I can provide my driveshaft guy a starting point, thanks

[David121582]

Sorry just saw its a 4l60 not sure if the specs would help on a 700r4 build.

[Oldtruckfanatic]

They're the same thing. The dimensions will be the same.

[lolife99]

Just remember that there are MANY variables in these driveshaft set ups.
Truck year.
Dropmember version: mild, touring, or extreme.
Engine and mounts
Trans
Yoke length
Style of carrier bearing.
Carrier bearing spacer height.
Driveshaft diameter
Trans crossmember height in frame
Trailing arm or 4-link rear suspension
Rearend type: 12- bolt, 9-inch etc.

Taking someone else's dimensions to build your driveshaft could prove a very costly mistake.

[Bennett68C10]

Very well said Keith, if you take my setup and Robs setup they are completely different and subsequently have yielded completely different results. He is running an LS/4L60E combo with Extreme Dropmembers front and rear, I'm running a 454/TH400 combo with touring dropmember front and extreme rear. We both have to run different height bearing spacers for the driveline to work correctly.

[David121582]

Im just looking at it for a starting point for measurements and would never go out and build one off of someone elses measurements. I am running a very similar setup all around and figured his might be close to what I need.

[Rochlow]

I spoke with Mitch Henderson the other day about what he uses for driveshafts. He told me that they start with a 2wd longbed or 3/4 ton long bed 2-piece driveshaft. They have the front shaft cut down to fit, have new u-joints and carrier bearing installed. then have it balanced.

I'm in the process of purchasing a used drive shaft and I'm going to pursue this method.

[PBFAB.COM]

Hey guys! I am working on an in depth write up that helps explain the best way to set-up the two-piece drive-shaft. Unfortunately, there isn't a "one size fits all" with all the different variables.... but the theory behind it is all the same.

Until I finish the write up, feel free to send us an email with any questions regarding the set-up process and I will be happy to reply and even set up a phone call if necessary.

Nate

[Rochlow]

I found this online also. Not sure if it will help?

http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/...oke%202009.JPG

[Bennett68C10]

Originally Posted by Rochlow

I spoke with Mitch Henderson the other day about what he uses for driveshafts. He told me that they start with a 2wd longbed or 3/4 ton long bed 2-piece driveshaft. They have the front shaft cut down to fit, have new u-joints and carrier bearing installed. then have it balanced.

I'm in the process of purchasing a used drive shaft and I'm going to pursue this method.

This is exactly what I did with mine

[cook2199]

great info HART_ROD, started following you on instagram as well. I am just getting started on my 68 swb.

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by Rochlow

I found this online also. Not sure if it will help?

http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/...oke%202009.JPG

That is the measurement chart or diagram that most drive-shaft shops will send or ask to be filled out.

Here's something to keep in mind.... take a carrier bearing center to rear pinion at ride height, full dump, and full lift. Give these measurements to the driveline shop so they don't build it too long or too short (learned this the hard way).

Nate

[jmedero]

Will the CPP drive shaft with slip yolk help out with the different measurements in full dump, ride height and all the way up?

[PBFAB.COM]

A slip yolk is necessary for sure, regardless of wether its a CPP brand or other. The measurements at full dump and full lift are to help get the shaft built just right as it will plunge and grow through all the travel.

When having a shaft built by any shop it's best to provide them with all the info possible to avoid any questions, concerns, or finger pointing after the fact.

Nate

[jmedero]

Cool makes sense. Thanks man. Happy new year Nate.